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Heavy 10 Paint
- Thread starter Don T
- Start date
I deal a fair amount with Sherwin Williams. Just talked to the rep a week ago about painting machines and he suggested Sher-Kem. Not sure what you have there, not that it matters now.
Looking forward to seeing your lathe all purdy'd up.
Looking forward to seeing your lathe all purdy'd up.
I use Rust-o-leum Smoke Gray for all my machine tools. Brush only. A quart will do a couple of machines usually...
Ted
Ted
Same here.
Harbor freight has a detail gun for 15 bucks, 10 on sale.
Get a syringe from the vet supply, large one, use it to draw paint from can.
Place whatever thinner is required in a small jar, we use a film can so it can be covered.
Draw correct amount of thinner after paint, hold finger on end and shake, cleans syringe and squirt into cup on sprayer.
Gloves on...
Cap cup and shake to mix.
Mix on thick side so minimal overspray.
We use the smoke gray, but there are 2 different ones!
Home depot thins with thinner
Lowes thins with acetone or thinner.
It will take 2 quarts.
The cast iron is somewhat rough and it is filled in with some different fillers depending on age.
Multiple coats of paint will fill these voids and the surface will self level as you go.
Once it looks good it may take a month to fully cure, just be careful assembling.
Thick paint on motor base and headstock parts, inside bed also as cleanup better with less crannies.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Funny..... I just picked up a spray can of Rust-Oleum smoke gray the other day to test it out. It has a lot of blue in it compared to my normal go-to color of Massey Ferguson Gray.
Also, zylene is also a good thinner for paints such as the "hammered" types.
Another addition to paint is Japan Drier, which will speed up the drying time.
Also, zylene is also a good thinner for paints such as the "hammered" types.
Another addition to paint is Japan Drier, which will speed up the drying time.
I painted a 1940 Bridgeport, one of the worse decisions of my life. I stripped it down, cleaned all the surfaces and applied the etching epoxy primer, got a beautiful finish, I waited a week, went to apply the paint, the primer fell off in sheets. Restripped the mill base, cleaned it completely again, reapplied the primer, waited a week, again the primer came off in sheets. I completely stripped and cleaned the mill base again, switch to a different brand of paint, it would not stick. Over the next 2-3 months, I washed it with white kerosene, acetone, muriatic acid, brake-Kleen, and other products, even carbon tetrachloride, nothing would stick.
One of my customers, made industrial coatings of all kinds, I mentioned to him the issue with the mill base, he asked a few questions and said he would need to think about it. About a week later, he came over to the shop, pulled out somekind of cleaning prep rags, wipe down 3 or 4 areas, put the rags back into their containers and left. About 3 or 4 days later he called and said he believed he had an answer. He gave me some prep wash, some primer and some blue-grey machine coating. I followed the hand written instructions to the letter, all application done out doors, wearing a respirator, keep everyone else clearly out of the area. after the prep wash had dried, the rags were extremely dirty, I applied the primer, waiting the required 3 days, I checked and the primer was solidly attached to the metal, I applied the paint, all went perfectly, the coverage and finish were great.
That was roughly 20 yrs ago, the coating engineer has passed on (cancer (?)), the coating company move to some place in Kentucky, and recently the paint is starting to peel off, in sheets, off the mill base again. Since that time I have not or will I ever paint any machine again.
One of my customers, made industrial coatings of all kinds, I mentioned to him the issue with the mill base, he asked a few questions and said he would need to think about it. About a week later, he came over to the shop, pulled out somekind of cleaning prep rags, wipe down 3 or 4 areas, put the rags back into their containers and left. About 3 or 4 days later he called and said he believed he had an answer. He gave me some prep wash, some primer and some blue-grey machine coating. I followed the hand written instructions to the letter, all application done out doors, wearing a respirator, keep everyone else clearly out of the area. after the prep wash had dried, the rags were extremely dirty, I applied the primer, waiting the required 3 days, I checked and the primer was solidly attached to the metal, I applied the paint, all went perfectly, the coverage and finish were great.
That was roughly 20 yrs ago, the coating engineer has passed on (cancer (?)), the coating company move to some place in Kentucky, and recently the paint is starting to peel off, in sheets, off the mill base again. Since that time I have not or will I ever paint any machine again.
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That's one reason I am just going with oil based paint. I have painted old cast iron before with my own home made black japan. It is made of Gilsonite which is almost powdered crud oil. You need no primer and it adheres to cast iron real well. I am thinking of painting it with that first but the oil based SW should be just fine on it's own. Here is one of the cast iron fans I painted with my home made paint (made from Gilsonite)
Attachments
You can buy it on ebay by the pound. I have a recipe from a 1912 paint book that I use. You can still find all the ingredients including the lead.
