Got My Qcgb

The link you posted notes you have to buy packages of 56 you cannot buy singles. I was going to order a rod a sae841 bronze and make them myself considering a reamer is something like $12 then someone mentioned to not use a reamer. As of right now I'm stuck because I have to cut my lead screw to see if the box works. If I cut my lead acre and it doesn't work them I'm in a bad spot and I also need two gears to run it. Rolling it by hand while mounted in my
Lathe it seems super noisy like the gears are binding which doesn't surprise me considering the wear. I'm just stuck and don't know what to do.


Regards-Carlo
 
Just so you guys can hear/ see it I'll try to load a video of the problem


Regards-Carlo
 
You should be able to buy the bushings at your local Ace Hardware, they normally stock quite a few sizes. I don't know why you couldn't use a reamer on the bushings.

I would rebuild the gearbox and get it working correctly first, then deal with the lead screw.
 
Again that was just an example they can be bought pretty cheap just about anywhere you dont have to buy 56 of them to get them cheap Ace hardware is a good starting point as Jim mentioned. Ray
 
Carlo,

The 40T (and one 48T) should have been with the basic change gear set. That's the way that Atlas would have originally figured it. But any mounting hardware and one 48T should have come with the 1500.
 
Jim,

A reamer used in a sintered bronze bushing has a tendency, unless it is super sharp, to smear and close the pores. That's why I mentioned using a very sharp single point boring bar earlier.
 
I have one 48 tooth gear and the pdf I downloaded shows 2 48t and one 40t to run the gearbox. Right now I have two 64 two 20 and a 56 from
My original change gears.


Regards-Carlo
 
And a shaft spinning around in there is not going to smear and close the pores????
 
iron man said:
And a shaft spinning around in there is not going to smear and close the pores????
Click to expand...
I would think so long as the shaft is good without burrs or damage it should have no reason to smear the bushing. In the case of a Reamer the design doesn't allow chips to clear as well as single point would. So instead of clearing a chip it pushes it into the pores. But I could be wrong.


Regards-Carlo
 
My point is it would have to be an awful dull reamer to smear a bronze bushing almost to the point of overheating and galling the surface.

Also a spinning shaft is no different than a dull reamer I have reamed hundreds of oilite bushings through the years and there still plenty of oil in them to work if not you can replenish the oil in them it is very easy.
 
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