Indexable Insert HSS Tool Bits for Mini-lathe?

MaverickNH

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2012
Messages
128
I was given this set in 3/8” back in 2012 and have just started using them on my 500W 7x12 LMS mini-lathe. They worked better at 500rpm than did carbide tools at 2500 on aluminum.

Will they be useful on steel too?

I’ll get some blanks and try grinding my own tools soon!


IMG_2566.jpeg
 
I do not think much of them, especially for cutting steel, there is no back rake or side rake and no way to break chips, a tool holder that takes positive rake inserts with an adjustable chip breaker is the better choice, at least for steel cutting. For my small lathe, I use HSS tool bits with a semicircular chip breaker (curler) ground in along the cutting edge, as I was taught in high school back in the very early 1960s, they work quite well, and do not put a lot of strain on the machine as negative rake tools do; learning to grind your own cutting tools is quite important in lathe operations.
 
Will your tool post hold 1/2"? and why buy another set ?
Sorry, I meant I have a set like these already in 3/8” but found this part/picture in 1/2”.
 
For turning steel on my mini lathe, I use small sized (CCMT060204, DCMT070204) cheap inserts and most of the time, they perform better than my HSS tools.
If things get difficult, I use an insert for aluminum (CCGT060202, DCGT070202) that is ground, razor sharp and has a small tool nose radius. You don't need to run these at the recommended feed, speed and depth of cut. Even at low feed rate (0.05 mm/rev), low speed (20 m/min) and shallow depth of cut (0.05 mm) they perform well and give a good finish.
 
They will not do as well on steel as they do in aluminum. But they would work. Without any rake, you're gonna be pretty small on the depth of cut and feed rate, but they will work. I would suggest simply trying one (gently) and see what it does for you. I don't know how "available" those inserts are, but given the no back rake and no side rake situation, I suspect the nose radius might be kind of a big deal to you. But try what you've got. I can tell you this- I use a south bend 9 inch lathe, and I have tool bits ranging from a quarter to a half inch. If the inserts work, you might get "some" benefit from the half inch tool holders, but the 3/8 ones that you have, they're as stout as the lathe. If you think a little extra mass and weight might help, then yeah, bigger would be give you a little of that. Move the chatter frequencies and such. But if you can't make the ones you have work "pretty darned good", then I wouldn't count on a larger set being tangibly better. I think the biggest drawback (which "might" be OK, depending what you'r'e doing) is going to be the rake angles.

I'm assuming that you're using the stock four way post or quick change post that presents the tool perfectly horizontally, right? If so, here's a though about grinding your own tools. This "old school method" of making tools has some weird geometries (or at least not intuitive at first) when you're using an "old school tool post" that presents the tool at various upward angles. Grinding tools to present horizontally and square to the work does require a little more material removal, but the geometry is very simple and intuitive that way.

I find that with a low(er) speed and low(er) powered lathe, there are times when carbide tools are necessary for some steels. But the higher tool pressure and horsepower per cut requirements are night and day. Overall, even if you've got to deal with some strings here and there, the lower tool pressure from ground HSS bits makes the whole thing a much more enjoyable experience. So what I'm saying is basically that you need tools that work for you, but don't be surprised if what works for you is a mix of tool types. HSS for where it's best, and carbide for where it is best.

But anyhow, as I said, take the tools you have, and give one a go. See what happens. You won't hurt the lathe, and as long as you don't crash it you won't hurt the holder. Worst you'll do is get a bad cut, or bugger an insert. I have doubts, but maybe it's OK for what you're doing. There's one way to find out.
 
I think they do pretty well with steel. Surprisingly well for the geometry. You can still do better, faster, with conventional ground HSS, but I've used the AR Warner tools because they were handy at the time, and they worked fine. My lathe is large, so I don't know how the lower HP or a mini-lathe might change your experience, but I suspect they will do fine with appropriate speed and depth of cut.

GsT
 
Before I go grinding my own HSS tools, I figured I’d get some experience using some precut ones first. I ordered this set on Amazon and should have them in a week.


IMG_2570.jpeg
 
I would try some carbide TCMT 222 inserts for steel on those holders.
 
Before I go grinding my own HSS tools, I figured I’d get some experience using some precut ones first. I ordered this set on Amazon and should have them in a week.


View attachment 467361
The 2 tools on the right, 80° L/R turning tools, only need a grind at the front to keep them sharp. For a better finish, you could round the tip by grinding it one pass, very,very,very lightly. That should give a small tool nose radius (you absolutely need a very small radius on a light weight lathe) for a better finish. You will probably over do this and grind a to large radius. I grind mine to a 0.02 to 0.04 mm radius.
For easy grinding, I use stackable jigs to keep the grinding angles always the same. Using the jigs, I can regrind my tools in seconds.
The 2 jigs in the picture give a combined angle of 6° and 60° to grind a metric external threading tool. The 6° base is used for all external HSS tools.
The stone is a €7 "diamond" disk that lasts several years. On the back a stepper motor that runs at 1000 RPM. The long square steel bars functions as rail to move the tool in 2 directions. The short steel square bar is used to keep the 2 jigs aligned together.
S7300531.jpg
 
Back
Top