Engraving Lines Into A Degree Dial?

[old toolmaker]

I used a sharp pointed HSS tool bit, old threading tool, to put the 360 some odd marks on my new compound base. Had no problem doing this. The material was 80-55-06 ductile iron. I can see 300 series SS being a problem putting marks on it as tough as that stuff is. A 400 series stainless steel would have worked a little better. A piece of Stressproof would have worked best, too. Ken

Here is some info I pulled off the internet regarding 303 stainless steel.

"303 is an "18-8" chromium-nickel stainless steel modified by the addition of selenium or sulphur, as well as phosphorus, to improve machinability and non-seizing properties. It is the most readily machinable of all the chromium-nickel stainless grades and has good corrosion resistance, although less than other chromium-nickel grades, such as 304 or 316. It is non-magnetic in the annealed condition and not hardenable by heat treatment. Tensile strength and hardness can be increased by cold working. Slight magnetism can be detected by cold working. 303 has excellent scale resistance at temperatures up to 1600° F in continuous service".

In the same article I learned that 303 also has decent form ability characteristics which should help me when stamping numbers on this dial. I chose 303 because it was non magnetic ( a good quality for grinder components), non corrosive and easy to machine.

Dick

 

[clockworkcheval]

I used several times a circular saw with a width of 0,15 mm in the horizontal arbor of my milling machine to a depth of 0.1 mm. It produces real fine well-defined lines.

Clockworkcheval