G0768 Chuck modification

vincent52100

vincent52100

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Has anyone come up with a mod to make changing the chuck on the G0768 any easier. If you have one you know a chuck change can be a pain. I’m wanting to change between 3 jaw, 4 jaw and ER40 chucks. If your hands are not steady it can be frustrating. Thanks.
 
I don't have that kind of lathe, so I'm no expert. One thing I might suggest is to find or machine a shaft whose outside diameter is close to the spindle bore - tapered to match if necessary . Mount the shaft in the chuck jaws, so that it sticks out the back of the chuck a couple of inches. This should assist in getting the chuck centered, as well as helping support the weight, when you're aligning the studs on the back of the chuck with the backplate holes. Alternatively, you could put the shaft into the spindle bore and slide the chuck over it. Can't think of anything else useful. The chuck mounting method is not the simplest in the world, is it?
 
You should be able to find/make a board that fits over the ways (protecting them) and is just about the right size to hold the chuck high enough for the chuck to fit onto the spindle.
 
Look up search top right corner on making a chuck cradle including mine "make a chuck cradle"
 
Mitch Alsup said:
You should be able to find/make a board that fits over the ways (protecting them) and is just about the right size to hold the chuck high enough for the chuck to fit onto the spindle.
Click to expand...

The problem is reaching the nuts. It’s very tight for my finger. Also you need to cock the chuck to start the nuts.
 
OK, got it. Here's something that might help. You can probably retain a nut inside the box end with a piece of duct tape until the threads take hold. Or maybe use a putty knife to hold the nut against the end of the stud.

Either a shaft like I suggested, or a wooden support like @Mitch Alsup suggested, should allow you to move the chuck partway in, so that the studs are far enough clear of the headstock to allow nuts to be started, yet have a starting thread or two exposed.


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The distance between the plate and the headstock is 1/2”? The studs take up almost 5/16” of that.
I hold the nut sideways between the inside of two fingers and then push the stud into the nut to hold it to then catch a thread and only a few turns before its on to the next. Once they are all started I proceed to tighten. Maybe if you had a sticky box wrench or even cut a thin one from plastic or wood to hold the nut tight.
 

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If the chuck is like shown in the post above mine, then you could use a wood working clamp to hold the chuck with treads into the spindle while screwing on the nuts.
 
The trick is fitting fingers in between while trying to get the nuts started. You have to start them all before tightening because the nut is wider than the space between the stud and the headstock
 
How does the faceplate (PN 169 on pg 98) mount? An alternative trick might be to determine how the backplate (that the chuck mounts to) is attached to the spindle. Perhaps that attachment point could be made into a step in your swapout routine?!

Mine is a different model with a D4 camlock that makes changing between 3 & 4 jaw chucks much easier. It did not come with a 4 jaw though. After watching the Bar-Z 4 Jaw Competitions ( a setup speed race ) on YouTube I just left the 4 jaw in place & started developing that ability. Maybe some day I'll be quick about it LOL
 
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