Grizzly G640x. Anti-hijack post.

I use the Teco 510 models on all my 3PH motors. I like their wide range of options quality, and price - and I've had a few shorts and mishaps, but the Tecos are still working.
 
I see a copper line, compressed air?
Yes sir! When cutting to a layout line it can really help keep the chips clear of the marking. I just use a small ball valve on the back side of the upper guide. It only takes a small amount of air.
 
I use the Teco 510 models on all my 3PH motors. I like their wide range of options quality, and price - and I've had a few shorts and mishaps, but the Tecos are still working.
Both my Mill and Lathe, 2hp and 5hp respectively have been running on Teco drives i installed. They have been reliable for years. The pictured Delta drive was installed by the manufacturer of the saw. I am happy to see that it is a quality brand and one which seems to be suppoted.
 
You can most likely buy the programmer for that.

What is the VFD model number?
We will find out! Thanks for the idea and questions. I did some more research based on what you posted and found a control panel online at Wolf automation for $40. It is on order and my fingers are crossed!
 
We will find out! Thanks for the idea and questions. I did some more research based on what you posted and found a control panel online at Wolf automation for $40. It is on order and my fingers are crossed!
You'll likely get an email from Rozita @ Wolf asking if it is OK to process your order given a substantial lead time on that part.
 
I use the Teco 510 models on all my 3PH motors. I like their wide range of options quality, and price - and I've had a few shorts and mishaps, but the Tecos are still working.
I have a Teco on my Monarch lathe and have been quite happy with it. I was actually a bit disappointed that my G0640X bandsaw is old enough to have the delta VFD and not the Teco.
 
Im interested to hear what speeds and saw blades folks are using as i use mine for general utility and normally don't like to change the saw bands more than i have too.
Rick,
Obviously I'm posting all sorts of comments, hope I'm not overwhelming your thread! That said, I'd be interested in band saw blade options too. I don't change blades if I can at all avoid it. The blade I currently have on mine is not a good blade in that the joint does not line up well and makes a significant jump whenever it passes. I just yesterday to make a 6" cut in 1" thick 1018, in the process of making more t-nuts for my K&T. My vague recollection is that Grizzly did not have very good selection of blades for this saw, and that I found the current blade on Amazon marketplace.

The saw seems to have plenty of power, and cuts true. But a better blade would be the biggest improvement for me. If you have any ideas in this area I'd like to hear them. Most of my cuts are straight lines so I lean toward fairly wide blades. McMaster has 131.5" blades, they generally are not the cheapest source but tend toward decent quality, I haven't tried them. I'd appreciate sharing ideas on this.
 
@rabler ,
I totally appreciate your comments! Vertical saws are not the most popular subject yet my 640x is one of the most used tools in my shop. There was close to nothing on the interwebs regarding this saw or any small metal working saws. I got the “convertible“ machine because of the price point and throat width. i have no regrets.

i have really only run 1/2” wide blades of the same thickness while having additional ones in stock. With the 1/2” blades, i am able to change the blade quickly without making any adjustments to the saw guide wise or tension wise.

the best experience i have had was ordering directly from Starrett who makes up anything you want and at the same or lower cost than McMaster Carr. I think i ordered all “Pro-Die”. The 8-10 tpi lives in the machine and is holding up great. I have a 6TPI in the 4x6. If i need to cut wud, i change blades or if i have a big chunk of material like you cut, i change out to a lower tpi. I ruin my blades cutting thin material with too course a blade whene it is “one quick part”. Invariably, that strips teeth…

i have some 1/4” blades for contours but the few i have cut, i haven’t bothered with the machine changes and just kept cutting out little wedges.
on mild steel, cutting dry, 150 to 175 seems like a good ft/min. Because i don't run a low enough tooth count even cutting aluminum i don’t run much over 300ft/min. A couple times i installed the wud cutting blade from Grizzly and changed the pulley. plywud cuts fantastically with so much less dust than a table saw, i never get mine out. Wud working for me is making a shelf for the shop or something similar :)
 
@rabler ,
I totally appreciate your comments! Vertical saws are not the most popular subject yet my 640x is one of the most used tools in my shop. There was close to nothing on the interwebs regarding this saw or any small metal working saws. I got the “convertible“ machine because of the price point and throat width. i have no regrets.

i have really only run 1/2” wide blades of the same thickness while having additional ones in stock. With the 1/2” blades, i am able to change the blade quickly without making any adjustments to the saw guide wise or tension wise.

the best experience i have had was ordering directly from Starrett who makes up anything you want and at the same or lower cost than McMaster Carr. I think i ordered all “Pro-Die”. The 8-10 tpi lives in the machine and is holding up great. I have a 6TPI in the 4x6. If i need to cut wud, i change blades or if i have a big chunk of material like you cut, i change out to a lower tpi. I ruin my blades cutting thin material with too course a blade whene it is “one quick part”. Invariably, that strips teeth…

i have some 1/4” blades for contours but the few i have cut, i haven’t bothered with the machine changes and just kept cutting out little wedges.
on mild steel, cutting dry, 150 to 175 seems like a good ft/min. Because i don't run a low enough tooth count even cutting aluminum i don’t run much over 300ft/min. A couple times i installed the wud cutting blade from Grizzly and changed the pulley. plywud cuts fantastically with so much less dust than a table saw, i never get mine out. Wud working for me is making a shelf for the shop or something similar :)
Same here, right price point. I had looked at metal-only saws and this was the best option I found at the time. I actually have another bandsaw set up for wood that is connected to a dust collector, although it hasn't seen much use recently.
 
Back
Top