Is a Precision Tig 275 too much machine for me?

[erikmannie]

You are set for machines. For me, it would be an easy decision to keep what you have and become adept at TIG, MIG and stick.

After a lot of research, I chose to run C25 for MIG gas. I would recommend choosing the LWS closest to your home to get shielding gas. If they give you any trouble, move onto the place that is the second closest to your home.

That huge machine will run E6010 like a champ! Stick welders will envy that, for sure.

I use a tungsten grinder; it was expensive, but I have already gotten my money’s worth out of it. I also usually use a TIG pen (about $35 online).

I have never desired glass cups. I am happy with standard cups & gas lenses.

The Welding Tips & Tricks podcast as well as Arc Junkies podcast (I like the new host WAY better than Jimmy McKnight) will hyperaccelerate your welding education.

My favorite YouTube guru is Bob Moffatt.

 

[Tankueray]

I'm on a tight budget, so I'd lean toward using those CO2 tanks. You can do MIG with them.

They're expired, if I can get the supply to trade them out, great, but the last time I had paintball canisters recertified it cost me a fortune, so they'll become crucibles if that's the case.

in case I run out on a weekend.

Hmmm.... I have keys to my friend's shop down the road. I don't know why his cylinders only go empty on the weekends....

and it's good you are starting with that instead of a silly Harbor Freight 120V flux core welder that many beginners fall in to

You didn't read my whole post, did you? Titanium = Harbor Freight

Then, every time you contaminate your tungsten, put in the next one.

I bet I'm going to have to buy a lot of tungsten. My friend may also have a problem with his tungsten mysteriously becoming q-tipped. I have a few spare sanders and a pedestal grinder that only ever gets used for the wire brush, and I'm particular enough that I could dedicate a few stone wheels to tungsten.

So you use stick for the grunt work, what do you use TIG on? If it doesn't have to be mil-spec, isn't it really time consuming?

Stupid question, can you sharpen both ends of a tungsten rod and flip them around? How do you "break" them? Score and snap or just hi-yaa!?

 

[erikmannie]

They're expired, if I can get the supply to trade them out, great, but the last time I had paintball canisters recertified it cost me a fortune, so they'll become crucibles if that's the case.


Hmmm.... I have keys to my friend's shop down the road. I don't know why his cylinders only go empty on the weekends....


You didn't read my whole post, did you? Titanium = Harbor Freight


I bet I'm going to have to buy a lot of tungsten. My friend may also have a problem with his tungsten mysteriously becoming q-tipped. I have a few spare sanders and a pedestal grinder that only ever gets used for the wire brush, and I'm particular enough that I could dedicate a few stone wheels to tungsten.

So you use stick for the grunt work, what do you use TIG on? If it doesn't have to be mil-spec, isn't it really time consuming?

Stupid question, can you sharpen both ends of a tungsten rod and flip them around? How do you "break" them? Score and snap or just hi-yaa!?

I never cut my tungsten in half. The only reason that I would do that would be to get into a tight joint, and you will have short tungstens after a bit of welding. If you sharpen both ends, you would put yourself in a position to have a blob of contaminant in your back cap.

I use TIG for aluminum, Ti and stainless, and when I want to minimize smoke & spatter. I use MIG when I am in a hurry, for a spot repair, or for a huge job. I use stick a LOT. You didn’t ask, but I use oxyacetylene welding for really thin steel (less than .063”).

I cut tungsten with these:

CN-10 Professional Cable and Housing Cutter

A shop-quality cutting pliers designed specifically for use on bicycle cable and housing.

www.parktool.com

When you dip your tungsten, you cut off the contaminated ball at the end, and then resharpen. No need to spend your time grinding down contaminant.

 

[Tankueray]

I would recommend choosing the LWS closest to your home to get shielding gas. If they give you any trouble, move onto the place that is the second closest to your home.

There are only 2 in town, and the guys at one think women should stay in the kitchen. The other one rocks though. The next closest is 150 miles. I'm okay if they can't take them, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

I use a tungsten grinder; it was expensive, but I have already gotten my money’s worth out of it. I also usually use a TIG pen (about $35 online).

That's what I've heard, I might buy one eventually, I can think of a lot more things I could use instead first. I did order something similar to the pen though, to help with the bouncing.

The Welding Tips & Tricks podcast as well as Arc Junkies podcast (I like the new host WAY better than Jimmy McKnight) will hyperaccelerate your welding education.

I remember podcasts, before my commute to work consisted of walking to the other side of the house. I like WT&T's YouTube channel, I might pull up some podcasts in the garage while I'm finishing the plasma build. Thanks.

