Center-Punches

Ok, so I learned a lesson from reading this. Always wear eye-protection even when working with a center-punch...

I picked up a few punches today, but have so much other work to do, I will probably get around to trying them this weekend when I have time.
 
Ironside said:
I have a Harbor Freight one. It's currently decomposing out in the woods about 40 yards outside the back door to my shop.
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Some of the cheap tools aren't made from bad steel; they have just haven't been heat treated properly.

You cna check for carbon content with a spark test. Touch the steel to a grinder. If you have highlt branched sparks, there is most likely sufficient carbon to harden. To harden, heat the business end of the tool with a torch until a magnet will no longer attract it; usually a bright red to oarnge. Let it soak in the heat for a minute or so and quench immedately in cold water or oil. When the tool has cooled down swufficiently, test the business end of the tool with a fike. It shield skate over the tool surface rather than biting in. polish the business end of the tool to remove the oxidization leaving bright steel. Again with a torch start heating the opposite end of the tool while observing the polished surface. You will see colors start to run the length of the tool, progressing from a faint yellow to a light straw to a brown to a purple. You will want the point of the tool a dark straw color. If the color bands are to close together, you shouldslow down the heating. When you reach the desired color, quench the tool to stop the process.
 
So, what I bought, and what arrived today. Also picked up some aluminum pipe to test some more lathe-work on...

center punch.jpg
 
I have to say, I also watched Mr. Pete's video on the automatic. It was rather interesting...

 
My best would be to buy a Starrett set of a combination of prick and center punches; think of the bragging rights!
 
Do you have a lathe here is my center punch i made not so long ago and it could be made a little different to mine and make it with a hss tip insert .very easy to make up if you have a it of spare material laying around .I have used it quite a bit now just with hardened tip i made myself .but if you want to use on stainless and harder material make it with tip insert out of hss 20180221_142556.jpg20180221_142559.jpg20180221_142542.jpg20180221_142551.jpg
 
RJSakowski said:
Any struck tool should have the struck end softened to avoid chipping.

I have also made mild steel"handles" by drilling a press fit socket to fit the tool. Any shock created by being struck is safely distributed to the end of working tool. I have used this method for making pin punches from drill rod and dowel pins. For 1/4" pins, I use a 1/2" bar.
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Interesting RJ, my tool box has a bunch of those in it too including carbide tips.
 
RJSakowski said:
One incident that I always remember is a case where a fellow was breaking up a concrete deck with a jack hammer. He got the moil point stuck in the concrete and as it happens, he was able to get underneath the slab and he was hammering to pop it out. A piece of the point flew off and took out his eye.
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i had a similar experience. my neighbor was busting up concrete with a hatchet. my hand got in the way. carried my finger home with me.
i was 5 at the time.
 
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