Center-Punches

Probably, but you should also have a prick punch; they have a 60 degree point instead of the 90 degree point of the center punch. You use them to make a small impression on the intersection of layout lines before enlarging it with the center punch; when the prick punch when sharp can feel the intersection of the lines as you drag it along one of the lines at an angle, you then upright it and tap it lightly with a small hammer, then look closely and if it is squarely on the intersection, tap it a bit harder, followed by the center punch. It is possible to locate a hole within a few thousandths with an accurate layout by this method.
 
The_Apprentice said:
I am wanting to be able to center-punch some steel, including some stainless steel as well down the road. Mostly for just getting a drill started into the metal.
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The most convenient approach is the springloaded autopunch (after making a prick mark, locate the point in that small dent,
and a simple hand push causes a small internal hammerblow under spring pressure). It's pocketable
and doesn't take a hammer.
This one is nice
Starret punch .jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-18C-Automatic-Heavy-Duty-Adjustable/dp/B000VDVR6W
but the Harbor Freight version isn't too bad eitherHF punch.jpg

https://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-center-punch-with-brass-handle-62141.html
 
Just out of curiosity, I have a hell of a time with my HF version deciding not to hammer. I'll likely buy a better one anyway, but I am curious to know if anyone has a thought about fixing it to work better. I found it's more reliable if I unscrew it a little, but it's still not great.
 
I have had an automatic center punch for many years, but prefer the old standby, I think it is easier to pick up the center lines, as I posted earlier.
 
An old standby is the tip on a spiral flute tap ! I don't understand the value or added usage of 5 center punches with different body diameters , it's the point that does the work . :confused 3: Buy 1 good punch and hammer away . I have many auto center punches but they are always out of reach when I need them , so I use anything hardened with a point . I guarantee your workpiece won't know the difference ! ;)
 
Also look at buying or building an optical center punch. I love mine.
Robert
 
I like the Square General, it doesn't roll. I agree only one is really necessary. I have 2 plus an auto. The auto is not as nice on round stock, I like a regular punch.
I have 2 because I use one for fine work, the point is perfect. The other is perfect too, but it is bigger and I really pound on that and am ok if it dulls. I can always sharpen it. But the small one means its always sharp and ready, while the big one means it takes a licking ...
 
mmcmdl said:
An old standby is the tip on a spiral flute tap ! I don't understand the value or added usage of 5 center punches with different body diameters , it's the point that does the work . :confused 3: Buy 1 good punch and hammer away . I have many auto center punches but they are always out of reach when I need them , so I use anything hardened with a point . I guarantee your workpiece won't know the difference ! ;)
Click to expand...
Taps are hard all the way back and could chip when hammered( might put somone,s eye out)
 
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