 

[erikmannie]

I can see why you don’t patronize the LWS where they think that women should stay in the kitchen. I guess they haven’t heard that, statistically, women actually have better manual dexterity. All the more reason to practice a crazy amount and become a very adept welder and machinist.

 

[Tankueray]

It's an oil-field area, there are still a few good 'ol boys loafing around here and there. They're not used to walk-in customers without a contract account. That's probably why the other store handles nearly all of the medium and small business and individual accounts in the area, they also have supplies on the shelf, a bigger showroom stocked with shiny things, and a fresh pot of coffee all day. And they have great discounts and job placement assistance for the local kids in tech school - an all-around great company that sells more than just gas. I deal with most of the area fabrication companies for my day job, and I often hear how they like the women better and compete to hire them. Not necessarily because of better skills, but work ethic and attention to detail. The girls are willing to drive 120 miles round trip every day to start at $80 an hour, some of the boys are too, but many of them fizzle out months out of school and end up as welder's helpers for $15 an hour. Or they end up in food service, there are an amazing amount of welding school graduates in food service around here. All the while the area companies are advertising good pay and benefits, tuition and certification assistance, and retirement plans. (sigh) Kids....get off my lawn.

 

[jwmelvin]

That thing about women’s in the kitchen and not welding made me chuckle. I’ve had a TIG setup for a few years and I think the repetitive dexterity of kitchen knife work translates very well to TIG. Sure, TIG can be challenging in a different way because pausing causes an interruption, so I like to think of it as a blend of knife work and drumming.

You don’t want to sharpen both ends because a lot of time with a blob on the end you wouldn’t be able to put the tungsten in the front of the collet. And if you put it in the back and blob the other end, you’d have to cut it to remove. Just sharpen a ten pack and that gives you plenty of chances. I use a belt/disc grinder of a diamond disc ($5 on eBay) sandwiched to a bench grinder wheel.

The furic glass cups can be super nice in some situations. They definitely improve visibility. I try to use mine only when it would make a difference. I generally use gas lenses with the pink ceramic cups. Get good gas lenses and collets (Miller). I bought a used 250A setup with a water cooler so my torch is pretty small (#20, same size as #9).

 

[jwmelvin]

Oh, on gas: I first had a 120V wire feed and converted it to MIG, so I have an 80 cu ft cylinder for Ar-CO2. For TIG, I wanted more ability to practice so I rented the largest Ar cylinder, a 330 cu ft. Around here (northern Virginia) its almost impossible to find a place that will deal with owned tanks larger than 80. I just swapped the Ar cylinder for the first time, three years later.

 

[Liljoebrshooter]

That is a awesome welder but I don't have enough amps to run something like that.
TIG welding takes some practice. I have seen some women at work that are excellent TIG welders. Most ladies have a delicate touch that is required. Just look at their penmanship.

Joe

 

[ericc]

They're expired, if I can get the supply to trade them out, great, but the last time I had paintball canisters recertified it cost me a fortune, so they'll become crucibles if that's the case.
...
So you use stick for the grunt work, what do you use TIG on? If it doesn't have to be mil-spec, isn't it really time consuming?

Stupid question, can you sharpen both ends of a tungsten rod and flip them around? How do you "break" them? Score and snap or just hi-yaa!?

I had a funny experience at my welding store. I brought an old cylinder in, and they talked me through the whole deal, then said that they will swap anything under 120 cf without much fuss. I then said that I had another old cylinder I'd like to bring in. The fellow said wait till we get to know you better and you're an established customer, else we'll charge you for hydrotest. I shut my mouth and filled the tank a few times, then brought in the second one. They didn't even raise an eyebrow and swapped it out immediately. Now I bring in all sorts of tanks, and even friend's tanks. All OK. Being a regular customer, rather than a looky loo, helps a lot, and I bet it would help in Texas.

As for stick and TIG, I use stick on everything I can. I hate paying for gas. It costs about $50 to fill a 55 cf tank, so that's about $10 per hour of welding. Stick will eat about 1-2 kwh in an hour of welding, which is 50 cents, plus a few garage sale junk rods. I will also use TIG for custom machine tools where it will ruin the tool if I burn through or weld too far, such as a pocket for inserts. I also welded a umbrella with broken ribs (kind of as a show-off stunt; it's better than aluminum cans because the umbrella will keep you dry later). There is no way you can do this with a stick welder. The sparks would ruin the thin fabric.

I never sharpen tungsten on both ends. I'm afraid of poking myself, and I really hate it when people grind off the red or purple band, and now you've got a mystery tungsten.