Help With Powered Hacksaw Blade

[kingmt01]

I'll have to look to see if it does make a difference.

 

[4GSR]

Dad & I built a power hacksaw many years ago that used a 12" long blade. He set up the blade holders with two different size screws. One size 8-32 for a typical 1/2" x 12 hacksaw blade and 1/4-20 for a 1" x 12 blade. The 1" x 12" blade was made from cut up bandsaw blade with about a 10 or 12 tooth. Holes were punched using a Whitley hand punch. And yes, bandsaw blade does work just fine!

 

[george wilson]

That is good to know. I had thought that blades made from my thick bi metal Starrett blades might be o.k.,if you can get the curve out of them.

 

[kingmt01]

It was said that Grizzly blades were junk. So where do you get the best blade for the buck?

 

[4GSR]

Last ones were Starrett blades. Used to use Morse blades and Lenox. I try to stay away Asian stuff but here lately that's all I can find

 

[SEK_22Hornet]

Wholesale Tool has the best price I've found - I need to order more of the same size (14 x 1 x .050). They have HSS blades for $4.25 each http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...oduct_name/WT+High+Speed+Power+Hacksaw+Blades and Red Stripe for $10.15 http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pr...rett+Redstripe+High+Speed+Power+Hacksaw+Blade. They also have Morse in 10 and 14 tooth for around $15-!18 each. I've broken more than I've wore out - I'm learning what I can and can't cut on my saw, sometimes the hard way!

 

[benmychree]

I have a power hacksaw that uses 14" blades and have quite a lot of them NOS; what width and depth of blade does your machine take? I think mine are 1 1/4" in depth and various tooth pitches, I would be willing to sell you some at a good price; contact me at
York@napanet.net
John York

 

[NodakGary]

How did it break? If it tore straight thru the blade from top to bottom, mayhaps you could silver solder it back together. A link to Tom's Techniques has a very good video on silver soldering broken bandsaw blades to repair them. I have built the jig he shows and after a couple failed attempts to tig weld my broken blade back together, I soldered it and then cut it apart a couple more times and resoldered it back together for the practice. Good luck
Nodak Gary

 

[kingmt01]

How did it break? If it tore straight thru the blade from top to bottom, mayhaps you could silver solder it back together. A link to Tom's Techniques has a very good video on silver soldering broken bandsaw blades to repair them. I have built the jig he shows and after a couple failed attempts to tig weld my broken blade back together, I soldered it and then cut it apart a couple more times and resoldered it back together for the practice. Good luck
Nodak Gary

I like this idea. I may try it. I need to get some silver solder. It isn't straight but I may be able to shorten it a bit to make it that way. I don't really remember right now what it looked like.

Solder is another topic I don't know much about. I solder electronics & have done some in plumbing but never tin/steel parts.

 

[PeteH]

Hi kingmt01,

I have never heard of using bandsaw blades on a power hack saw.
On my power hacksaw the blades are substantially thick.....but the whole machine is way bigger than I've ever needed.
A thicker (stiffer) blade will wander less.
I wonder about any design differences(maybe tooth set?).....hacksaw blades travel backwards in the kerf, bandsaw blades do not.....typically.

I believe the blades should have hardened teeth on a softer band, but how soft is the question.
Did it get hardened some by the (likely) induction hardening of the tooth edge?
Is it soft enough to drill?

I do remember seeing a way to "spot temper" a piece of thin hardened stock. I believe it was in this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Mode...48&sr=8-1&keywords=complete+modern+blacksmith

It went something like this:
-cut the head off a nail
-chuck the nail in a drill press (flat end down)
-spin the nail against the workpiece at the point you want the hole
-when it gets red hot place it into a bucket of ashes or insulation to cool slowly
-when cool you should be able to drill it

I'll try to double check the book when I get home tonight, and repost if there's any substantial difference.

-brino

You can heat the nail with a torch and then press it against the blade, too. But I prefer the drillpress method: less chance of error. And I use a bucket of granular limestone (not the powdered stuff, which is messy) for "controlled" cooling.

PeteH