Frejoth FI-900 wiring diagram

Here's a basic wiring diagram from a manual of one of many distributors of that machine. The Jet 1024 or 1032 manual might be better.
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Thanks, but that is for a simpler version of the machine without contactors
AFAIK there isn't any electrical diagram available for this particular model
I'm familiar enough I think we can get it going without one
 
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The machine was built by Tida mine is a 5aa model and I have the original manual.

@markba633csi is probably correct that finding an exact wiring diagram is unlikely as there wasn’t one with mine (branded Samson). However, if anyone can help you get it going Mark will.

On mine I removed the stock motor and control box and replaced it with a 3 phase motor powered with a VFD. These are very capable hobby sized machines and variable speed makes them more so.

Lucky it fell backwards as the motor mount is much easier to fix than controls, lead screw and QCGB.

John
 
my Shenwai SW900B was wired like this...
hopefully it helps you...
 

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markba633csi said:
So if I'm following you correctly, the machine is now working as it was when you purchased it, with the jumper installed.
The apron lever never has worked correctly.

What's the story with the forward/reverse microswitches? I see two in the tray and two on the machine
Is the cam mechanism adjusted correctly? (one switch actuated for forward, the other for reverse, neither one for neutral/stop)
On most apron lever machines lever down is normal/forward and lever up is reverse, but it could be configured either way

Is the motor original or a replacement?
What is that aqua-colored button on the gear cover? Jog button? Does that connect to 3 and 4 of the terminal strip?
Click to expand...
Mark- you are correct; the apron lever did not work when I got it (free, he was going to scrap it). The motor would come on with the on/off switch. I spoke with a fellow my wife works with and he suspected the microswitches on the carriage control. I tested them with an ohmmeter and they both functioned properly with the exception that one was oily and indicated 80 ohms of resistance. I replaced them with two of the same p/n (both normally closed) and that made no difference in the operation. The motor appears to be original with Chinses characters on the bottom of the data plate. The aqua button is a jog button and it does connect to 3&4 on the terminal strip.
I've had enough for today; cold and wet at work. Thanks again for lending your brain to this. Tim
 
OK Tim, thanks. Do the test I mentioned in post #10 and that should get us closer to the problem
 
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markba633csi said:
OK Tim, thanks. Do the test I mentioned in post #10 and that should get us closer to the problem
Click to expand...
Sorry I have been away so long. field work, work and life have kept me away from it. New development (and not a helpful one) in that the motor does not engage now with the on/off switch as it did before. Not sure what changed. Power is still getting to that upper left contact via the jumper wire but I do not know how to trace it from there. If you are still willing to help I would appreciate some guidance. Thanks. Tim
 
No problemo
Measure the transformer output X1 to X3 and check for 120 volts AC (be careful)
There is a fuse there that might have blown- shut off power before removing it
See if the jog button does anything
 
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