Epoxy floor for a new shop, good idea or bad?

[Shotgun]

There are pros and cons. the stuff I have used is very durable It would not put up with a acetylene torch directly applied, but pretty tough easy to clean up spills [oil and such] the big minus is it can be very slippery. Some add "flakes" to add traction . if it were me I would ask about that. So in a weld/burn shop ,, not so good. In a general work area,, not a bad idea. Just my two cents. Good luck on your new home

Add grit to it. Your life depends on it.

I thought I would get away with not using the grit in my shop. Then I got rain through the garage door. I felt like I was returning to the 70's as I went down to a split.

I added a second coat with some grit I got off the end of the driveway. Does not take much at all.

 

[Shotgun]

I should have mentioned, new shop is in Prescott AZ. We're escaping California.

I'd love to hear more about things like grinding chips pitting the epoxy. Folks have experience with that happening? Seems sorta surprising but maybe it can.

Also should clarify this is more of a gunsmithing/hobby shop than a welding/fab shop. Mostly mill and lathe work. Though I do want to have the capacity to MIG/braze/cut once and a while. Pretty light welding when I do. I could keep one area in the shop concrete and only epoxy the area where the machining goes on.

Get you a welding blanket from Harbor Freight. Also good for just keeping the shop generally clean.

 

[boneyard51]

I tried to get my neighbor to spread a little sand in the top coat. But he’s kinda go by the rules guy and it didn’t say you could put sand in the top coat.....so no sand! I use to put sand blasting sand in paint all the time to add grip!





Bones

 

[Tozguy]

My current shop floor is unfinished concrete and I have lots of stains from my Bridgeport, various cutting fluids etc. My hope is to have something much easier to keep clean and be durable.

Cutting fluid, solvents, paint remover, fuel drips, tire marks, you never know what will happen and how the floor covering will take it. It has been close to 45 years since my new shop floor was treated with a clear sealer that soaked into the cement. It was applied shortly after the floor was cured and before anything was moved in. It smelled like h... and was probably very toxic until dry. But it did not chip, peel, discolour, or degrade from uv. It is easy to sweep and scrape dried paint off it.

Although modern epoxy floor coverings have amazing qualities I wonder if epoxy would have stood up as well as that sealer has.

 

[Papa Charlie]

I like the appearance of the Epoxy Painted floors, but I don't like the grip or flakes as it is hard to clean up, find parts, etc. My concern with a painted floor is it could become a sheet of ice and my knees would not do well if I were to slip on some water.

At least for now, my plan, when I get my shop, will be to put a sealer on the floor that soaks in. I will use a type that is not glossy to prevent it becoming a slip hazard.

For me, it comes down to not what I want, but what I need.

 

[Illinoyance]

I had bad luck with epoxy floors. These were thicker than a coat of paint. I always had problems with the epoxy lifting off the concrete. There was concrete adhering to the bottom of the epoxy. I blamed it on moisture migration through the concrete. Maybe those applications that are 1 or 2 coats of epoxy paint have enough porosity to pass the moisture.

 

[matthewsx]

I did epoxy when we moved to Mesa, AZ in July 2001. I did everything right, scrubbed with TSP, clean & dry, good quality 2 part epoxy. Looked great right up until it didn't and then what....

Yes, hot tires are a thing, also grinding and cutting marks.

IMHO it's a waste of money for a shop floor unless you're trying to impress clients (or friends). I've had very good luck since just coating with Thompsons Water Sealer or a similar product. It will keep oil from soaking into the cement and is easy to re-apply every few years.

But, I'm cheap and have had quite a few shops both professional and personal.

It's kinda like having a really nice paint job on a pickup truck IMHO.....


John

 

[Shotgun]

I did epoxy when we moved to Mesa, AZ in July 2001. I did everything right, scrubbed with TSP, clean & dry, good quality 2 part epoxy. Looked great right up until it didn't and then what....

Yes, hot tires are a thing, also grinding and cutting marks.

IMHO it's a waste of money for a shop floor unless you're trying to impress clients (or friends). I've had very good luck since just coating with Thompsons Water Sealer or a similar product. It will keep oil from soaking into the cement and is easy to re-apply every few years.

But, I'm cheap and have had quite a few shops both professional and personal.

It's kinda like having a really nice paint job on a pickup truck IMHO.....


John

For me, it was more about oil clean-up that just looking good. It fights dirt and moisture better, so that sweeping pretty much get things clean.

 

[Larry$]

I always had problems with the epoxy lifting off the concrete. There was concrete adhering to the bottom of the epoxy. I blamed it on moisture migration through the concrete.

I'd bet $ the problem was with the concrete, not the epoxy. Way too often concrete is poured too wet. Then the surface is worked too soon and you end up with a lot of water and fines on the top, very weak. Or someone uses "drier" also a very bad idea that makes a neat looking but very weak surface. If the concrete was not properly cured (kept wet & not allowed to dry out and kept above 40F as long as possible, 2 weeks?) the surface will be weaker. If curing compound is used be sure it can be fully stripped and is compatible with epoxy. Putting a sealer under epoxy will likely reduce adhesion.
35 years ago I did two coats of epoxy on my new shop floor. It may have been a bit slick when new but traffic took the shine down some and then it was fine. I suspect you could do the same by just doing a very light/fast once over with a fine abrasive impregnated power brush.
In addition to the oil resistance & easy clean up, using a light color improves the lighting. Prep is extremely important, clean, scrub with trisodium phosphate, rinse, vacuum. Acid etch to remove any laitance (cement powder) and actually expose the top of the aggregate. Rinse twice and wet vacuum. Use a big wide roller and a mesh screen to even out the paint on the roller. The stuff gives off fumes that are probably bad for you, use a solvent mask. Do it in warm weather when you can have the place open. Move the air out with fans if possible. Do the second coat while the first is still within the recoat time.

A lot of work but it is very durable, Worth it.

 

[7milesup]

It's kinda like having a really nice paint job on a pickup truck IMHO.....


John

Oh no. You really didn't say that did you John? Oh the humanity. LOL

As a side note, I have a very nice truck that I do haul stuff in.

Edit: The function of the shop has a huge impact on what should/could be done with the floor. My brothers shop (which is huge) is utilized for working on his large farm equipment. Does it make sense to do an epoxy floor in that? Probably not. A sealed floor would be sufficient. That being said, I spent my career in aviation and I have never walked into a maintenance hangar where you couldn't practically eat off of the floor. Something about walking into a hangar with a bunch of shiny jets sitting on on equally shiny hangar floor that just made me smile...