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Split points are wonderful, but I suspect hard for the amateur to sharpen.
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Drill sets
- Thread starter Karl_T
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- Mar 7, 2018
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- 105
I've had good luck and good service from drillsandcutters.com. I really like the stubby set.
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- Oct 4, 2020
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My first real set of bits was a 115pc from Drill Hog. They're sharp. They're good. The ones you linked to have pretty bad reviews. The bits I know I'm going to use a lot, I order 2-3 good USA made cobalt bits from MSC
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
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- 4,814
I have a Triumph Twist Drill set in a mechanics/Screw machine drill set (shorter than standard jobber length, I also have a Hertel set in cobalt HSS in short length, I have a full 115 set and a metric jobber length in viking/Norseman drills. Also spares in Cleveland and Triumph, all cut very well, have stayed sharp and seem durable. I keep the Triumph set dedicated to the mill, they walk less and the shanks do not get torn up when I use them in my powered hand drills. I prefer drills with no flats on the shank, but in cheaper chucks they may be preferable so you do not twist in the chuck. These are all 135 degree point drills, I have the full 115 piece set as I often need wire size drills and also use them for drilling tap holes. Common sizes that I use often, I buy packages of multiple drills in that size, rather than regrind the tip. I thorough the worn out ones in a box and one of these days I will get out my Drill Doctor and regrind them. Buy a quality set and it should last, my cobalt Hertel I have had for years, they are now relegated to my power hand drill which beats up the shanks.
Triumph Twist Drill 1/16 in.-1/2 in. Black/Bronze Oxide High Speed Steel Mechanics Length Twist Drill Bit Set with Metal Index (29-Piece) 090552 - The Home Depot
Drills finished with black and bronze oxide can be used in cast iron, steel (low/medium carbon, high alloy, stainless) and tough/medium/high-tensile strength alloys. Split points extend the drills life
www.homedepot.com
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- Feb 13, 2017
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- 2,138
In answer to your original question, there are several more sets than what you are asking about. What you are calling two sets are actually three. There is the fractional 1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths. There is a number set from around 0.040(~1mm) to about 0.200. Then there is the letter set than goes from just above Nr 1 to a little over 0.400.(~7/16). Thats what you are asking after.
I spent 50 odd years building my sets. Anything that needs a good drill was bought individually. Some time back, when times were good, I purchased the full sets of questionable quality. If I use it once for steel and it dulls, it's thrown out and replaced with a known good drill. Full sets of good drills are horrendously expensive. In essence, you get what you pay for and you pay for what you get. There are many good name brands like Chicago Latrobe and Precision Twist Drill. (my personal preference) And there are many not so good and junkie sets. And many good drills of names of recent origon that I'm not familiar with. Here is as good a recommendation as any. Cheap sets still work for wood and plastic, and the boxes make good starter boxes. Huot is top line there.
Now, on to other sets, many of which are specific to what you work on. An extension to the numbered set runs fron Nr 61 to Nr 80. But in reality, how many(few) need to drill 0.013.(Nr 80) I build models in small scale, I do use them. As would someone doing carburator jets or gas furnace jets. Not the sort of thing found in the average tool box.
And to top off everything else, there are detailed metric sets up to 13mm. If you do a lot of metric work, get metric drills. If only occasionally, most metric drills have comparable imperial sizing. If you need closer than 0.001 for a hole, you'll be using a reamer anyway. I have some fairly complex metric sets because I had some spare cash at one time and needed somewhere to spend it. The US will go metric eventually, like it or not, but will be a slow conversion. I got a moderately good set so I'll have then when. . .
Then there are the job specific drills. Technically, a 1/4 capscrew rates a Nr F drill, a couple thou larger than 1/4. But, like most people, if i'm drilling for a 1/4 bolt, I use a 1/4 drill. I buy them in packs of 10. They are good for, though not properly sized for, Nr 14 machine screws and 6mm cap screws. And stuffing small wires through wood and the like. Or 1/8 rivets, where the proper drill is a Nr 30(0.128), not 1/8. And for 3/16 rivets, where a 3/16 drill is a fuzz too small and there's not another drill that is 0.003 oversized. But there is, I found some at an aircraft salvage house.
