Jet 13X40 Headstock alignment nightmare with Walter Meier.

HEADSTOCK IS NOT PINNED. AS SHOWN IN POST #1. THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ARE PLACEBOS. I really, really need some help from someone that has done this.

Using a dial indicator at the rear of the HS, there is not movement when adjustments are turned. That is why JET avoided the issue.

Help me I've fallen and cant get up. Hee Hee

Mike
 
Call me as your not understanding. You are totally screwing up an easy procedure. On all the machines I have seen have a fulcrum pin about 1" diameter under the center of the head stock. I am not talking about the dowel pins. They should be pulled out and after you get the shaft cutting straight you will have to ream new pin holes as the old ones will be useless and a new pin will need to be installed unless they are taper pins. I did not want you to remove the 2 collar shaft and I did not want you to indicate the inner close to the chuck collar. I am sorry you are not understanding this as I have told people in the past to do it. CALL ME next time your in your shop and ready to turn the part. This is a simple issue and should not be so complicated.

If the head stock does not have a center fulcrum pin then leave one pin in the front so the head will pivot on that pin and the adjusters. Do you have a blue print other then what you have on the Winchester? If not give me the machine serial number, model number, your dealers name, do you have copies of the work orders Jet gave the repairmen, your name and address so I can call Jet and have them send me a blue print. Email me at Richard@handscraping.com my phone number is 651 338 8141.

After thinking more about this I need to call Jet and talk to them, so they can send me a blue print before you call me. Email your info to me please. I want to help you resolve this issue and you are to emotional about it an not understanding. You need to chill out.
 
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Mike,

I'd still like to see you use a MUCH beefier test bar made from aluminum as opposed to steel. It cuts easier and as a result will spring less.

My bar is currently 3.25" or so in diameter and about 10" long. The fact that I see chatter on the test bar convinces me your bar is springing. You'll never know what you've got with a setup like that...

I'll read your posts again about the placebo comment and see if can offer any further suggestions.

John
 
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jmh8743 said:
John,

I am an engineer-surveyor. The level I used has a radius measured in seconds>>>than a machinists level 'tho I have one which I used initially.

I think now, with the help (read confidence) I'm getting now, after 2 years I'm getting close AND my lathe measured about same as yours. Impossible to bore.

All I can say is gracias for your comment. What I did not know is which comes first "the chicken or the egg".

Mike
Click to expand...

Mike, Sounds like you did right with the leveling. Two measurements taken at right angles to the ways at each end of the bed read the same, yes?

John
 
jmh8743 said:
John, I do have some gears to move to get to the darn adjustment bar. Right now, other fish to fry. I'm going to make a photo of the left side of the headstock. I found the bar you were talking about. And per "All this is presuming your lathe spindle isn't angled up or down with respect to the bed".
Click to expand...

If your lathe is off with respect to the bed vertically (mine is a bit), the best you can do without dissassembling the beastie and scraping and fitting and shimming (oh my!) is to compensate for the taper caused by this. Alas, this will only be good at one diameter...

As for the "placebo" bar, I can't fathom why the adjustment feature does nothing. Perhaps she really is pinned? Are all the bolts loose? Is the head free to move? For any further advice, I'd have to defer to Richard. If he can get a copy of the prints rom Jet, maybe we can figure how the adjustment feature is supoosed to work.

Richard, as an interesting bit of trivia, my G4003 has no fulcrum pin... That would've made life so much easier for me! How 'bout a trip to Alabama with Banjo's on our knees? :rofl:

John
 
Mike, relax a little.....slow down and approach this problem with patience and perseverance. According to a manual I found online, I believe for your lathe, alignment is possible as I described.

Headstock
The headstock (B, Fig. 10) is cast from high
grade, low vibration cast iron. It is bolted to
the bed by four screws with two adjusting
screws for alignment. In the head, the spindle
is mounted on two precision taper roller
bearings. The hollow spindle has Morse
Taper #5 with a 1-1/2" bore.

Page 24 of the manual describes the procedure. I believe you can do it. You are getting good advise from a very experienced, very skilled individual and lots of support from everyone. We want you to understand this, and accomplish this successfully.

manual: http://content.wmhtoolgroup.com/manuals/m-321810.pdf
 
Thank You Tony, John & Richard,

Due to chatter I made a very light .001 cut on both colars, but all of that is trivial now. As Richard said I screwed up an easy application. There are not 4 screws I can find.

PM to Richard.

1) fd 2 cap screws beneath the chuck, loosened same.

2) fd 1 as below:

01-01-13 025.jpg


Cant find the 4th. See post 37. It cannot be beneath the pulley.
Also see Post 17....I have the piece Steve got me to cut that one to face. It is 2.5". Also I have some 2.5" SS tubing.

JMH at reduced anxiety level.

01-01-13 025.jpg
 
Take your time....call up jet and ask them. I am to tired to do much else tonight. I can't imagine they only have 3 hold down bolts. I'm rebuilding machinery during the day. It was easy to write a lot during the holidays, but now we have to wait until Sat. Thanks Tony for the book. And John is right about the bar size. It looked like Aluminum to me, until you said it was steel.
Good Night
 
I called Walter Meier today and talked to Steve in Technical service and he said he wished you had called him. Here is his Email. Steve.Pershon@waltermeier.com

He said there are 4 bolts holding the head to the bed. The bolts are in a square pattern on the bottom of the head. He said to remove the pulley and gear and you will find the 2 of the bolts. He said the pin in front is what I suspected. It's the pivot point. He said if you took it out, to put it back in and put in a shaft in the chuck and rough align it by moving the saddle back and forth and when it's close, then take a cut as described in the manual . He looked up your name and could not find it in his files. ??

If you didn't have all 4 bolts lose there was no way you could have moved the head. I am a BIG Believer in reading the directions or calling the factory help techs. I know you have had bad luck with a couple of service people, but on average I think many of these people who do service calls are good. Steve was sincere and I could tell he knew what he was talking about.

He did say the block in the back has 2 lock nuts on the adjusting screws. He said that if it was .0032 out then that moving the head just a small amount is all you need, even said he has used a soft blow hammer to tap it over. He said if you can't get it call him on Monday. He was wondering if you have Skype on you computer? He said you can talk on it and not the cell phone. I invited him to join us here as he is an technical expert on Jet, Wilton, and Powermatic. He has several years of experience as a service man for these machines. Be sure you have sharp tool and only take .001 to .002" on your last pass. Per other posts. I suggest you take a no touch the cross feed screw after you last .001" pass. Stop the spindle and don't touch anything and slowly crank the saddle toward TS end. Watch to see if the tool bit or insert drags a scratch on the TS end collar. If it does take another free pass not touching the cross feed again. Do this until you do not see a scratch. Then measure it and move the head. DO NOT TAKE THE TEST BAR OF THE CHUCK AT ANY TIME WHILE DOING THIS. NOT UNTIL YOUR SATISFIED.

As I said you can call me as it might be easier to understand hearing it.
I found Steve at Walter Meier as a very helpful professional. So you may want to edit your posts or add "it is your opinion"

Rich
 
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jgedde said:
Mike, Sounds like you did right with the leveling. Two measurements taken at right angles to the ways at each end of the bed read the same, yes?

John
Click to expand...

Hey john,

No placebo jam nuts. I could not find the 4th nut. It was there, well hidden. (Hello Tony).

A little belated, but, answer is no. There were 4 points measured to 0.001 ft. Super instrument, reads a bar-coded rod. Bought it 7 years ago. Still state-of-the-art. Use it rarely to its full extent.

Wish I had a pic to show you.

Mike
 
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