ISO Atlas 10"

garrhardcastle

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Afternoon everyone! New to being a hobby machinist so please mind your big words if I ask for explanation! I had to opportunity to pick up a Atlas 10100 and was told not to do it as I'd be looking for something bigger way to quick (and it had very brittle gears/didn't have quick change gears). Lots of recommendations to start on a 10" lathe. I'm not familiar with many brands and its been hell finding used for a decent price.

I have about 1,000 to start with as of right now (what the wife will let me spend). I'd really like to start turning some of my own motorcycle parts, bolts, and bungs as I find myself spending more money on those items and always on the hunt for the "right" bung, bolt, etc. With how much work I put into building motorcycles I think its time to start learning and dipping into the machining world.

I'm located in Colorado Springs, Colorado. The less of a drive the better!
 
I’ve had an Atlas 10” (TH42) for many years now and it does what I need it too. But the key is knowing what you want to build on it and matching the size to that.

Brittle gears? Yeah, ah, nope. Others may differ on that but I have been using the same “zamak” gears since 1954. Well, I haven’t had it since 54, but it has its original gears. No issues when I’m running it whatsoever. I actually am running some 3d printed gears (in abs) in it because I wanted to try them. No issues and they actually quiet down the “ring” these gear trains usually have.

“Small” is more a reflection of what you want to do with it more than the size of the machine. Are there times when I could use an Atlas 12 or bigger? Sure. But very few times and I’m a regular at the local machine shops so they cut me a good break when I need something cut bigger than my 10” can handle.

You will outgrow it though if you plan to regularly make things bigger than a 10” will swing. Keep in mind 10” is the diameter of the chuck, not the diameter of the part. You are somewhat limited on larger diameter parts because the jaws will stick out more the bigger diameter the part and you need them to not hit the ways when turning. Its never been a problem for me though. Most of my parts are for motorcycles and cars and my 10” is a good size for that.

The real knock against any Atlas 10“ in my mind is its going to be hard to find one that has little to no wear. They’re all in the 30-50+ year old category now, so they’ll all have worn parts somewhere in the machine.

I used mine for years with worn half nuts and other such wear parts. No problem working around the lash and you can still buy parts new from the current brand owners. Thats where several of my parts cane from. Reasonable prices too. Ebay used parts and accessories (ie: taper attachment, milling attachment, etc) are going to cost a pretty penny, but that more of a “collectors” issue than anything else.

Some will say the Atlas isn’t “rigid” enough to do close tolerance work, but mine works fine for me and I can get down in the 2 thou range tolerance when needed. Thats more than accurate enough for what I use it for. I’ve even made and modified engine pistons on it.

Standard upgrades and parts (ie: 4 jaw chuck, motor upgrades, QCTP, etc) all go on it like any other lathe. Some bolt on, some need a little work. Standard type jobs for any lathe.

If you think a 10” will fit your work flow, go for it. If not, save up for something a little bigger.

Heres a quick snap of mine after I finally got to the point where I wanted to tear it down and do a “resto” on it:

IMG_0202.jpeg

It has a Baldor DC motor and Danfoss controller running it. it orginally had a 1/4 hp AC motor which was just too wimpy for my use.

Keep in mind anything you find is not going to be in that shape. They will all be old and in various states of mechanical and cosmetic repair.

If you don’t mind a project that you can use while rebuikding, nothing wrong with an Atlas 10”. I enjoyed getting to know how to use mine in a worn state and enjoyed restoring it even more. But I’m funny like that; I like working on machines as much as I enjoy using them. Plus, my lathe is “unique” and has “a bit of me“ in it now.

I do wish I’d waited for a 12” Atlas sometimes, but if I had I’d probably still be wishing I had a lathe with a bigger swing.

I find thats the main problem with lathes: no matter how big you get, you always wish you had a bigger one…you just gotta pick one that covers 75-90% of your needs and farm out whats oversized. If you don’t, you’ll never be happy with what you have.


