Chainsaw sharpening question.

I have been freehand filing mine for quite a while now. I have a saw sharpener from Northern tool but it has become easier to just throw it in the vice and do it. Practice, You'll get it.
 
I have a building center here that used to sharpen chains for $5. Now bought out, gone to $7. The worst thing I have experienced was cutting in a brush pile. Got plastic baler twine in the roller tip. No solvent dissolves, cant even burn it out. I finally picked it out with little steel picks.
 
I use an old McMulloch File sharpener and also have several File-N-Joint sharpeners which are the same basic design.
The reason I use this is because the tooth angles are exactly what you set the tool for so it is highly accurate.
It's very fast as well as I sharpen all the left side teeth first and switch over to the right side teeth. After a few sharpenings, I use a flap wheel on an angle grinder to take down the rakers a little bit. I think the Granberg
company still makes one if you want one. One can adjust the height on the gullet as well as the angles so
it is superior to hand filing. I usually have two saws ready to cut. I burn wood exclusively
so have cut a lot of firewood over the years, this year, about 25 cords.

P1040121.JPG
 
I like the Oregon file guides, basically a sheet metal plate that allows the file to protrude the correct amount. There are different versions for each file diameter; need to get the correct one for your needs.

Like this:
 
This is what I use, simple and effective.
Ī'd agree. These are worth it as they'll tidy up the depth gauge while sharpening the chain. For 20 years I'd hand file my chain and then every 5 sharpens or so I'd take the chain into the local dealer to get it evened out. The issue with this is that your local dealer is also in the business of selling chains, so they can be unneccessarily agressive when sharpening chains and will often take all teeth back to the most worn tooth, which shortens the chain life considerably. Using the file Bill recommends helps ensure you're at the right angle, filing the right amount, and making sure the gauge is filed away correctly. It doesn't require as much "skill" has hand filing, but if you're willing to take that hit to your pride you'll be rewarded.
 
This is suppose to file the tooth and raker along with keeping your angle. IMG_4400.png
I purchased one at work when they first came out and to be honest I used it once and decided to keep doing what I have been for 20+ yrs. As others have stated I use a hand file and go at it. Some don’t know but the angle is marked on the tooth top. So align your file with that line and give it a stroke.
I went to a stihl class they teach you all kinds of interesting stuff. By the time you realize you hit dirt or the wire from the chain link fence that the tree grew through. Each tooth of the chain has hit or run over the area like 10-15 times. That chain is going at a good cut so it’s best to just stay away from debris.
I can actually say that I enjoy sharpening chainsaw chains. With a new file of course. I play around with the rakers can get a nice big chip off a 3/8 chain.
 
When I had my shop I tried a bunch of different tools to sharpen chains. Ended up just doing it freehand, not difficult if you practice a little.

John
 
I used to have this little jig that clamped on to the chainsaw bar and guided a round file at the optimum angle and held the chain from moving. It only took 1 to 2 swipes with the file on each tooth and was easy to move the chain to the next tooth. I can't find it any more and when I went on to amazon to replace it, it seems there are only much more complex versions that have cranks and special cutting bits.

I don't pretend that I really understand the tooth geometry of a chain saw cutting edge but it seems that the are two things to get right. One is controlled by the diameter of the round file and so that one is hard to get wrong. the other is the angle from the plane of the bar. That does not seem very critical.

So, if you stuck with me this far, my question is: do I really even need a jig. Can I just clamp the chainsaw by the bar into a vice and go to town manually. It's not like a chain stays sharp very long anyway. I realize that chains are cheep and so I could just lean by experimentation and replace the chain if I screw it up, but why work if I can just type :).

If you think this is not going to work I am open to suggestions on in-place sharpeners or jigs that you think are worthwhile


Thanks fellow hobby machinist.
Michael
Im not a chainsaw guy so when a friend wanted to give me a sharpening jig I said why not. ok, it was a little complicated at first but really the geometry of proper cutting angles isn’t exactly simple either. But once I got the idea it was far more accurate that I would have been being a noob. It is made by Oregon the makers of saw bars. for me it’s been a winner because I was able to take the two chainsaws I had from throwing dust to spewing huge chips. Big win IMHO and not only do they throw chips they are still throwing chips and I’ve not had to go and redo them. Like I said, I’m not a chainsaw guy so I only use them once are twice a year but it’s just great to pick them up and don’t have to fiddle with them as they still cut like when I sharpened them. YMMV.
 
This is what I use, simple and effective.

^^^^THIS^^^^ This thing is the schnizzle, let me tell you! I can sharpen my saw freehand, but that Stihl gizmo also takes the tooth depth thingy down a tad. It works wonderful.
 
I used to heat on wood and had to cut a lot for my crappy old house. One time I cut clear through a steel no parking sign that was fully embedded in a big cottonwood. Didn't hurt the chain.
 
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