Help with dc motor test

Could't you just use jumper cables from your car/truck to see if it runs? You could disconnect to + terminal on the car to prevent any issue with back EMF.
Robert
 
hook A1,F1,F3 together, put a 12v positive battery charge there
hook A2,F2,F4 together, put a negative 12v battery charge there and let her run
if she will run at all, it will run like this
 
I will give that a go later tonight and report back. I opened up the cover and it appears the leads are labeled well enough it should be pretty easy to hook up. I may even paint a mark on the shaft and get out my phone strobe tachometer and see how fast that spins it, just for fun.
 
The lawn mower battery makes it spin, took about a second to start spinning, then sped up. It certainly didn’t spin fast, and I didn’t want to leave it hooked up long enough to see how fast it got going. I didn’t want to damage anything. But in the 5 seconds or so it was hooked up, it didn’t explode, smoke, or have any bearing noises, so it is a keeper!

thanks for the help everyone!

Now I just need to find a project to use it on, some money for said project, money for a power supply, and...
 
Look at the KB DC motor controllers. That is pretty large HP though.
Robert
 
Looking at your data sheet, it appears to be straight shunt. There is an "interpole" connection internally but no leads to the outside. "Shunt" is the original word for what is now considered "Parallel". It simply means the field is connected "in parallel" with the armature. This is the most speed stable configuration.

There is no need for a regulated power supply. The technology predates Tesla's AC current, dating back to Edison's original DC power. This is just a modern implementation. Most modern "consumer" grade devices such as treadmills and winches use DC motors with a permanant magnet field. The permanant magnet eliminates the need for field windings or connections. There is the possibility of mechanical shocks causing loss (damage to) of the field. And the inability to drive the motor above base speed. Your motor eliminates many of those problems.

What you have is a step above such machines, albeit somewhat more powerful. It can provide power for a machine tool such as a lathe or milling machine, with speed control from virtually naught to slightly above rated speed. Starting with:
http://www.hudsontelcom.com/uploads/ShopElex.pdf
will provide some basic information. The bibliography has several more references that will take you further. By then, you would have enough knowledge to look for detailed information. Little math is needed, you are looking for hookup information, not engineering.

For basic connections with base speed with no speed control, use the 120 volt single phase power available from any residential service. Take a line from the breaker to a (2 pole) 30 Amp switch and then a rectifier. I usually use a "block" or bridge rated at 40 Amps and 600 volts even for low power, low voltage applications. They're dirt cheap(<$10) and simple to use. I would recommend 30 Amp wiring and breaker. 120 volts AC will yield some 150 volts DC. I originally included directions for 240 volts, but that would have been slightly above the top of the envelope. You will eventually reach the point where a 240 volt feed is needed. But there will be some elements between the power and the motor.

Motor connections are: L1=A1+F1. L2=A2+F4. F2+F3 are tied together and insulated. It is highly recommended there be a diode connected reverse polarity across L1 and L2. When the motor is powered down, it becomes a generator. The power provided as a generator can seriously damage the controls as the motor spins down. This is where "dynamic braking"(DB) is applied as you learn more. For now, a shunt diode connected backwards will suffice.

The brushes are critical to operation. They don't need to be checked every day or even once a week. They are a long life component. They, however, must be maintained above minimum length. As well as the commutator must be smooth with a light chocolate color. Use of a "canvas wipe" makes a huge difference following stoning. The brush rigging must be protected from dust and chips. Any pitting of the comm is indicative of serious trouble.

I could "lecture" for months on DC motors, how to apply them and control them. I won't get into it here because even this text is getting extensive.(and boring) But fully understanding the subject involves a lot of study of DC. Such is, today, considered mostly "archaic" knowledge reserved for college level DC engineering theory. I'm an "old school" scholar, having learned DC when I enlisted (at age 17) and was sent to a ship built in the 1940s. Having a very basic knowledge of DC motors when I enlisted provided some insight into the archaic systems of old ships. What I missed not going to high school was made up from working with the machines.

.
 
