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Fincor 2301 dc power supply

Discussion in 'ELECTRICAL ISSUES - POWER YOUR MACHINES & SHOP' started by Lordbeezer, Jul 13, 2017.

  1. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    trying to wire up dc power supply..terminals numbered 1,2,3,4..wired two different ones terminal 1 black..2. White..115v ac..blew breaker in box both times..run switch and power switch were on when power was applied..can't find any info on this model.with 4 terminals would think 2 are for 115 v..other 2 to dc motor.how would I determine which ones get the 115 v..thanks
     

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  2. countryguy

    countryguy United States Active User Active Member

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    Can you take a picture of the bottom of the power supply? Need to see the copper traces to give you lugs, but the AC input should go into the primary side of the Xformer (transformer). See if you can trace back 2 of the lines from the Xformer to the lugs. That is your AC input as 110 will usually go into the Xformer primary, get bumped down (or up) thru the windings, (the other side of the Xformer) and off into the DC building circuitry. I see what looks like 2 or 4 larger diodes, but it's blurry. 2 diodes are needed for half-wave and 4 for full wave. That looks to me like it uses Diodes to rectify and develop the Direct Current. I have seen many of those with shorted diodes causing fuses to pop every time. Use a diode checker or Ohm meter across them, looking for a direct short and 0hms if bad.
     
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  3. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    Thanks very much for info.will trace .hope the pictures will help..Phil ..if closer or different pictures are needed let me know
     

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  4. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    Number 4 terminal under strip looks kinda rough..
     
  5. countryguy

    countryguy United States Active User Active Member

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    Hmmm I cannot tell... I need to ID the Xformer pins on the underside.. I cannot tell from the bottom which ping are for the Xformer on the primary side. If you took a black marker and eyeballed the pin going thru the top, and then out the bottom w/ solder and put a small circle around it, I could see a lot more than I am now. Just a thought. Do you have a volt/ohm meter and know how to use it? I see see some places on the net to send the 2301 to for service.
     
  6. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    Xformer has 2 wires coming out on terminal end..3 on back side.1 of 2 goes to terminal 1..center wire of 3 goes to terminal 3...marked path with sharpie..hope it shows up in picture. Thanks for your time..Phil ..picture is of different board but looks the same.
     

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  7. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    I put 115v on terminals 1 & 3..doesn't pop breaker.2& 4 put out appx.54 volts.knob doesn't change voltage..doesn't run either 2 dc motors I wired in..tried different power supply.same results.back to the drawing board..
     
  8. countryguy

    countryguy United States Active User Active Member

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    I Was able to find the attached manual, but its for a different 23 model. Maybe it can help? There are schematics in there. Sorry I could not be of more help
     

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  9. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    That manual is for the 2330..way different unfortunately.called company that fixes fincor controls.emailed them pictures.so far they have no idea how to wire the 4 terminals..makes me wonder how they could test it for function..have 5 115 v. 1 230 v controllers..countryguy please don't be sorry..you helped.got me on a path..thanks very much for your time and knowledge.Phil
     
  10. Ulma Doctor

    Ulma Doctor Infinitely Curious Active Member

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    is there any chance of getting a picture of the terminal strip, head on?
     
  11. markba633csi

    markba633csi United States Active Member Active Member

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    Phil you'll have to do some legwork to get those working. You'll have to unsolder and test all the semiconductors (I can give you instructions) and
    trace out the circuit back at least partway from the terminal block so you know for sure how to connect it.
    I looked online and couldn't find a schematic for it either, it's probably one of the first models they made.
    Mark S.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017 at 1:09 PM
  12. markba633csi

    markba633csi United States Active Member Active Member

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    For testing you'll need a 9 to 12 volt DC "wall-wart" power supply and a small 12 volt light bulb (like an automotive turn signal bulb),
    look around the house and see if you can scrounge those up, meanwhile I'll draw something up.
    Mark
     
  13. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    If these pictures don't show what you need let me know..the red wire to right of terminal 4 is hooked to same then goes through off-on circuit breaker then on to run stop toggle switch.wouldn't that be 1 of the 115 v lines?..thanks very much..Phil
     

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  14. markba633csi

    markba633csi United States Active Member Active Member

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    Phil: yes terminal 4 must be the 115 v hot line, I'm guessing 3 is the 115 v neutral. 1 and 2 might be motor. Try it like that and see if it works. Wear eye protection.
    Mark S.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017 at 8:13 PM
  15. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    Used a 2 prong extension cord put the big blade wire on terminal 4..smaller prong on 3.2.1 popped breaker each time..do I have hot and neutral backwards.using a power strip
     
