Help me dial this PETG in...

[MikeWi]

I'll cast another vote for Hatchbox. So far, they're the best brand I've used for PLA and PETG. I will say I don't like their ABS. It's very low odor, but that's because it's not really 100% ABS. You can prove that by trying to dissolve it in acetone. You can reduce stringing with PETG with higher acceleration and travel speed. so that the plastic is snapped instead of stretched when traveling to a new point. Doesn't make up for not having everything else in tune of course, but I can print PETG just as easily and cleanly as PLA.

 

[weston1968]

I'll cast another vote for Hatchbox. So far, they're the best brand I've used for PLA and PETG. I will say I don't like their ABS. It's very low odor, but that's because it's not really 100% ABS. You can prove that by trying to dissolve it in acetone. You can reduce stringing with PETG with higher acceleration and travel speed. so that the plastic is snapped instead of stretched when traveling to a new point. Doesn't make up for not having everything else in tune of course, but I can print PETG just as easily and cleanly as PLA.

I am glad that you have the magic that I have not, please share. I use Ultimaker as my slicer. Can you post scan of all of your settings so that I may try.

 

[great white]

Not sure why guys are having a hard time with petg.
I print petg with little more than adjusting the nozzle and bed temps.
Always turns out fine.
It’s like the ease of printing pla with nearly the same physical properties as abs.

This was my last petg print:

Wrench/handle for the drawbar on my mill instead of using a wrench. Theres a socket buried inside it to give it the hardness to deal with the hex on the bar.

All I did was bump the bed temp up close to the glass temp and put the nozzle temp in the middle of the recommended range on the spool. Just made sire my z offset was good and hit “print”.

Then a set of axa holder mounts:

I run a creality cr10 v3 with an e3d volcano hot end. Bltouch and solid bed mounts. I do run a custom version marlin though. Firmware doesn’t effect settings, it just gives me more utilities and options.

 

[weston1968]

Everyone has a different view of acceptable. I print parts that have 0.8mm walls that are visible inside parts that must look as if they are machined with absolutely no stringing or nubbing. PETG will never give you the detail you can obtain from a quality PLA. What you are showing is perfect for it's purpose and I would be happy with it.

 

[MikeWi]

I am glad that you have the magic that I have not, please share. I use Ultimaker as my slicer. Can you post scan of all of your settings so that I may try.

That won't work. Not only do I use a different slicer, but the profile for my customized Ender 3 is going to be different from whatever you use. Lots of tips on youtube for tuning the printer though. One thing I had read was that PETG prefers to be laid down rather than squished, and to raise the Z offset by .2 when using it. Seems to work well for me.

 

[MikeWi]

PETG will never give you the detail you can obtain from a quality PLA. What you are showing is perfect for it's purpose and I would be happy with it.

it can actually. he's just printing with large layers because why not? I don't know if I have any good example lying around but I'll take a look.

 

[weston1968]

That won't work. Not only do I use a different slicer, but the profile for my customized Ender 3 is going to be different from whatever you use. Lots of tips on youtube for tuning the printer though. One thing I had read was that PETG prefers to be laid down rather than squished, and to raise the Z offset by .2 when using it. Seems to work well for me.

I have been working/testing over a dozen brands for over two years. I am well beyond the generalized "how to do petg". I am shipping parts in PETG. I have over 1000 hours of tuning different brands.

 

[WobblyHand]

This thread is living on, which is fine by me. Some interesting stuff comes out.

I can print non-soggy PETG ok. It doesn't seem to be all that difficult. The problem I ran into was the filament was just plain wet and I had never printed it before. After I dried the "factory fresh sealed" filament for a couple of weeks, it printed just fine at the original settings in PrusaSlicer. But when it was wet, it didn't want to print at all. This was Prusa "Prusament" PETG filament, so it was surprising. The bag was vacuum tight, but the filament as received behaved as if it had a lot of water in it. Only recommendation I can make is to dry your stuff before using, no matter who it came from.

 

[MikeWi]

This is pretty old, but here's PETG at 200mms. I don't remember what caused the flaw near the bottom.

 

[weston1968]

One of the nicer looking PETG prints that I have seen. What brand did yo use? That is an impressive speed for no shadows.