Er 40 Collets

Nope, its the nut that gives you the accuracy. All things being equal - taper and threads made to industry standards, etc - the nut determines how accurately the collet is seated in the taper. Again, for work holding it might not make a difference but for tool holding, it makes a big difference.
 
mikey said:
Well, at least it helped you to make up your mind, right? All the guy did is mount a Chinese ER chuck onto a backing plate and you can do it yourself for a lot less than he is charging instead of making one from scratch.

I didn't realize Beall made a 1.5 X 8 ER chuck. You might consider them, Mark. They are well made and fairly accurate; mine has less than 0.001 run out. If you factor in the time and material costs to make one his price is pretty good.

If you do make one, consider spending a bit more on the nut. In my tests, I found the cheap Chinese collet nut that came with my chuck to have more run out (0.0007" for the Chinese nut and 0.0002" for an ETM nut). With the Chinese nut the more I torqued the nut the worse the run out got, while the ETM nut got better. This probably doesn't matter much if you only plan to use collets for work holding but it can make a huge difference for tool holding.
Click to expand...

I have been looking at these collet nuts on line and I can't find any that specify any kind of tolerance. I checked several of the more expensive ones and found they also originated in China.
 
To make the ER chuck for the 9" is not hard at all. The inside 1 1/2 8 the taper for the collet and the thread for the nut.
 
The only difficulty folks in the USA may have is that the thread for the collet nut is metric, so it may be Change-wheel Time...
Do the spindle thread and register first, of course, then everything else with the chuck mounted to ensure everything's nice and concentric - John (Doubleboost) has a youtube video -
- ER32 for a threaded spindle, I advise turning the subtitles (cc button at the bottom of the screen) on...

Dave H. (the other one)
 
Hi Mark,

Years ago I bought the Beall ER-32 collet chuck for my Southbend 9" lathe and I would call it a great investment; a little expensive up front, but great quality and at the time I would never have considered making one.

I use the collets way more often than either chuck. If I was doing it again now (with many more hours of using the lathe) I would consider making my own. However, I would NEVER give-up the 3/4" thru hole ability in the headstock. It is much too useful.

One suggestion is to make the body out of either square or hex stock, then you can use it off the lathe as a collet block in the mill vise. @mattthemuppet made one here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/er25-collet-chuck-for-atlas-618.41636/

Please share your build! I always get useful info from your shared projects.

Thanks,
-brino
 
British Steel said:
I advise turning the subtitles (cc button at the bottom of the screen) on...
Click to expand...

You didn't really try that, did you? Google hasn't the slightest idea what John is saying, at least over here. :)

"Allotment Europe, when they call it short, stinging off the usual college football target." lol

After watching a few seasons of this, John's accent isn't difficult at all to follow.

 
brino said:
Hi Mark,

Years ago I bought the Beall ER-32 collet chuck for my Southbend 9" lathe and I would call it a great investment; a little expensive up front, but great quality and at the time I would never have considered making one.

I use the collets way more often than either chuck. If I was doing it again now (with many more hours of using the lathe) I would consider making my own. However, I would NEVER give-up the 3/4" thru hole ability in the headstock. It is much too useful.

One suggestion is to make the body out of either square or hex stock, then you can use it off the lathe as a collet block in the mill vise. @mattthemuppet made one here:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/er25-collet-chuck-for-atlas-618.41636/

Please share your build! I always get useful info from your shared projects.

Thanks,
-brino
Click to expand...
Oh....I'll post the build, but I have to finish the two big projects I'm doing first. Sometimes I end up with a half dozen project in various stages of completion. That is where I seem to be now. :grin: I have to get the fingers on the bending brake and the tool grinder is about 2/3 done, I have the power feed to finish on my mill, repairs to the lathe , and new lead screws for the mill, paint the new belt sander I built, it just doesn't seem to end,:faint: but I wouldn't have it any other way :grin:
 
You are building a power feed for your mill? What mill do you have? I'm thinking of getting the small mill from Charter Oak . The power feed you built would it fit on that size mill?
 
David VanNorman said:
You are building a power feed for your mill? What mill do you have? I'm thinking of getting the small mill from Charter Oak . The power feed you built would it fit on that size mill?
Click to expand...

I have a Burke #4 mill. It has a mechanical power feed that ran off the rear of the spindle. I am putting a DC motor on it to run the power feed which required me to make brackets for the motor, pulleys, and rig a belt drive off the motor.
 
I had a hardinge that had that system and I sold it. now I'm looking at the Charter Table top. It should take up less room and be newer.
 
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