Electrical "Flyback"

Believe me I'm big on having everything well grounded. I learned that on the nova with the ls3. I'm running the fuel pump and fuel gauge ground wires to a ground block inside the battery box. I'm also going to put some of the wires in RFI shielding metal wire loom. The instructions talk about the system being sensitive to high energy interference, and I have HEI ignition. I've already had to sheild some wires to the digital dash and replace the plug wires.

I'm soldering the wire connections I'm having to extend and putting them in braided loom to protect them. I'm doing everything I can think of to avoid any potential problems.

The idea in creating this thread was to get as much input as I could from others more knowledgeable than I am with this subject. It's a very informative and eye opening conversation. I have learned a lot to help me make the right decisions on how to do this.

I'm deeply grateful to everyone that has participated.
 
Ohhh, I missed that you were still running a distributor. HEI is still one of the hottest, but it's not that, it's the air gap between the rotor and terminal in the cap. Air gap sparks are how the first radio signals were generated, because they make a lot of EMI. Have you considered installing a crank trigger and plugging the distributor hole with JB weld?

I forgot a whole world exists between crude fuel injection and modern engine management. Spark and fuel go together like peas and carrots, let the computer handle both.
 
I eventually plan on going with the holley stand alone distributor for the sniper. Doesn't require the CD box, just a coil.

Holley Sniper EFI 565-340 HYPERSPARK SMALL CAP CHEVY V8 SB,BB

HyperSpark Ready to Run adds plug and play ignition timing control to any Holley EFI system. This line of distributors comes with a built-in ignition coil driver, removing the need of mounting an ignition box or external coil driver. The design includes a single Hall Effect sensor providing...
www.holley.com www.holley.com

The instructions for the sniper says get the engine running without the holley distributor. I guess they figure one less thing to troubleshoot if there are problems initially. Makes sense. Engine runs very well as is, it's just very cold blooded with the carb.

I'm not sure if the sniper works with a crank trigger setup. Nothing in the instructions about that, just about a CD box.
 
Not only is the starter terminal an electrically noisy place to take power from, there's also a sizable voltage drop due to the high starting
current running thru the starter cables. That's why running a separate wire is best. "Star"or "wagon wheel" distribution is usually better than "daisy chaining" when it comes to power systems
 
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I'm in the process of running a separate 10awg wire directly to the battery as we speak along with the fuel pump wire. both in braided wire loom. I get this loom from amazon and I love it. It's not split and there is a trick to getting it over the wire, bu it looks so nice when its on. https://www.amazon.com/Keco-100ft-E...=wire+loom+braided&qid=1690904659&sr=8-4&th=1

I had to go to my local napa store to get the wire. I have some CCA wire but it's terrible. Flimsy aluminum copper coated crap. I ordered it before I knew what CCA was. I tried to find some pure copper wire on amazon and gave up trying to find any and paid a premium price at napa. I hate napa, 99% of the time they never have what I need, and if I order it to come to my local store they send it to longview 30 plus miles away and then tell me sorry about that. Has happened multiple times to me.
 
Amazon probably still sells Anchor marine wire. It's USA made fine strand pure copper and full-length pre tinned with a 600F silicone jacket. It's some of the best wire anywhere.
 
markba633csi said:
Copper wire is getting way expensive- stock up now folks!
Click to expand...
Yes, you need a 500 ft roll, minimum, of every gauge. And all possible solid colors. But to be safe be sure to get European style yellow/green earth conductor color too. The other striped wires are only for advanced users. Don't forget stranded and solid. And make sure you get the appropriate insulation varieties too. Once you get that stocked, you can start worrying about multi-conductor cables.
(Says someone who has quite a bit of wire)
 
I finally did finally find some pure copper wire on amazon, but it's 7-10 days away and I could have bought 100ft for exactly twice what I paid for 15ft at napa. They do have anchor brand wire and it's more expensive and 2 days away, but I already bought some for this part of the project. And I'm getting tired of waiting for parts. My goal of driving the car this summer is slowly fading away.

If I bought all the wire I may need in the future, I wouldn't need it as I wouldn't be able to afford a car to work on :p


I've been thinking (I know that's something a man should not do- A line from the movie 12 o'clock high) but the sniper needs a 12v ignition on source. With the AAW harness all the power to the car comes off the starter terminal.

So with that being said, will the ignition on 12v source to the sniper affect it with the dirty power and cause problems? Or does the ignition wire just turn a relay on and the power is isolated? I'm trying to figure out a way to check to see if the two circuits are connected when the system in on. I kinow how a relay works and the turn on signal wire is seperate from the high currect source for the relay to switch, but is this the same here? I may be over thinking all this, but better to think about it now than later.

The way the instructions say to wire the sniper the system has full time power directly from the battery, so there has to be some kind of switch to tun the system on.
 
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