Heavy 10 Paint

White Lead is still sold on ebay but it is not used in this paint. It was used by artists. Black Japan used yellow (Lead) litharge and red lead.

White Lead
 
Sweet (heh heh), thanks for those! I should have thought to check my old painters and gilders manual, there may have been a similar recipe in there. Similar vintage to your book, maybe a bit earlier but not much.

I tried making white lead once a few years ago. One of those mad scientist experiments that one thinks of late at night. I got a reasonable bit of what I expect was the lead acetate but didn’t take it any further.

Thanks again for the recipes :)

-frank
 
+1 on the Alkyd Enamel. Also, buy a gallon and have them split it and mix two different colors in the same “family”. I was not adamant about sticking to the boring SB grey. Mine was going to be a tool in my shop -might as well paint it the color I want. (Because you don’t get extra points for sticking to the traditional factory color)

Rick
 
+1 on the Alkyd Enamel. Also, buy a gallon and have them split it and mix two different colors in the same “family”. I was not adamant about sticking to the boring SB grey. Mine was going to be a tool in my shop -might as well paint it the color I want. (Because you don’t get extra points for sticking to the traditional factory color)

Rick
I thought about painting it with black japan. But black is a bit hot here in Florida and the sun will hit parts of the lathe at times.
 
Sweet (heh heh), thanks for those! I should have thought to check my old painters and gilders manual, there may have been a similar recipe in there. Similar vintage to your book, maybe a bit earlier but not much.

I tried making white lead once a few years ago. One of those mad scientist experiments that one thinks of late at night. I got a reasonable bit of what I expect was the lead acetate but didn’t take it any further.

Thanks again for the recipes :)

-frank
This guy sells most of the hard to get chemicals needed including the Gilsonite. The white Corpal (Gum Animi) and common Amber is easy to find.

 
Well I got some painting done. I think it looks pretty good. Here is a video of me removing the old paint with a small air die grinder I have. It actually worked better than the 8" sander I had and was much faster. Who would have thought that small grinder would work faster.

https://youtu.be/hx6DonBinnY
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1922.JPG
    IMG_1922.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 14
  • IMG_1924.JPG
    IMG_1924.JPG
    947.8 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1926.JPG
    IMG_1926.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 15
I painted a 1940 Bridgeport, one of the worse decisions of my life. I stripped it down, cleaned all the surfaces and applied the etching epoxy primer, got a beautiful finish, I waited a week, went to apply the paint, the primer fell off in sheets. Restripped the mill base, cleaned it completely again, reapplied the primer, waited a week, again the primer came off in sheets. I completely stripped and cleaned the mill base again, switch to a different brand of paint, it would not stick. Over the next 2-3 months, I washed it with white kerosene, acetone, muriatic acid, brake-Kleen, and other products, even carbon tetrachloride, nothing would stick.

One of my customers, made industrial coatings of all kinds, I mentioned to him the issue with the mill base, he asked a few questions and said he would need to think about it. About a week later, he came over to the shop, pulled out somekind of cleaning prep rags, wipe down 3 or 4 areas, put the rags back into their containers and left. About 3 or 4 days later he called and said he believed he had an answer. He gave me some prep wash, some primer and some blue-grey machine coating. I followed the hand written instructions to the letter, all application done out doors, wearing a respirator, keep everyone else clearly out of the area. after the prep wash had dried, the rags were extremely dirty, I applied the primer, waiting the required 3 days, I checked and the primer was solidly attached to the metal, I applied the paint, all went perfectly, the coverage and finish were great.

That was roughly 20 yrs ago, the coating engineer has passed on (cancer (?)), the coating company move to some place in Kentucky, and recently the paint is starting to peel off, in sheets, off the mill base again. Since that time I have not or will I ever paint any machine again.
I used to work for a machine shop/machine tool rebuilder, back when I was an apprentice. When the company expanded from machine shop to rebuilder, they had to learn a lot, including how to paint castings that had been soaked in cutting oil for decades, if not a century. After months of trail and error, mostly the latter, they finally resrted to baking the castings, sitting in trap pans, for three days under heat lamps. Bridgeport column castings would weep quarts of oil, which they in turn sold to recyclers. After the bake, the primer stuck without fail.
 
I used to work for a machine shop/machine tool rebuilder, back when I was an apprentice. When the company expanded from machine shop to rebuilder, they had to learn a lot, including how to paint castings that had been soaked in cutting oil for decades, if not a century. After months of trail and error, mostly the latter, they finally resrted to baking the castings, sitting in trap pans, for three days under heat lamps. Bridgeport column castings would weep quarts of oil, which they in turn sold to recyclers. After the bake, the primer stuck without fail.
That's why if this first paint job doesn't work I am going to paint it with Gilsonite black japan paint. It might look strange all black but I know it will not come off. Back in the late 1800's early 1900's they painted all types of cast iron with this stuff with no primer and sticks on the cast iron fine. You don't need to clean or bake the oil off, It is oil. Also it is one of the reasons I chose not to use a primer with the oil based SW paint. The oil based paint should fare better with the oil soaked cast iron. But we will see.
 
That's why if this first paint job doesn't work I am going to paint it with Gilsonite black japan paint. It might look strange all black but I know it will not come off. Back in the late 1800's early 1900's they painted all types of cast iron with this stuff with no primer and sticks on the cast iron fine. You don't need to clean or bake the oil off, It is oil. Also it is one of the reasons I chose not to use a primer with the oil based SW paint. The oil based paint should fare better with the oil soaked cast iron. But we will see.
All my old Stanley bench planes are painted the same way; most are nearly 100 years old and the paint is still on them.
 
Back
Top