I think this is my next project car

alloy said:
Yes keeping it black. She's got a few nicks here and there, mostly from me working on it. I don't like working on a car with nice paint doing so many repairs and upgrades. I have fender covers, but I turn my back and they fall off. I've used small clamps to try and keep them in place but it's a losing battle.

57 chevy? You are one of those that use the "gun sights" on the hood :p
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That's me alright! :busted:
 
Dang, your sharp. Caught that right off. :grin: Sorry, just my brand of humor.

It's in my aluminum scrap pile. Was running it yesterday setting the turn on temp for my fans and I backed into my shop and had a big puddle of antifreeze on the floor when I got out of the car. It's coming out of the middle of the radiator. I called a radiator shop and he said me might be able to fix it. Didn't sound promising. I figure if one place started leaking and I fix it, no doubt it will spring another leak somewhere down the road.

I found another one that's the same size and ordered it. Going to have to weld some mounting brackets on it. I would have liked to have gone a 3" think radiator, but there is no room to do that. The AC condenser is right up against the hood latch. Without buildig a new core suppport it's just not possible.


Cruise in starts in 3 hours. I could take the nova, but I really wanted to "drive 55" :(
 
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Seem to have the same problems as DD Speed Shop on YouTube! He is working on his ‘57 Nomad and trying to get ready for this year’s Power Tour.
Pierre
 
Got the radiator in Wednesday. Took it down to have some brackets welded on it and I added a bung for a drain petcock. I thought about trying to weld them on with my tig, but I suck at welding and if I burned a hole in it I'd be out the bucks for another radiator. And the radiator is right up front and easy to see. I didn't want to be embarrassed by my welds. I also found out the radiator fan is turning backwards and pushing air not pulling. I really didn't check it, just wired it up like it was. Hopefully I can swap the wires and reverse it.

But I can't "drive 55" yet. For some reason my brake pedal isn't solid. Feels good like no air in the system, and doesn't pump up, but sinks to the floor. Also feels like there is very little travel on the pedal. I really don't remember how it felt for my initial test drive last year. I have completely brand new lines, and the flex lines are braided stainless. Thinking the master went bad.

I'm going to get it back on the lift tomorrow and bleed the entire system starting at the right rear. I also seem to have a starting problem when the air cleaner is on. Nothing is hitting or binding on the air cleaner, and it's got a pretty new element. Also doesn't idle very well until it's completely warmed up. I'm considering rethinking my plan on waiting to put on the fuel injection system this next winter. I watched a video of an install of the sniper unit that holley made and they show running a rubber fuel line all the way from the rear of the car and then back again for the return line. Maybe it's me but I have a real problem with having 20ft of rubber line like that. I remember that the NHRA only allows 12" of rubber line on the car period. I realize this isn't a race car, but it just seems like its very dangerous to have that much rubber line at risk of being punctured from a rock of some other road hazard. When I did the nova it has 4" of rubber fuel injection hose right at the intake for engine movement.

I remember how much of a pain the steel fuel line was to bend and put in place, and this is double the work with a return line. Holley offers a fuel filter/regulator that allows you to not run a return line for $200. Funny thing about it is that it has 8an fittings and the sniper throttle body is 6an. And they recommend 3/8" fuel line? As much as I hate thinking about making up a double steel line I think I'll do that and put my money in new plug wires. I have a problem with interference from a high energy source on my digital speedometer causing erratic readings and holley says the sniper is sensitive to the interference also. So maybe I can solve one problem and prevent another one with new wires. Wires are expensive now, I remember getting a really nice set of accell wires for $30 not that long ago. I have some jacobs ones on my camaro with ceramic plug boots and they are great. When I put them on you could instantly feel the difference in the way it ran and revved up. Jacobs seems to be out of business now unfortunately.

Maybe some time this year I'll show Sammy Hagar how to "drive 55" ;)
 
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If the fan is on the front of the rad and pushing into the engine bay it is slightly more efficient than pulling. The cold air is denser and thus better cooling.

How tall is the air cleaner? If using a flat or lowered base, the air flow can be disturbed enough to cause issues. Carbs do not like air flow coming across the top. If you can, buy a K&N Stub Stack 85-0200. Even with a tall element filter it is proven to work.

Seems like the master cylinder is dropping pressure, or a flex line is ballooning a bit If you don’t find any air in the lines.

I have entertained the idea of a Sniper, but not yet. I did in the past a take complete set up out of an ‘85 Firebird and fitted it into a re engined Jeep. Lots of work on the ‘bird wiring harness but never had an issue with it in the almost 30 years in the Jeep.
On the other hand, lots of issues with the Sniper systems. Naturally we are not privy to who‘s fault and what the faults were. DD Speed Shop tried a dual Sniper on his 57 Nomad and ended taking it off so that he could get to the Power Tour. He says he ran out of time, and will try it again later. Electrical Interference was his biggest issue it seems. Also voltage needs to be correct.
Pierre
 
I was able to reverse the polarity of the fan and got it to pull air and not push it. It works very well now, when it comes on the temp drops fast.

The problem with the brake is pretty much what I thought it was. The way the power brake setup was put on they took the push rod and bent it up to line up with the existing hole in the pedal arm which put it at an extreme angle, and the rod was pushed in where it was not allowing the master to return the the fully released position. When I pushed the brakes the angle of the rod made it hit the side of the power booster and the harder I pushed the more it deflected and felt like the brakes were mushy. I took the bolt out of the push rod and it dropped down and that also allowed the master to fully come back to the released position. "See pic" I drilled another hole further down and now the brake are now rock solid.

But now I have a problem with the power windows again. They work then they don't, obviously a bad connection somewhere. I've had them apart several times now. I used the jamb tack connectors that were with the car and now I'm wishing I didn't. I can't take the car anywhere if I can't roll the windows up and lock it up.


pedal pivot.jpg
 
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