I’ll also piint out that you will probably also have to spend as much (or more) on tooling as you will for the lathe. Spend 1G on a lathe and you can easily spend double that in quality tooling and accessories. A used Atlas can be good that way as they are usually sold with an assortment of tooling and accessories.
 
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I’ve had an Atlas 10” (TH42) for many years now and it does what I need it too. But the key is knowing what you want to build on it and matching the size to that.

Brittle gears? Yeah, ah, nope. Others may differ in that but I have been using with the same “zamak” gears since 1954. well, I haven’t had it since 54, but it has its original gears. No issues when I’m running it whatsoever. I acrually am running some 3d printed gears in it because I wanted to try them. No issues and they actually quite down the “ring” these gear trains usually have.

“Small” is more a reflection of what you want to do with it more than the size of the machine. Are there times when I could use an Atlas 12 or bigger? Sure. But very few times and I’m a regular at the local machine shops so they cut me a good break when I need something cut bigger than my 10” can handle.

You will outgrow it though if you plan to regularly make things bigger than a 10” will handle. Most of my parts are for motorcycles and cars and my 10” is a good size for that.

The real knock against any Atlas 10“ in my mind is its going to be hard to find one that has little to no wear. They’re all in the 30-50+ year old category now, so they’ll all have worn parts somewhere in the machine.

I used mine for years with worn half nuts and other such wear parts. No problem working around the lash and you can still buy parts new from the current brand owners. Thats where several of my parts cane from. Reasonable prices too. Ebay used parts and accessories (ie: taper attachment, milling attachment, etc) are going to cost a pretty penny, but that more of a “collectors” issue than anything else.

Some will say the Atlas isn’t “rigid” enough to do close tolerance work, but mine works fine for me and I can get down in the 2 thou range tolerance when needed. Thats more than accurate enough for what I use it for. I’ve even made and modified engine pistons on it.

Standard upgrades and parts (ie: 4 jaw chuck, motor upgrades, QCTP, etc) all go on it like any other lathe. Some bolt on, some need a little work. Standard type jobs for any lathe.

If you think a 10” will fit your work flow, go for it. If not, save up for something a little bigger.

Heres a quick snap of mine after I finally got to the point where I wanted to tear it down and do a “resto” on it:

View attachment 458955

It has a Baldor DC motor and Danfoss controller running it. it orginally had a 1/4 hp AC motor which was just too wimpy for my use.

Keep in mind anything you find is not going to be in that shape. They will all be old and in various states of mechanical and cosmetic repair.

If you don’t mind a project that you can use while rebuikding, nothing wrong with an Atlas 10”. I enjoyed getting to know how to use mine in a worn state and enjoyed restoring it even more. But I’m funny like that; I like working on machines as much as I enjoy using them. Plus, my lathe is “unique” and has “a bit of me“ in it now.

I do wish I’d waited for a 12” Atlas sometimes, but if I had I’d probably still be wishing I had a lathe with a bigger swing.

I find thats the main problem with lathes: no matter how big you get, you always wish you had a bigger one…you just gotta pick one that covers 75-90% of your needs and farm out whats oversized. If you don’t, you’ll never be happy with what you have.


I’ll also piint out that you will probably also have to spend as much (or more) on tooling as you will for the lathe. Spend 1G on a lathe and you can easily spend double that in quality tooling and accessories. A used Atlas can be good that way as they are usually sold with an assortment of tooling and accessories.
Wow what a great read!
Thank you so much! I think a 10" would honestly get me through just about anything I might need. I really love the old vintage ones (sucker for old) and love how beautiful you restored your machine to. Absolutely goals!
 
I’ve had an Atlas 10” (TH42) for many years now and it does what I need it too. But the key is knowing what you want to build on it and matching the size to that.

