Heat gun, hot plug

Most commonly home replacement outlets are 15amps. Because they are cheap. If it's a primary outlet getting used with high amperage devices, you need to pay the extra buck twenty-five and put in a 30amp plug. Also check the gage going to the outlet. Aluminum is bad. Copper is good. With higher amp draw you'll want a thicker gauge wire. Besides the plug getting hot, your outlet is getting hot, which more than likely the wires feeding the outlet are getting dangerously hot as well. Go big or go.....get a fire extinguisher.

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You did good on the outlet, the screw terminals have less resistance than the push-ins. Now just put a better quality plug on the heat gun.
-Mark
 
I do not use push in connections for anything, period. A push in connection is just a point contact. Resistance is proportional to comnductor length and inversely proportional to conductor cross section. Although the effective length is small, so is the localized cross sectional area. Add oxidation over time and it's a recipe for disaster.

A 1200 watt heat gun is drawing 10 amps. While it isn't trivial, it shouldn't be enough to cause a hot connection. I would try another outlet. If the hot plug goes away, rewire the outlet. If the plug is still hot, cut it off and replace with a proper plug.
 
Right up front, it is normal for electrical appliances to run warm. Just how warm is "warm" is the issue to deal with. A plug and socket connection is a different matter. It should never be warmer than ambient temperature. A quick test would be to run the blower until the cord plug heats up, quickly unplug the cord and see if the socket is as hot to touch as the plug. If it's warm, the socket is worn. There is a possibility that the cord is too light. If the cord gets hot it's too light. But I would be most concerned about the socket, properly known as the receptical.

"Specification" grade sockets are the norm for residential construction. Then there are the cheap ones from the hardware store that often show up as replacements. They both will wear out as the stabs lose spring tension. Your best bet is to replace any one that is questionable. To me, "hospital" grade is the minimum for a shop. Better still, a "30 Amp" socket has even stiffer springs. You won't have any more capacity, that's controlled by the breaker and should not be increased. But check that the wiring is tight at the breaker, a good practice for any circuit. The limitation there is that the "30 Amp" plugs only have 1 outlet on a strap.

Then there's the wiring in the structure. . . The date of construction indicates a possible usage of aluminium wiring. Further, it indicates possible branch circuits of 15 Amp capacity. Use of aluminium wire was outlawed(but "grandfathered") because the difference of expansion rates of aluminium wire and copper wire. As they "work" they expand and contract. Over time this yields "loose" connections which gives even more heat which in turn causes still looser connections. Basically, a forward feedback situation, getting worse with time. A loose connection will get looser over time. Yes, I repeat myself, intentionally. Another thing is that if the wiring is aluminium, be sure to use the conductive grease when replacing the plug.

Now, to more personal insights. When I bought my house (1975) I rewired it throughout. With copper. . . Because I use electrical circuits heavily, I used 20 Amp branch circuits throughout. Such eventually became code, but later. The original wiring pre-dated "Romex" cable, hell it predated cables, period. I installed a number of 30 Amp plugs so I could use heavy appliances throughout the house. At the time, I worked for an electrical contractor and lost the job because I didn't like Al wire. . . And said so, many times. The only Al wiring I have is the service entrance and the range plug. And 20 years later, aeriel cables to the shop and barn. I have replaced a number of sockets for worn springs over the years, it happens. Nothing lasts "forever".

Bill Hudson​
 
I don't know of any 120V 30 amp receptacle that accepts a standard NEMA 5-15P style plug.
 
They do exist. . . I don't know the part designation but they are common in hardware stores. Just like a 240V 30A receptical, but the "T" is on the opposite side and the other slot is vertical.

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Virutally every portable appliance uses a molded plug. Molded plugs have crimped connections. A bad crimp can cause a high resistance connection which would cause localized overheating.
 
Great insight guys, when I pulled the wall fixture the first time, the plug was hot enough to not be able to hold it after pulling. When I changed the wire to the screw down type(same outlet) it is much, much better, but warm enough to make me ask about it. The wire is copper, and I want to change out the outlet, but my choice here is Home Depot. I would rather get a quality one online if I knew what to order, and probably retrofit the house one by one. I do have a multi meter, but my electrical abilities are limited, I do know what 110v feels like though, and I do drop it much faster if it's a spark plug wire :grin:
 
Home Depot has some good stuff, you just have to pay a little more. Sounds like the outlet was the biggest part of the problem
-Mark
 
They do exist. . . I don't know the part designation but they are common in hardware stores. Just like a 240V 30A receptical, but the "T" is on the opposite side and the other slot is vertical.

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If you mean like this, it is a 20 amp. NEMA 5-20

20amp.jpg
 
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