Heat gun, hot plug

darkzero said:
I hate those push in connections which all the original outlets were.
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Yup. Those sort of connections were common in the automotive (DC) world a few years back. They are gone, and for good reason.
The bloody 'Scotch Locks" persist, until I become President. At that point, simple 'possession' will be a hanging offense....
 
That is indeed a 20A receptical. In the advertisments it is referred to as "hospital" grade. It is also "duplex", having two sockets on the strap. Look for the same socket configuration with a larger overall, single, round connector. There is one that is rated 30A. They will be identified on the box as such. Home Depot had some for sale some three or four months back so I know they're still aqvailable.
Leviton, a good brand. I needed one and it was right there, front and center. There is also one even larger but it's a 50A and the next size larger strap. They fit an older Lincoln buzzbox, the one with copper windings. A little smaller than a range plug. Don't confuse the two.

Just for general information, hospitals are often wired from a 120V, 3 phase, delta connected transformer. There is no neutral, either side of the plug is above ground, some 55 volts. If they vary, one up, the other down, there is a problem in the supply. Handy for troubleshooting but a pain in the wazoo for working with. But it helps with having the "line" so low to ground with all the instrumentation a hospital has connected. Getting "zapped" doesn't hurt as bad.

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I liked Eagle electrical products, good quality and value. Swept away by unrelenting economic forces
-Mark
 
A 20 amp outlet from Leviton or Eaton will do nicely.

Here is something to consider, since you plug (if it's not the receptacle) is overheating. Wagner is a German company, and those appliances were originally specified with 230v power. When they design for the North American market, they upgrade the wire and components, sort of. The wires are still pretty skinny. The crimping process may be the same for the 110v and 130v version of the appliance. Just saying. I have a lot of European appliances, this can be a problem. After replacing your outlet, if you still get heat, try replacing the appliance cord and plug with good 12 ga stuff.
 
Thank you I'll check on it
 
RJSakowski said:
I do not use push in connections for anything, period. A push in connection is just a point contact. Resistance is proportional to comnductor length and inversely proportional to conductor cross section. Although the effective length is small, so is the localized cross sectional area. Add oxidation over time and it's a recipe for disaster.

A 1200 watt heat gun is drawing 10 amps. While it isn't trivial, it shouldn't be enough to cause a hot connection. I would try another outlet. If the hot plug goes away, rewire the outlet. If the plug is still hot, cut it off and replace with a proper plug.
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In general, you are right - but when you need a compact, low insertion force, very high current plug/socket pin contact, there are technologies that ensure you end up with more than three small area high pressure points of contact. The patent expired long ago, but they look like THESE. Much loved by the military.

For in the shop, where possible, connect via hard-wired rated isolator box mounted on the wall, or wherever. I use "SY" flexible armored cable. It has a steel braid under a tough transparent jacket.

The use of 110V of course runs double the current, and 4 x the heating losses as compared to a power socket in the UK, but even so, it should not run uncomfortably hot. A UK system puts the fuse inside the plug, and runs a thermo-magnetic trip switched ring main. The current gets to the socket from both ways around the ring, of 2.5mm^2 , or 4mm^2 conductors, depending on route length. I don't know the norm for US wiring, but I would think that if there was no fuse in the plug, it would be "star" network distribution, with the cables protected at the distribution box source.

Warm is OK, but if you cant keep your hand on it, it's too much!
 
Do you have an electric hair dryer you can plug into the same outlet? I think ours is 1500 watts. That'd let you split the dictionary between the wall plug and the appliance. If both appliances get hot at the plug, try a different outlet. If cooler there, problem is the outlet. If one appliance gets hot and not the other, problem is in the plug of the hot appliance.

Bruce
 
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Thank you Mr Hanson, much more constructive than SOME people :rolleyes: :)
 
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