There are more drills than any normal person would ever need. My advice, such as it is, is buy a good set of 1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths. That will do 90% or more of your work. Then add here and there as you need something not in that case. I buy 1/16 drills in 10 packs at Harbor Freight for working with wood, ZAMAK, and plastic. A suitable size as a tap drill for 2-56 and 2mm. Not exact for either but usable for both.
I could lecture for hours when I get wound up. A copy of Machinery's Handbook, a Drill Doctor and a set of fractionals will get you by for a long time. Years. . . The rest you can get as you need.
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I spent 50 odd years building my sets. Anything that needs a good drill was bought individually. Some time back, when times were good, I purchased the full sets of questionable quality. If I use it once for steel and it dulls, it's thrown out and replaced with a known good drill. Full sets of good drills are horrendously expensive. In essence, you get what you pay for and you pay for what you get. There are many good name brands like Chicago Latrobe and Precision Twist Drill. (my personal preference) And there are many not so good and junkie sets. And many good drills of names of recent origon that I'm not familiar with. Here is as good a recommendation as any. Cheap sets still work for wood and plastic, and the boxes make good starter boxes. Huot is top line there.
Now, on to other sets, many of which are specific to what you work on. An extension to the numbered set runs fron Nr 61 to Nr 80. But in reality, how many(few) need to drill 0.013.(Nr 80) I build models in small scale, I do use them. As would someone doing carburator jets or gas furnace jets. Not the sort of thing found in the average tool box.
And to top off everything else, there are detailed metric sets up to 13mm. If you do a lot of metric work, get metric drills. If only occasionally, most metric drills have comparable imperial sizing. If you need closer than 0.001 for a hole, you'll be using a reamer anyway. I have some fairly complex metric sets because I had some spare cash at one time and needed somewhere to spend it. The US will go metric eventually, like it or not, but will be a slow conversion. I got a moderately good set so I'll have then when. . .
Then there are the job specific drills. Technically, a 1/4 capscrew rates a Nr F drill, a couple thou larger than 1/4. But, like most people, if i'm drilling for a 1/4 bolt, I use a 1/4 drill. I buy them in packs of 10. They are good for, though not properly sized for, Nr 14 machine screws and 6mm cap screws. And stuffing small wires through wood and the like. Or 1/8 rivets, where the proper drill is a Nr 30(0.128), not 1/8. And for 3/16 rivets, where a 3/16 drill is a fuzz too small and there's not another drill that is 0.003 oversized. But there is, I found some at an aircraft salvage house.
There are more drills than any normal person would ever need. My advice, such as it is, is buy a good set of 1/16 to 1/2 by 64ths. That will do 90% or more of your work. Then add here and there as you need something not in that case. I buy 1/16 drills in 10 packs at Harbor Freight for working with wood, ZAMAK, and plastic. A suitable size as a tap drill for 2-56 and 2mm. Not exact for either but usable for both.
I could lecture for hours when I get wound up. A copy of Machinery's Handbook, a Drill Doctor and a set of fractionals will get you by for a long time. Years. . . The rest you can get as you need.
.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2014
- Messages
- 1,971
Follow up. i decided to go with redline tools as the vendor https://www.redlinetools.com/catsearch/187/drill-set
Got a fractional and a complete set in HSS 118 point. Popped for cobalt 135 split point on the second fractional set.
Got a fractional and a complete set in HSS 118 point. Popped for cobalt 135 split point on the second fractional set.
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- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 3,887
This reminded me that I still need to order a set of short drill bits... I was looking at a Chicago Latrobe set... but so many different brands mentioned here. And the one I was going to get is a 118 Degree Conventional Point set... let me look at 135 degree options...
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- Aug 6, 2015
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Heads up - The RD44159 is 118 degrees... The RD44163 is 135 degrees and a whooping US$515.32 ... to much for me at this time...
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Interesting... thank you for sharing.
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- Oct 14, 2014
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Yep, i asked the vendor to give me the 44159 in 135 split point.
The 44163 also has number and letters for 115 drills. $500 was past my pinch point so i went HSS on the complete set.
<EDIT> the description for RD44159 is wrong on the web site. Its actually 135 split point cobalt. Kyle at Redline ran it down for me - GREAT customer service there. That's why i buy from them even if it is sometimes a bit cheaper elsewhere. I also got another $40 off as a regular customer.
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