I made a Mess Today

K

Kroll

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Dec 23, 2012
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Cause I made my SS collars using my newly restored Sears lathe:)),my first project.Chips all over the place,oil dripping all over the lathe,and it was fun.Serious now,dang it took me a good part of the day just to make 6 collars cause the second two were terrible due to a wandering drill bit.

And I learn a little while applying what ya'll have taught me along the way.I did go by the directions that was given to me in a previous post,but I also made some mistakes. After chucking up the 303 SS I bored a 3/8 hole with a drill bit and notice that the bit was moving just a tad,so I figure I did not have my tailstock dead on but close enough for collars.

After boring then laying out using the parting tool,I move over to my DP.Drilling for the setscrew using a 7/16 bit which is 50% threads for SS.The first two went great but the 3rd the drill bit wonder some which wipe out the 3rd.The 4th was off center so I trash it.So I parted those off and started all over for the last two.
Discovery:1st-On the lathe I took a pilot bit on the second set of collars and started a hole on the SS then went to the 3/8 drill bit and I be dang it was perfect,no wobble at all or that I could see.2rd-Guys while parting all was very smooth which I was surprise,till I got closer to the center and it started making noise.So thanks to people here I remember reading that while parting the center changes so I lower my parting tool,back to a smooth cut.
See next post please---kroll


Guys like I said this took me several hrs and it was alot of work,but dang it was great for my first real project.Drilling,parting,facing,and tomorrow clean the collars using a countersink.On the left side of the pic is the trash ones and on the right is the keepers.I'm tired,feet and back hirts but I'm smiling.

Drill Bits: Guys I need to get me a set of good drill bits that will work on stainless steel of the basic sizes,so without breaking the bank what brand and style(118degree??) would you recommend and if you have a link.If you see something that I'm doing wrong or know a better way please say so.Thanks for the help it was a very fun day-----kroll
 
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Real good, Kroll. I'm glad you had a good maiden voyage.

Couple things if you don't mind... When you're parting, it's really best to use a good bit of oil. Maybe you wiped the parts off for the picture and if so, ignore what I just said. Also, it's generally good practice to just part one piece at a time with just enough sticking-out of the chuck to do one piece. Looks like you got away with using a tailstock center but, if it was anything short of dead-on aligned it could start to pinch the cutting blade. Small point but, I'm just passing on what is generally considered the common methods.

Enough raining on your parade... Again, good work and I'm glad it all went well. Parting SS is no easy task...


Ray
 
Dont ya just love magnets and newspapers got problems wait till cast iron comes along!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
 
some days it is just fun to go to the shop and make a little mess. I needed a roller for the mowing deck. Made it out of a piece of nylon. Easy to machine and makes a mess. Back to the yard to finish mowing. Keep up the good work.
 
Guys thanks for all the comments,Ray it only rains if no one says nothing and I keep making the same mistakes.If I had a do over I would make them one at a time maybe that would help on the quality turnout.One of the things I really need to improve on is how to lay out,all four are alittle different thickness.Todays plans is to just clean up my mess till game time---kroll
 
FWIW ...harbor frt has coupons for 29 bit set w/ index box , coated , for 9.99 .....originally abt $30 ...PROBLEM is more than 1/2 are unusabe due to negative relief/ unequal lips .....( unbelievabley bad grinds )
.... since i hand sharpen ,abt 20 min later they are usable .....compared to $ 50 + /set , i am quite happy w/ circa $80 /hr for sharpening ....pleased snuf to get 3 more sets , even thou i have 2 others at different machines.......have had no noticeable problems on 1018 & drill rod....BUT since i hand grind , a dull bit is usable in less than 10seconds....& in home shop . i dont have to get 100 holes / grind ..........
fwiw #2 ,....when hand sharpening OR if you want a hole closer to nominal on any bit , pre drill a size under ...then the point doesent guide the final bit & any unequal lips are mitigated to the point of not a problem .......almost like reaming ......holes will be nominal to a couple thou over ,depending
fwiw #3 ....slight rounding of the lips where they join the shank of the drill & you have a pretty fair reamer cutting on size, all else true
FWIW #4 the closer to abt 5 thou undrsize of final hole size , the truer the reamer size will be even thou specs say 15 thou for MACHINE reamers ...for the penultimate in accuracy, a few metric bits are in order for staying around 5 thou under on commonly used holes
FWIW #5.,,,,in an emergency , a milling cutter makes a good counter bore , OR A drill bit GROUND FLAT ON END W/ LIP RELIEF ..cent r up on the hole first w/ a drill bit , then change to the endmil or flat drill
best wishes
doc
 
Just a small tip. If dropping off the parted pieces is causing problems, don't use your fingers, but put a Jacobs chuck on, and chuck a small drill or some small rnd stock that will catch the parts. Run it up into the drilled hole. Then you won't have to dig through the chip pan.

I also noticed you have the typical sling oil marks lathes are good at on the wall behind the chuck. Might get a piece of plastic for a temp shield if your RPM is high enough to cause it to sling oil there. That's one bane of putting a lathe on a wall like that.
 
LOL,Tony I did not notice that till I was cleaning up,all smiles.Tks for the tip using the rod---kroll
 
Glad to see you getting your "feet wet" as I am also a newby on this site. I recently had to make a series of external threaded, smooth internal bushings for a project. It may help to say to do one at a time and control consistency. A trick I found helpful, as all of my bushing had to be the same, I zero my dials when I have accomplished the finished product. I make all of my initial cuts normally, starting on "O" and tracking my progress. When I have fininshed my first piece, I re-zero my dials to the finished cut so I know where I need to stop. Cutting the second piece is easy then as you do not have to worry about the cuts in procession. Just work to the established "O". Piece them off one at a time when completed using plenty of oil. When I drill the center of someting like you are doing I find it more accurate to drill only as far as necessary for a single piece to be produced so as to have as little stock exposed outside the chuck as necessary. Looks like you have a good basic beginning so don't be hard on yourself, we have all been there. Lord knows I have made my share of messes. That is how we learn. Hope this makes sense and helps some.
 
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