  16. Keith Foor

    Keith Foor Active Member Active Member

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    OK hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you have applied 110 to the DC output of the unit which it sounds like you have, it's toast.
    Now for future reference on something like this. The AC side of most stuff is going to go through the power switch and the smaller of the two fuses if there are multiple fuses. If there is only one fuse it will be connected to the AC side. So with a voltmeter, connect one lead of the volt meter to either leg of the switch and the other to the terminals. Do this with the switch turned on. One terminal will be a short or 0 ohms. The other will be a very low resistance. The short is the HOT AC line in and the low ohm one will be the neutral AC line.

    IF it's immediately blowing a 15 amp breaker as soon as you put power to it, it's shorted.
    Now with the size of that transformer, even having the output of that transformer shorted it would not draw 15 amps from the line. For a 120 to 12 volt transformer to draw 15 amps, the output CURRENT would be 80 or 90 amps and that little transformer is no where near rated to handle that amount of power.

    The little pictures on here frankly suck. I can't make heads or tails of how things are laid out on the board at all. I need a good sized top and bottom shot of the board with it turned directly over so that the bottom is the bottom in both shots. Parts side and solder side.
    If I had that I would be able to direct you a bit better. But then again, this is what I do for a living.
     
  17. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    If these pictures are not what you need.let me know. Thanks Phil
     

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  18. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    The green looking stain on solder side is from a foam pad between board and circuit breaker
     
  19. markba633csi

    markba633csi United States Active Member Active Member

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    Phil can you read the numbers on this device and can you give us a real close up shot of it?
    It looks like there is no insulating washer there-might be an iso-tab
    Mark
    ps the wide blade is the neutral, the narrow one is the hot on a 115 v plug
    finc1aa.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017 at 11:12 AM
  20. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    image.jpeg image.jpeg Eagle eye mark..how right you are.2 of the 3 I have in the house are missing insulating tabs..on those 2 the pot housing is grounded to the cover but not the terminals. Numbers are D62402-G1..
     
  21. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    On the "Good" one terminals 1 & 3 have continuity. Not on other 2.thanks for your time
     
  22. markba633csi

    markba633csi United States Active Member Active Member

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    The SCR component that my blue arrow is pointing to- what numbers are on it? Is it D62402-G1?
    Mark S.
     
  23. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    No, the number is is68 then ho879..number sent earlier is off the board Assy. Thanks Phil
     
  24. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    image.jpeg Hope you can see numbers in picture.
     
  25. chips&more

    chips&more United States Active User Active Member

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    If someone has already noted, I apologize. It looks like this supply has two outputs? One is 50VDC for the field and the other is 0-90VDC for the armature. So where are all of the terminals??? What am I missing? Is the input hard wired and the output with terminals or something like that?
     
  26. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    image.jpeg The run stop toggle switch on all have 2 unused terminals. Would that be input?
     
  27. chips&more

    chips&more United States Active User Active Member

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    OK then, yes your AC input could be going to that switch. BUT,something does not look correct about how it is currently wired? Please do some checking on toggle switch configurations. And then on how your circuit is wired to that switch.
     
  28. Lordbeezer

    Lordbeezer United States Active Member Active Member

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    Terminal 4 has red wire going to built in circuit breaker.comes out of breaker to toggle switch.in run position one wire has continuity.it goes by red wire to back of circuit board.it hooks to circuit board and goes to number 2 terminal..terminals 1 and 3 goes through transformer. Wouldn't 2 and 4 be power in..1 and 3 power out??thanks Phil..
     
  29. markba633csi

    markba633csi United States Active Member Active Member

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    Chips: we don't have a schematic or manual for this thing so it's kind of shooting in the dark. I think Phil will have to trace deeper into the circuit to determine for certain how it should be connected. The only thing I am fairly certain of is that terminal 4 must be the 115v hot wire. Everything else is guesswork at this point.
    Phil: the numbers on the SCR devices looks like a "house" number so it doesn't tell us much yet. You need to start drawing the circuit with pencil and paper from the terminal strip inward until it becomes clear how the front end of the circuit is configured. You should not need to trace the entire circuit only the first few connections from the terminal block. Just connecting things willy-nilly will not get you there, and will damage the units.
    Mark S.
     
  30. Keith Foor

    Keith Foor Active Member Active Member

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    Whoa wait... What? You mentioned a "good one" A good one that's like this and fully working, or just one that hasn't been fooled with yet but missing the power cord?
     

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