Home made Fly Cutter

[T Bredehoft]

Besides possibly a better grip on the head, why would a cap screw hold better?

In the US of A, grub screws (locally called "set screws") are hardened, as opposed to being just grade 8 or what ever. Vibration of the tool won't distort (blunt) the head of the screw as much.

 

[basildoug10]

You could also use your facemill with only one toolbit in it. You could put the other two bits, where they wouldn't cut if balance is an issue.

Hi, I also thought of perhaps using my original facemill with just the one tool bit and leave the other two bits out. But I did not have the courage to try it. If I could use the tool with one toolbit instead of all 3, I will be very pleased. So I am definitely going to try it with one bit. Thank you for the help.

 

[Mark_f]

I am impressed with your little flycutter. I think it came out nice even with your mistake in the slot, which doesn't really matter as long as you run it the other direction. Just tell everyone it is a left handed cutter. Someone once asked me why all my mill arbors have left hand threads on the ends. I told them because I am left handed and stand on the other end of the machine. While that was partially true, the real reason was , It was easier to single point the threads making them because the tool ran left to right on the lathe and I wasn't threading to a shoulder. (god I miss the smileys here).

 

[18w]

Basildoug, your flycutter turned out well and your next one will be better because of the experience making this one. If you look on youtube for Toms Techniques he has an excellent tutorial on flycutting. He also has a great drawing of a properly sharpened bit for a fly cutter on his website also called Toms Techniques. I would give you a link but unfortunately I can sharpen tools better than I can operate a damn computer.

Regards
Darrell

 

[basildoug10]

I am impressed with your little flycutter. I think it came out nice even with your mistake in the slot, which doesn't really matter as long as you run it the other direction. Just tell everyone it is a left handed cutter. Someone once asked me why all my mill arbors have left hand threads on the ends. I told them because I am left handed and stand on the other end of the machine. While that was partially true, the real reason was , It was easier to single point the threads making them because the tool ran left to right on the lathe and I wasn't threading to a shoulder. (god I miss the smileys here).

I am impressed with your little flycutter. I think it came out nice even with your mistake in the slot, which doesn't really matter as long as you run it the other direction. Just tell everyone it is a left handed cutter. Someone once asked me why all my mill arbors have left hand threads on the ends. I told them because I am left handed and stand on the other end of the machine. While that was partially true, the real reason was , It was easier to single point the threads making them because the tool ran left to right on the lathe and I wasn't threading to a shoulder. (god I miss the smileys here).

Hi Mark, thanks for the comments about my fly cutter, ( the first real tool that I have ever made) well it is definitely not in the same league as your tooling that I have seen on this forum, but your collection of tools which you have made is what got me going, to start making some of my own.
Your comment about the "left handed incident" hilarious,
Regards Basil

 

[basildoug10]

Basildoug, your flycutter turned out well and your next one will be better because of the experience making this one. If you look on youtube for Toms Techniques he has an excellent tutorial on flycutting. He also has a great drawing of a properly sharpened bit for a fly cutter on his website also called Toms Techniques. I would give you a link but unfortunately I can sharpen tools better than I can operate a damn computer.

Regards
Darrell

Hi Darrel, thank you for the info, I will certainly take a look. I re-sharpend the toolbit for the fly cutter today in an attempt to improve the cutting, although the surface looked smoother, it is still far off from what I seen. I really need to learn how to sharpen tool bits for the fly cutter.
Regards Basil.

 

[Mark_f]

Hi Mark, thanks for the comments about my fly cutter, ( the first real tool that I have ever made) well it is definitely not in the same league as your tooling that I have seen on this forum, but your collection of tools which you have made is what got me going, to start making some of my own.
Your comment about the "left handed incident" hilarious,
Regards Basil

Thanks. If I gave you any inspiration, I did my job.

Hi Mark, thanks for the comments about my fly cutter, ( the first real tool that I have ever made) well it is definitely not in the same league as your tooling that I have seen on this forum, but your collection of tools which you have made is what got me going, to start making some of my own.
Your comment about the "left handed incident" hilarious,
Regards Basil

Thanks. If I inspired you in any way, I did my job in life.

 

[magu]

Basil, I just made my own fly cutter after reading though your thread so thank you for the inspiration! As for the surface finish in the slot, I has the same "rippled" finish. I made my 3/8" slot with a 3/8" end mill and found that by bumping it over just a hair (so I was only cutting one wall) I got a much better surface finish. Next time I think I would use a slightly smaller cutter and finish up to the tool width so I could get a good surface and a nice sliding fit.

 

[darkzero]

You might want to replace your cap screws with set or grub screws, will reduce some of the balance problems, also will hold the bits better.

Besides possibly a better grip on the head, why would a cap screw hold better?

In the US of A, grub screws (locally called "set screws") are hardened, as opposed to being just grade 8 or what ever. Vibration of the tool won't distort (blunt) the head of the screw as much.

Also, set screws normally come as cup points (here in the US anyway). Cup points typically dig into the part being held (depending on hardness of course) so they grip better. You can specify which point type you want when buying from a supplier like Mcmaster but if you buy set screws from a hardware store or something, cup points are pretty much the standard for set screws.

 

[Andre]

Also, set screws normally come as cup points (here in the US anyway). Cup points typically dig into the part being held (depending on hardness of course) so they grip better. You can specify which point type you want when buying from a supplier like Mcmaster but if you buy set screws from a hardware store or something, cup points are pretty much the standard for set screws.

Very true, on cheap HSS you can actually see where the cup has dug in. If possible, get ones with a serrated cup. They grip like a monster!