Bi11Hudson said:
Looking at your data sheet, it appears to be straight shunt. There is an "interpole" connection internally but no leads to the outside. "Shunt" is the original word for what is now considered "Parallel". It simply means the field is connected "in parallel" with the armature. This is the most speed stable configuration.

There is no need for a regulated power supply. The technology predates Tesla's AC current, dating back to Edison's original DC power. This is just a modern implementation. Most modern "consumer" grade devices such as treadmills and winches use DC motors with a permanant magnet field. The permanant magnet eliminates the need for field windings or connections. There is the possibility of mechanical shocks causing loss (damage to) of the field. And the inability to drive the motor above base speed. Your motor eliminates many of those problems.

What you have is a step above such machines, albeit somewhat more powerful. It can provide power for a machine tool such as a lathe or milling machine, with speed control from virtually naught to slightly above rated speed. Starting with:
http://www.hudsontelcom.com/uploads/ShopElex.pdf
will provide some basic information. The bibliography has several more references that will take you further. By then, you would have enough knowledge to look for detailed information. Little math is needed, you are looking for hookup information, not engineering.

For basic connections with base speed with no speed control, use the 120 volt single phase power available from any residential service. Take a line from the breaker to a (2 pole) 30 Amp switch and then a rectifier. I usually use a "block" or bridge rated at 40 Amps and 600 volts even for low power, low voltage applications. They're dirt cheap(<$10) and simple to use. I would recommend 30 Amp wiring and breaker. 120 volts AC will yield some 150 volts DC. I originally included directions for 240 volts, but that would have been slightly above the top of the envelope. You will eventually reach the point where a 240 volt feed is needed. But there will be some elements between the power and the motor.

Motor connections are: L1=A1+F1. L2=A2+F4. F2+F3 are tied together and insulated. It is highly recommended there be a diode connected reverse polarity across L1 and L2. When the motor is powered down, it becomes a generator. The power provided as a generator can seriously damage the controls as the motor spins down. This is where "dynamic braking"(DB) is applied as you learn more. For now, a shunt diode connected backwards will suffice.

The brushes are critical to operation. They don't need to be checked every day or even once a week. They are a long life component. They, however, must be maintained above minimum length. As well as the commutator must be smooth with a light chocolate color. Use of a "canvas wipe" makes a huge difference following stoning. The brush rigging must be protected from dust and chips. Any pitting of the comm is indicative of serious trouble.

I could "lecture" for months on DC motors, how to apply them and control them. I won't get into it here because even this text is getting extensive.(and boring) But fully understanding the subject involves a lot of study of DC. Such is, today, considered mostly "archaic" knowledge reserved for college level DC engineering theory. I'm an "old school" scholar, having learned DC when I enlisted (at age 17) and was sent to a ship built in the 1940s. Having a very basic knowledge of DC motors when I enlisted provided some insight into the archaic systems of old ships. What I missed not going to high school was made up from working with the machines.

.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. Would something like this get me started?

Amazon.com: Rectifier, 2Pc Single Phase Diode Bridge Rectifiers 400A 1600V with High Power 4 Terminal for Conversion Current Output : Electronics

Buy Rectifier, 2Pc Single Phase Diode Bridge Rectifiers 400A 1600V with High Power 4 Terminal for Conversion Current Output: Power Converters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
 
Actually, I had more in mind:

Taiss 4Pcs KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier AC to DC 1000V 50A Full Wave Single Phase Metal Housing Bridge Rectifier: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Taiss 4Pcs KBPC5010 Bridge Rectifier AC to DC 1000V 50A Full Wave Single Phase Metal Housing Bridge Rectifier: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com

One to serve as the rectifier AC to DC, a second to serve as the "flyback" protection diode. And a couple of spares to sit on the shelf just in case. . .

The flyback diode is called something else in industrial work. Some fancy word that means the same thing. Simply use the DC Plus and Minus as a diode. Leave the AC leads open. The difference is 1.5 volts drop VS 0.7 volts. No big deal. . .

.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top