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Cleaning oil lines

Discussion in 'MACHINE RESTORATION & WAY SCRAPING' started by Ropata, Jul 9, 2017.

  1. Ropata

    Ropata New Zealand Active Member Active Member

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    Can anyone tell me the best way to clean out oil lines on my mill restoration? [​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
     
  2. dlane

    dlane Active User H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Search using tapatalk, pics are red x
     
  3. Ulma Doctor

    Ulma Doctor Infinitely Curious Active Member

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    Here are the red X pictures from above:

    Untitled.jpg 2.jpg
    G'Day,
    i have heard that acetone works, but i have not tried to verify.
    i would say that diesel fuel or mineral spirits would also suffice, i have used those 2 fluids
    best of luck!
    mike
     
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  4. Ropata

    Ropata New Zealand Active Member Active Member

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    Yeah they show up for me. I'll look into it when I'm home from work. Cheers.

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  5. 4gsr

    4gsr Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Best thing to do is put fresh oil like a ISO 46 oil in the one shot reservoir and start pumping oil until you see fresh oil come out at the oiling points. That means, the oil turn from a very dark color to near clear fluid like. Do this until all oiling points show clean oil. Once that's done, fill the reservoir with your flavor of way oil. It means a lot of oil waste, but is the easiest way doing so. That way, if you encounter a oil line that does not deliver oil, pull that line and replace. It is difficult to get a oil line unclogged sometimes. I have a air nozzle fitted with a fitting that adapts over to the Bijur oil line fittings. What I'll do is connect the oil line to the air nozzle and attempt to use compressed air to unclog. Just be sure to point the oil line away from you when you shoot the air to it! If nothing comes out of it, don't look at the muzzle end of the oil line. It could come out and blow your eyeball out and if the oil was to get in your blood stream, kill you. So be careful! If there are metering units, that regulate the flow of oil, in line and that's where the oil flow stops, remove and replace the metering unit. They are a hit and miss trying to clean and get them to flow oil thru once they are clogged up.
     
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  6. British Steel

    British Steel United Kingdom Active User Active Member

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    I've found that if the pipe's bends aren't too tight, a wire-wound guitar string can be quite persuasive...

    Dave H. (the other one)
     
  7. tq60

    tq60 United States Active Member Active Member

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    Also try ATF as it is thinner and very high detergent so it will clean better.

    It also shows better being red.

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  8. Silverbullet

    Silverbullet Active Member Active Member

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    Are the lines metal or plastic. I'd put some carb cleaner thru them or starting fluid either. Plastic I wouldn't use it tho. Acetone pumped thru even.
     
  9. Ropata

    Ropata New Zealand Active Member Active Member

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    Aluminium. Yeah I might fill the pump with a solvent and pump that through.

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  10. Old junk

    Old junk United States Active Member Active Member

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    Diesel or kero works for me,which ever jug is closer
     
  11. Dabbler

    Dabbler H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    On my Surface Grinder repair, I used .035 MIG wire, which just fit my plastic tubes. No amount of thinner would clean them, so mechanical was the only way I could get the crud out...
     
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  12. USNFC

    USNFC United States H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I too have used MIG wire for the heavily clogged...works quite well. I typically stick to kerosene as a solvent...I don't trust the new fangled stuff.
     
  13. Dabbler

    Dabbler H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I've found that recirculated oil in my surface grinder (versus a total loss system used in Bridgeport mills) build up something that even acetone can't cut well. Mechanical removal seems to be the only way to go.
     
  14. Ropata

    Ropata New Zealand Active Member Active Member

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    I'm wondering about these little check valves 20170728_094133.jpg 20170728_094409.jpg They really seem to restrict the flow to those areas. I guess they are meant to due to some ports being free draining and some being sandwiched between two slabs of iron. The problem is that some of them are check valves (little spring and plunger inside) and some are just restrictors with fine pin holes either end. The restrictors are proving real hard to clean. How important are they?
     
  15. Dabbler

    Dabbler H-M Supporter - Premium Content H-M Supporter-Premium

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    I'm ordering $150 Bijur flow restrictors for my surface grinder. Technically, they're not considered cleanable. I cleared 2 of the 11 in my machine, but I figured I'd just replace all of them if I have to buy 9 anyway.

    What they are there for is to even out the flow so all points get at least some of the lubricating oil. Without them, I won't operate the machine.
     
  16. Ropata

    Ropata New Zealand Active Member Active Member

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    Cheers. Yeah I'm having trouble getting air through one of them.
     
  17. 4gsr

    4gsr Global Moderator Staff Member H-M Supporter-Premium

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    Yeah, you probably have a '00' or a '000' metering or restrictor unit. Hard to get air to pass thru one that small. Best thing to do is crack the nut down stream of the restrictor and let the oil bleed out. If it doesn't, then replace it. They do get clogged up from many years of use. There is a filter built into the metering units or restrictors that get clogged up.
     

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