Large rubber washer in 9A tailstock?

dbb-the-bruce

Dave
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The continuing saga of my 9A clean up. Just about wrapped up everything to the right of the headstock. Just the tail stock remains.
On disassembly of the tail stock, I found the large very chewed up rubber washer kind of jammed in on the back end of the quill / hole after removing the handle.

Based on descriptions I've seen, it does not appear to be an original part. The small rubber stop washer is still intact around the lead screw shaft (visible in the picture). I'm guessing that someone put the large one in from the front side without removing the handle and it served the same (sort of) purpose of being a bumper when the quill is fully pulled back/in.

What are your thoughts? have other people found this part in a 9 tailstock? Do I need to add to the "bumper" that's still around the lead screw shaft? The existing (expected) one is pretty cracked and while probably still functional, may not be doing the full job.

IMG_4354.png

Right now I'm planing on just putting it back together as is without a replacement large washer that shouldn't(?) be there.
Thoughts, experiences and suggestions please.

Not a big deal if I have to take this apart again to fix/improve it but would like to get back to a running lathe today.
Thanks in advance.
-Dave
 
No such thing in my 9A tail stock (1949 mfg. date).
 
Was it possible that someone used it as a taper eject button?
In any case, if it was not on the parts list and everything else is, I would think it is not needed. Just leave it out.
 
+2 on above. I have an old Craftsman(101.27440), so it will be a little different. But the concept of a withdrawal buffer sounds plausable. I have had to modify several MT-2 devices so they will eject. Maybe this is a similar solution. I would not replace it, yet, but you might want it later.

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I have no such thing in my 9A tailstock. (1947). I've got a suspicion though. (No more and no less). When I run the tailstock spindle all the way in, if it bottoms at any speed except "delicate", it locks down hard. You've got to really yarn on it to get it unstuck. I bet that rubber washer was designed (in the factory or in the field) to give a little "feel" when it's all the way in.

I doubt it's for ejection purposes, The back of the MT2 "thing" that's installed would be hitting the opposite end of the screw. That looks, based on the size of the screw in the picture, to be about tailstock spindle diameter.

I dunno, just speculating. But the way mine locks down about half an inch of handwheel rotation after I release my favorite center, I'm thinking I might try to stick a good chunky o-ring in there that fits snug in the bore. Gotta think that through first, make sure I'm not cutting off any oil migration there, but I think it falls right between the two oil holes...

I dunno.... Speculation only.
 
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I'm going with @Jake M's answer. I've actually had spun the handle to retract and jammed it up pretty bad. I think someone was trying to prevent that by putting and extra washer in. The factory one (still there in the picture) serves exactly this purpose but it's pretty damn subtile with the condition of that washer on my tail stock. That bumper washer has a conical bevel on the end that would jam into the back of the quill(? ram?).

It wold require taking the handle off (knocking out a taper pin) and then probably also tapping the shaft out of the bearing. I'm going to live with it for now. I think one could find just the right spring that would slide over the lead screw and would offer a more authoritative end stop, but it could be tricky to get that right.

Thanks for the comments.

On another note, this is turning into the rabbit hole I expected it would. Started out that I just needed to give the lathe a good cleaning after stupidly getting abrasive on it.

I ended up taking everything right of the headstock off and apart for a deep clean and rebuild. Was planing on just cleaning up the left side of the lathe in-situ. So tonight I started removing covers and stuff, quickly realized that it would be easy to pop the motor and take the swinging jack shaft off so I could flush it really good - and possibly take the shaft bearings apart as it would be pretty easy once it's off the lathe. All the gearing on the back side comes off real easy also.

And then there is the head stock and back drive..... I really don't want to pull the spindle as it's working just fine and has no play or crunch to it. The plan was to just flood it with K1 and work all the gunk out with it on the lathe bed. But now realizing that pulling the head stock casting off would make it easier to clean. And.... I've got the kit etc, etc,

Just don't know. I took a couple of days off from work for my birthday and spent them getting to this point! Was actually a rather relaxing and enjoyable thing. I just don't think that work would be OK with, hey I need a few more days off, I'm rebuilding my lathe:D

Thoughts on cleaning / flushing it out with out pulling the spindle?

I think the quick change gear box can wait until I have the time to tackle it.
 
There’s really no way to ‘flush’ the spindle or oil reservoirs without getting whatever is nasty in there impregnated into the wicks. Since the wicks are in constant contact with the spindle they are bound to transfer the crud to the spindle. Pull the spindle and clean all the parts correctly.
 
I rebuilt my 9A last year. Doing the headstock is straight forward. You will for sure want to replace the spring loaded wicks and inspect the spindle and bearing surfaces. May I also suggest adding thrust bearings to the back end where the composition washer was.


Cutting oil is my blood.
 
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Posted wrong bearing stuff. Had to delete.

Edit again. Purchased from EBay was $30. Look for take up bearing for SB9 should pop right up
Cutting oil is my blood.
 
@twhite - presently my spindle has no perceivable play and is extremely smooth. I re-read the overhaul instructions in the ILION book and it doesn't look that bad at all. My biggest fear is I won't be able to get it back together as good as it currently is.

In particular, the instructions on adjusting the bearing with shims. Is it likely that what is currently setup (before disassembly) will be just fine or am I going to have to pull existing shims out fuss with it to get it "perfect" again? Using the tail stock to seat the spindle on reassembly looks like my best option. Is that typically effective?

The back gear adjustment is no big deal, I'm sure I can handle that.
 
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