Brittle gears? Yeah, ah, nope. Others may differ in that but I have been using with the same “zamak” gears since 1954. well, I haven’t had it since 54, but it has its original gears. No issues when I’m running it whatsoever. I acrually am running some 3d printed gears in it because I wanted to try them. No issues and they actually quite down the “ring” these gear trains usually have.

“Small” is more a reflection of what you want to do with it more than the size of the machine. Are there times when I could use an Atlas 12 or bigger? Sure. But very few times and I’m a regular at the local machine shops so they cut me a good break when I need something cut bigger than my 10” can handle.

You will outgrow it though if you plan to regularly make things bigger than a 10” will handle. Most of my parts are for motorcycles and cars and my 10” is a good size for that.

The real knock against any Atlas 10“ in my mind is its going to be hard to find one that has little to no wear. They’re all in the 30-50+ year old category now, so they’ll all have worn parts somewhere in the machine.

I used mine for years with worn half nuts and other such wear parts. No problem working around the lash and you can still buy parts new from the current brand owners. Thats where several of my parts cane from. Reasonable prices too. Ebay used parts and accessories (ie: taper attachment, milling attachment, etc) are going to cost a pretty penny, but that more of a “collectors” issue than anything else.

Some will say the Atlas isn’t “rigid” enough to do close tolerance work, but mine works fine for me and I can get down in the 2 thou range tolerance when needed. Thats more than accurate enough for what I use it for. I’ve even made and modified engine pistons on it.

Standard upgrades and parts (ie: 4 jaw chuck, motor upgrades, QCTP, etc) all go on it like any other lathe. Some bolt on, some need a little work. Standard type jobs for any lathe.

If you think a 10” will fit your work flow, go for it. If not, save up for something a little bigger.

Heres a quick snap of mine after I finally got to the point where I wanted to tear it down and do a “resto” on it:

View attachment 458955

It has a Baldor DC motor and Danfoss controller running it. it orginally had a 1/4 hp AC motor which was just too wimpy for my use.

Keep in mind anything you find is not going to be in that shape. They will all be old and in various states of mechanical and cosmetic repair.

If you don’t mind a project that you can use while rebuikding, nothing wrong with an Atlas 10”. I enjoyed getting to know how to use mine in a worn state and enjoyed restoring it even more. But I’m funny like that; I like working on machines as much as I enjoy using them. Plus, my lathe is “unique” and has “a bit of me“ in it now.

I do wish I’d waited for a 12” Atlas sometimes, but if I had I’d probably still be wishing I had a lathe with a bigger swing.

I find thats the main problem with lathes: no matter how big you get, you always wish you had a bigger one…you just gotta pick one that covers 75-90% of your needs and farm out whats oversized. If you don’t, you’ll never be happy with what you have.


I’ll also piint out that you will probably also have to spend as much (or more) on tooling as you will for the lathe. Spend 1G on a lathe and you can easily spend double that in quality tooling and accessories. A used Atlas can be good that way as they are usually sold with an assortment of tooling and accessories.

https://boulder.craigslist.org/tls/d/lafayette-1948-atlas-metal-lathe/7660172095.html

Is one thats in the talks for me right now. Has someone else checking on it Tuesday. Really hoping he falls through so I can grab it on my weekend!
 
Seems like a decent deal. The 3 and 4 jaw chucks are a good extra along with the tooling. Nice that its already mounted on a tool box. Appears to be in decent shape from the pics. Looks to be a Timken bearing model, which is a good thing. Woukd be nice if it had the quick change gearbox, but I do fine without one on mine. The qcgb is nice if you get into making threads, otherwise its just more convenient for changing feed speeds.

The broken wheels will be zamak, which is “unrepairable”. Zamak is essentially zinc with a bit of copper alloyed in it. Theres more to it than that, but thats the nub of it. It melts at a very low temperature and attempting to braze or weld it just results in a puddle on the floor. Ebay will likely turn up some oem (ie: used) replacements, but it might cost you a couple bucks to buy them. Guys are always breaking the atlas lathes down and selling off the parts as they can make more off them that way. Or, you can make some on your “new” lathe…they just won’t look oem…
 
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You can pick up replacement handwheels easily. OEM used off Ebay or new from Clausing. They are the same on both the cross-feed and compound. The tailstock handwheel is the same on the later 12" Craftsman and Atlas models, so the same options for that.

