Craftsman cross and compound slide play....

Craftsman lathes are basicly Atlas machines with a few modifications for sale by Sears. Getting gibs set properly is a long, frustrating, process. One issue that hasn't been brought up is dovetail wear. The dovetails will wear from excessive use, lack of lubrication, or a number of other problems. My C'man 101.27440 came from a cotton mill and wasn't used widely, only for maintenance. I was fortunate there, I have seen dovetails that were so badly worn that they had a visible curve. Dovetails tend to wear where the cross slide (or compound) is regularly used at one setting. In production use, this could be a serious problem.

A tell-tale sign would be to find some point, usually near the middle, where things are loosest and snug the gibs. When you leave that point, in either direction, things get very tight very fast. That is a sign of worn dovetails. . . Dovetails can be recut on a mill, or ground true. Either one is a tedious process, but not that difficult. The only after-effect is that gibs must be a little thicker to allow for removed material.

A C'man machine would not likely have shown up in production work, so that point is usually overlooked. But a casual user that had poor maintenance practices and worked in a small area could have caused such damage. It's worth following up on. One "git by" solution would be to set the gibs loose and a setscrew with a knob to tighten things before making a cut. I have used that as a "git by", it adds some complexity but does eliminate the need to regrind anything. My current C'man machine doesn't have that problem, my experience goes waayyy back to a ship with an Atlas.

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I appreciate the reply and will check on Saturday. I am hoping it can be fixed this weekend.....chores are piling up!
 
I consider gib screws to require frequent attention - not something that you can set once and forget. I lock down the gibs on the compound when I don't need to move the compound for a cut. For critical cuts I lock down the gibs on each axis except the one I am moving for that cut. Also, I will ajust the gibs on the carriage for the area of the bed that I am using - my bed has uneven wear. For me, adjusting the gibs is part of operating the lathe.
 
Sorta related to this, and a possible sometimes fix is that the 10" and 12" milling attachment (and maybe the 6") use the same vertical slide part as the 10" and 3/8" bed 12" cross slides. Except that the milling attachments come with three gib screws and a Tee-handle lock screw. On my 3996 I replaced the 3rd gib screw from the front with a lock screw.
 
I cleaned and carefully re-assembled everything last weekend. Both the cross and compound slide worked well, but only for a few minutes. They are back to binding up and not moving on the return from being moved out/away from the operator. I am close to giving up. I suspect it has something to do with the gears for the power feed on the cross slide. I can’t see anything else that could cause the binding up.
 
The carriage will encounter varying bed thickness due to wear. The majority of the wear will be in the first 10” or so inches closest to the head stock. When adjusting the gibs for the carriage this has to be taken into consideration. Setting the gibs when at the headstock or the far end by the tailstock can leave the carriage too tight or too loose. Same applies to the cross slide and compound. Careful measurements of the dovetails will likely show wear due to the usage of time.
When I had mine, I had the same issues as well. I had to polished and filed and massaged where I could to minimized the problem.
Pierre
 
I cleaned a carefully re-assembled everything last weekend. Both the cross and compound slide worked well, but only for a few minutes. They are back to binding up and not moving on the return from being moved out/away from the operator. I am close to giving up. I suspect it has somethng to do with the gears for the power feed on the cross slide. I can’t see anything else that could cause the binding up.
is there a notch in the gib to keep it from jockeying back and forth? Usually locates off the adjustment screw head, (like a fillister head but flat on top).
 
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