Chainsaw sharpening question.

Boswell

Boswell

Hobby Machinist since 2010
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
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Feb 27, 2014
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I used to have this little jig that clamped on to the chainsaw bar and guided a round file at the optimum angle and held the chain from moving. It only took 1 to 2 swipes with the file on each tooth and was easy to move the chain to the next tooth. I can't find it any more and when I went on to amazon to replace it, it seems there are only much more complex versions that have cranks and special cutting bits.

I don't pretend that I really understand the tooth geometry of a chain saw cutting edge but it seems that the are two things to get right. One is controlled by the diameter of the round file and so that one is hard to get wrong. the other is the angle from the plane of the bar. That does not seem very critical.

So, if you stuck with me this far, my question is: do I really even need a jig. Can I just clamp the chainsaw by the bar into a vice and go to town manually. It's not like a chain stays sharp very long anyway. I realize that chains are cheep and so I could just lean by experimentation and replace the chain if I screw it up, but why work if I can just type :).

If you think this is not going to work I am open to suggestions on in-place sharpeners or jigs that you think are worthwhile


Thanks fellow hobby machinist.
Michael
 
Back 100 years ago when I worked construction, I had a nice Stihl with a 30" bar. I had a very simple file holder that limited the depth of cut and had markings for angle. Worked great. As the chain wore down I'd take a flat file and take two swipes on each depth controlling part of the tooth. After lunch each day I'd take a few swipes at each tooth. I carried an extra chain since I was often working at some distance from the nearest town of any size. I also had a chain I had modified for ripping since sometimes there were logs that looked too good to burn.
Maybe the new gizmos are worth it?? But not needed.
 
If you have the right diameter file you can get it close by filing so that you have contact all the way through the tooth. Do 7 or 8 strokes per tooth, (I only push the file one way) go all the way around and then sharpen the other half of the teeth. Dremel sells a similar jig with little rod shaped rocks that fit a particular size chain. Only problem is finding the replacement rock after the sale. I have a Harbor Freight powered sharpener, looks like a miter saw Works OK if set right, can't see to set it right any more.
 
This is what I use, simple and effective.

STIHL 2-in-1 Filing Guide - Ace Hardware

The STIHL 2 in 1 Filing Guide simplifies the process of sharpening your saw chain by completing two functions at once. The ease and accuracy of this unique accessory makes it the perfect system for maintenance of your STIHL chainsaw. The STIHL 2 in 1 Filing Guide gets more done with each stroke...
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com
 
I free hand sharpen my chains. At home in the shop, I will bring the saw in and clamp the bar in my leg vise. In the field, I cut a slot in a log to hold the bar and sharpen. I have had the guides for correct angle but haven't used one for more than thirty years. I align the file with the previous edge. The angle doesn't have to be perfect. What you are looking for is rake on the top and side cutting edges. I check my edges for clearance, looking for any shiny strip indicating a rounded cutting edge.

In almost fifty years of chain sawing firewood, I have gone through dozens of chains, files, and a half dozen or more bars. The killer is hitting dirt, Worse yet, a rock. It takes only a second or two to virtually ruin a chain. For the last dozen or more years, we have been buying loads of logs which I cut into firewood. I leave the logs long enough to rain to wash any soil from dragging them out of the woods and take precautions to not contact the ground. I cut the last load of three cords without the need to sharpen. Then I cut a stump down to ground level after clearing away any soil and rock and ruined a chain in seconds.
 
Very little topsoil where I live so It is easy to brush the mostly exposed limestone when cutting down a tree or stump. Like RJ says, it only take a touch to dull the blade. Sounds like no issues with free-hand sharpening.
 
I use a file up to a certain point then just swap it out for new . I have the OP's little tool but never use it . The HF sharpener has never been used to this point either . The Huskie blades aren't cheap by any means when getting up in size . This project is on my to do list also . I know I have 100 chains that need sharpening but Jack's Small Engines is only 5 minutes away . :grin: I can spit on Ace Hardware from my place also .
 
bill stupak said:
This is what I use, simple and effective.

STIHL 2-in-1 Filing Guide - Ace Hardware

The STIHL 2 in 1 Filing Guide simplifies the process of sharpening your saw chain by completing two functions at once. The ease and accuracy of this unique accessory makes it the perfect system for maintenance of your STIHL chainsaw. The STIHL 2 in 1 Filing Guide gets more done with each stroke...
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com
Click to expand...
Huge +1. These work better than many fancier jigs. Faster than changing out a spare blade. I really can't overstate how great they are.

GsT
 
I inherited one of the 12v die grinder type sharpeners. Used it once, hated it. I bought one of the HF chain sharpeners last year. Paid for itself in the first evening. I have to say I've very pleased with it.

I'm very careful to not "ground" my saw. I stop using a chain when it's no longer producing flakes and swap it out for a fresh one. I keep 3 or 4 sharp chains in the toolbox, I'm not interested in sharpening a chain when there's wood to be cut.

I have a friend who files his chains. I sharpened the chain off his small saw. He called to tell me how great it cut. Of course, the chain he gave me to sharpen from his big saw had been run dull so long that I would have had to grind all the life out of the cutters to bring them back.
 
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