Help With Powered Hacksaw Blade

Which one would be best?

  • http://www.grizzly.com/products/202-3-4-x-1-x-035-x-10-TPI-Raker-Bandsaw-Blade/H4346

  • http://www.grizzly.com/products/101-x-1-x-035-x-10-TPI-Raker-Tool-Steel-Bandsaw-Blade/G8795


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Getting back to the original poster's question. I have a Marvel Armstrong-Blum power hacksaw that takes 12" blades. I use 14" Starrett red, blue, and green stripe blades in it. To cut the blades to fit my saw I use a abrasive cutoff wheel to cut blade to length and a Norton abrasive stone in a die grinder to grind the hole for the locator pin, works great.
If you try to drill the locator holes in any way with these Starrett blades you will have a lot of broken blades to use as blanks for kitchen knives.
 
I have a powered hacksaw that is new to me. I broke the blade to it the other day. I was looking for new ones today & those things are expensive. The one that was on it is 14"x1" x.05". I'm thinking about getting a bands blade from grizzly to cut my own. Any of you do this. What do you use to poke the new hole? Do you think http://www.grizzly.com/products/202-3-4-x-1-x-035-x-10-TPI-Raker-Bandsaw-Blade/H4346 would work? There is also http://www.grizzly.com/products/101-x-1-x-035-x-10-TPI-Raker-Tool-Steel-Bandsaw-Blade/G8795 .
Victor Machine exch. victornet Probably has what you need, plus advice.
Please don't make your own......BLJHB
 
Victor Machine exch. victornet Probably has what you need, plus advice.
Please don't make your own......BLJHB
Lol. Really? Why not? Isn't that kinda the point of this hobby is to make your own?

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I have three 12" Starrett blades, that you can have for the postage. They are used, but show NO signs of ware, except for the yellow paint. Very sharp. and no missing teeth. Minor surface rust, but I will bead blast them and put some primer on them. ---- John

John
Thank you. They arrived today. They were very well packaged. I was impressed with the way this thing cut with the old blade but after putting one that you sent me it looked like slicing butter. I had to make a new tinsioner to reach the shorter blade but it was a good reason to play with the mill. The city that I bought it from sawed wood with it & I've been told that wood dauls a metal blade. Of course I use my wood saw pretty often to cut metal & it seems to do OK. Actually it does a better job cutting wood after cutting metal. I lost 2 inches of cutting but it is so nice to have my saw back.
 
I really need to take time to clean my old power hacksaw up - I got it free for bringing it home, and it had several blades with it. I'm down to 3 now after doing some stupid things that broke a few blades. My saw is a Keller Hy-Duty - all cast iron, 1 hp 3 phase motor, belt and gear drive. Has a foot pedal to lift the arm, which is very heavy, and has a cam that lifts the saw on the return stroke. It does have a coolant pump, but it is unhooked and I have no idea if it would work - probably would need to be re-built. Everything is pretty tight on the saw, so I just oil the bearings and use it when I need to cut something! The whole saw is cast iron and solid steel.
 
Mine is a bit of a mix of repurposed, home made, & cobbled together. They done some really stupid things building it & it is going to be a pain making it right. They welded the bearing to the shaft. I might be better to make my own & seal this one.
 
I just ordered a couple 14 x 1 blades from KBCtools, price was only $5 so hopefully they are not total junk.
 
They welded the bearing to the shaft.

Wow! Short-sighted repair that got them thru the day......let someone else deal with it later.....
(actually sooner, as they probably damaged the bearing!)

-brino
 
I will probably rebuild it myself just because but I'm thinking the KRW Model T head table it is mounted on may be worth then the saw. It is a nice table for it to be mounted to but I bet there is someone out there really wanting one of these tables. There is several more repairs then just a new shaft & bearing to do on this thing. Probably more work then starting from a cast. I may actually end up using it to make a cast.
 
I really wish I could edit post on here.

I think this saw will actually take a wider & thicker blade but that is what was already on it.

This saw will never cut square as is. It needs rebuilt.
 
I'll be interested to see what you get from KBC Tools on the blades - the blades I have are BIPCO, which is what they show a photo of. I haven't cut much that is very hard, but the seem to cut reasonably well. Mine are 10 tooth - I see they are out of stock on those right now. I think I can use a longer blade with a little adjustment - need to take a couple measurements. I can certainly use a wider blade as it is right now.
 
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