Change gears take a little time when going between turning and threading. For hobby work, most people find a feed that works for finishing and just use it for roughing, too. Lack of a quick-change gearbox is a drawback, but not a deal-breaker. In fact, it can be a good bargaining point.

Here is my Atlas QC-42 (24" between centers) that I rebuilt and set up almost 40 years ago. It has done some amazing things!

QC42_1.jpg
 
One change that helped rigidity immensely on mine was removing the top compound slide and making a solid plinth:

IMG_3585.jpeg

Before the plinth, parting operations were a nightmare: chattering, grabbing, squealing, etc. The top compound just added a little too much play in the stack and that allowed everything to “vibrate” when parting. Once the plinth was installed, nirvana! My little 10” Atlas parts like its a much bigger, more rigid machine.

The plinth added so much rigidity, I leave it installed all the time and only put the top compound back on when I need it for an operation that would be very difficult any other way. With the plinth installed, I just don’t get chatter on any operation, ever.

Nice thing about the plinth is you can make it on the lathe itself. Turn it to diameter, a recess on the bottom to accept the cross slide dovetail and a threaded hole on top for the qctp. Then two threaded holes for the tightening pins and good to go. The height doesn’t need to be exact if using a qctp as you adjust “on center” with each tool holder.

Had I known it was going to be so useful for me, it would have been one of the first things I made. I originally made it because my orginal top compound broke (where they all snap off), but its such a useful item I just leave it on all the time now.
 
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Just want to let you guys know that I shot my shot for that TH42 in boulder and it looks like I'll be picking it up this Sunday! I'm excited about my new journey getting into machining. I think the TH42 will be perfect for what I need it for for the time being thanks to your guy's recommendations! My wife told me I better start a business if I get any good haha !
 
One change that helped rigidity immensely on mine was removing the top compound slide and making a solid plinth:

View attachment 458973

Before the plinth, parting operations were a nightmare: chattering, grabbing, squealing, etc. The top compound just added a little too much play in the stack and that allowed everything to “vibrate” when parting. Once the plinth was installed, nirvana! My little 10” Atlas parts like its a much bigger, more rigid machine.

The plinth added so much rigidity, I leave it installed all the time and only put the top compound back on when I need it for an operation that would be very difficult any other way. With the plinth installed, I just don’t get chatter on any operation, ever.

Nice thing about the plinth is you can make it on the lathe itself. Turn it to diameter, a recess on the bottom to accept the cross slide dovetail and a threaded hole on top for the qctp. Then two threaded holes for the tightening pins and good to go. The height doesn’t need to be exact if using a qctp as you adjust “on center” with each tool holder.

Had I known it was going to be so useful for me, it would have been one of the first things I made. I originally made it because my orginal top compound broke (where they all snap off), but its such a useful item I just leave it on all the time now.
I'm also very interested in making a plinth if its going to make my machine more rigid! I'd love to see any info, any tutorials, etc of making one on my "new" machine!
 
Just want to let you guys know that I shot my shot for that TH42 in boulder and it looks like I'll be picking it up this Sunday! I'm excited about my new journey getting into machining. I think the TH42 will be perfect for what I need it for for the time being thanks to your guy's recommendations! My wife told me I better start a business if I get any good haha !
Actually, it will be a QC42 because it has the qcgb.
A TH42 (as mine is) only has a reversing gearbox.

edit: whoops, went back and looked at the ad. Its not a qcgb so it would be a “TH” model. It does look a little “short to be a “42”. Might just be the way it looks in the pics though.

They made them up to 54” and as “small” as 24”. The plate on the end of the bed under the tailstock will tell you which it is…
 
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