How to Unload/Unbox new 14x40 lathe

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I lifted my 12x24 lathe with “on the job” training, it’s considerably lighter than yours. I learn’t a lot, but now recognize this was not the time to be learning about rigging… I should have sought the help of someone who knew what they were doing…

If you do decide to do it by yourself, my recommendation is to always have a backup. What should I have in place if my engine hoist breaks etc. etc.
(Of course this is the ideal which won’t always be possible, like when you lift a lathe onto the stand, by the time I got to this step though I had already used my engine hoist quite a few times and was comfortable that the risk of this single point of failure was very low)
 
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With your mind....

Go slow and proceed with caution, if at all possible enlist help from someone who has done it before. I've reached out for help on this forum and been very pleased to have a couple of guys come down and help out.

Congrats and good luck.

John
 
It took me and 2 friends with 2 engine hoists 2 days to fit my mill and lathe between door frames of my shop (2" narrower than std door frames.) Then another day for me (alone) to get the lathe up on its stands.

Mill G0730 Grizzly
Lathe 4003G
 
You are lucky. Very lucky. Deck screws should never be used in a shear application. Drywall screws should not be used in shear either. Yes, they hang drywall with them, but the shear load is minimal. Deck screws are meant for just that, to hold the decking down to structure.
If one wants to assemble a structure for load, one needs to use bolts, GRK RSS screws, or similar.
I disagree with you.
I did it that way, will continue doing things that way and will recommend to others that they too can do it that way.
 
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I disagree with you.
I did it that way, will continue doing things that way and will recommend to others that they too can do it that way.
I recommend that others not follow unsafe practices by utilizing improper materials, especially when life and limb are at stake. You can do it however you want in your garage but it is clearly an unsafe practice. Just because you got away with it doesn't mean the next person will.
 
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Hello all - I will be getting a 14x40 Lathe in the very near future and I seem to be stuck on how to actually get the lathe off of the pallet it will be on.

Used 3 1/2" deck screws to assemble it.
I could lift an entire tractor that weighed most of a couple tons.
Was poor at the time so kept the lumber clean.
After finishing the task I disassembled the gantry and returned the lumber to Home Depot.

You are lucky. Very lucky. Deck screws should never be used in a shear application.
@Ultradog MN what you suggest is not really for a beginner, and while wood is very, very strong, it is easy to make mistakes as a beginner.

@7milesup you are technically right, and GRK fasteners are at least rated for shear, but perhaps the argument is detracting from the original question: "How do I do X?"

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@jareese I shipped a 3800 lb milling machine. The shipper had found the original pallet was defective (rotting, crumbling) - so he lifted up the entire affair onto a sturdy pallet and banded it all together. So my mill was teetery and up 8" off the concrete floor. Not to mention that Mills are very top heavy.

This is a similar situation to what you have, but with higher risk. I solved it, but I have 20 years experience of moving machines 2000lbs+ all by myself.

You haven't described your specific situation, but I will assume it is in a garage. You cannot put any side loads or large downward loads on your ceiling trusses in a garage. So you have to do it from the 'ground up'...

First you need to assess your risks. Lathes are top heavy, and will fall forward and backward very easily. Everything you do should avoid this problem. You need to safely take the weight off the pallet.

Your safest method is to lift it using a gantry crane, from the lathe bed, very near the headstock. In most large cities you can rent a gantry crane with a chain hoist. Do not use a lifting strap wrapped around the lathe bed - if you wrap it with the lead screw in the loop, your lathe will be seriously damaged. How to use a strap is to wrap it in the web so that it goes in the holes between headstock and tailstock - NOT across the ways. The strap for a 2000lb lathe must be rated at 8000lbs lifting capacity. For lifting, a 4:1 safety margin is good practice.

Heavy duty engine hosts can be rented also, but you will find it difficult to position the legs to make the lift possible. An experienced rigger can do it, but it is hard for a 'first-timer'.

You can also block it up using steel bars and wooden blocking, but that is another advanced technique. There are a dozen other ways to do this, but the gantry crane is going to be the easiest and safest. If you are at all in doubt - get a rigger or an experienced volunteer. You can get killed if you screw up.


If I were closer, I'd show up and it'd be done in about 2 hours.
 
Rabler,

You sound like you have done a bit of rigging and could do that job easily.
I do not doubt you could.
And not slight your skill but it is not a difficult one after all.
I too have done some rigging and could do that job.
My way would take longer than your couple of hours.
But I could do it safely and effectively - as I described.
Too often someone will say;
"You can't do that"
But what they really mean is,
"I can't."
It is unfortunate how on forums like this that the fearful, defeatist attitude of those who can't often prevails.
Lastly
My post that you deleted was not snark.
He offered no proof of his position other than to imply "because I said so".
The last person who silenced me that way was my mom. Since she's been gone I don't let people use that as an argument :)
 
The manual shows lifting points using 1" round bar. I used those and a engine hoist.
 
I think you intended that to be directed @Dabbler, not me.

I did this one by myself. Drove to Cleveland, where they loaded it up on my trailer with a bridge crane. At home I designed and built a gantry crane, engineered to lift several times the lathe weight of nearly 10,000 lbs (yes, 5 tons). Used the gantry, skates, and a pry bar to move it into place. By myself.
It took a couple of months. Next time I moved it with a 12000 lb capacity telehandler. Took a couple hours with some help from a friend.

IMG_3223.JPGIMG_3307.JPGIMG_3325.JPGIMG_4631.JPG.
 
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The OP is on target being concerned about moving a 1600 lbs. lathe. Credit to you sir for understanding how quickly a top-heavy machine can end up on its side. And avoid your natural inclination to try to right it if it starts to go!

I took my Grizzly G0709 off the trailer with a HF gantry crane. My shop has a 9' 6" ceiling, no problem with clearance in my case. But you have a 6' 8" - 7' tall door to get under.

There are multiple threads here where a member had their mill/lathe set at the entrance of their garage and got it under the door header. A typical method is to have it set in front of the door via a rented fork lift. Set it on multiple 3/4" black pipe rollers and pull it into the garage with a come-along. Once in the garage, you're all set. The dicey moment could be when it's on rollers on the slope of your driveway wanting to head toward your mailbox.

Members have gotten them off a pallet by cutting away the pallet to clear an engine hoist. Lift a side, pull the chunks of pallet, and stack some piece of the pallet under the end so you're creeping up on the full drop. Repeat at the opposite end of the lathe placing a little less height of pallet boards under that end. Repeat back and forth until it's on the ground. You're not lifting the lathe completely; no issues with a 2000 lbs. capacity engine hoist.

You may also consult a local rigging company; they have the proper equipment and experience. You can always make more money for paying the riggers, if the load gets away from you it could be life ending.

Bruce


20151005_203622 a.jpg
 
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