Can this chuck be improved?

Prussian blue might also be known as bearing blue. but in a pinch I imagine lipstick might work, any colour as long as its a solid colour. I have even seen very black moly grease used in a pinch.
 
Oops, when I mentioned an inexperienced person I was being hypothetical. But I can see that my post can read like a prejudice towards you and I apologize for that. Your reply is perfectly acceptable and your diplomacy is outstanding.

Along the lines that this is your spindle and you are considering grinding the nose taper may I ask what problem the taper is causing?
 
Tozguy said:
Oops, when I mentioned an inexperienced person I was being hypothetical. But I can see that my post can read like a prejudice towards you and I apologize for that. Your reply is perfectly acceptable and your diplomacy is outstanding.

Along the lines that this is your spindle and you are considering grinding the nose taper may I ask what problem the taper is causing?
Click to expand...
There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that you meant anything by it,but thanks for the compliment. Let's get back to making chips. No as far as I know the nose is ok,but I thought it could have been a factor for runout. I have a lot going on tomorrow, but now I want to check the taper if there is any runout. I will let you know.
 
Hi again guys!
Got my mind changed this morning, took my grand-daughter to church, then Wal-Mart, then the grocery store, back to her house then the daughter's house and finally home, all told about 70 miles driven.
Back to the "no name no marks" chuck, At the beginning I have 0.019" runout and the jaw end can be seen wobbling. There is 0.006" space between the back of the plate and the face plate on the spindle at one of the cam lock bolts, not paying attention I am not sure it is the same bolt. I will go to the shop tomorrow afternoon with a long list of things to check. The back plate is about 0.5" thick if that helps.
If I had just 0.003" run out I would be more than satisfied. Need to talk to Shars about prices etc. Hopefully I will be back tomorrow with some facts. The
Have a good day
Ray
 
Some people use oil based paint pigment that comes in tubes, can be found at art stores. Even comes in the color called Prussian Blue. Actual Prussian Blue doesn't dry, the oil based paint pigment eventually does but dries really slow, don't get acrylic. Still just as messy but at least it cleans up easier with water & soap. Much cheaper too.
 
The 1/16" taper you mentioned looks like it's just a chamfer to me. The 1/2" wide section should be your taper. I would mark the pins depths with masking tape or a sharpie then pull the pins out. Push the chuck on by hand and push it on there with the tailstock. The chuck should snuggle right in there. If you can rock it side to side the chuck doesn't match your spindle.
 
Tozguy said:
Oops, when I mentioned an inexperienced person I was being hypothetical. But I can see that my post can read like a prejudice towards you and I apologize for that. Your reply is perfectly acceptable and your diplomacy is outstanding.

Along the lines that this is your spindle and you are considering grinding the nose taper may I ask what problem the taper is causing?
Click to expand...
Hi Tozguy. The runout on the nose is only 0.000787. So the problem lies somewhere on the chuck or backplate I think.
 
Hi again Guys!!
Thanks for all the help. I finally got back to the 3 jaw chuck to day and may have made some improvement. I did rotate the pins in the chuck as well as rotated the pins in the spindle holes, got a lot of numbers but no real improvement. Yes there was a small ding on the tapered part of the spindle, took that off with an 8" file. No dings showing on the dial indicator now and no variation.
I Put the indicator on the faceplate and found some dings in the outer circumference. Also noticed a slight ridge on one of the pin holes, it was at the spot where I could insert a 0.006" feeler gage. Used the file to eliminate all of the localized high-spots then started rotating the chuck pins in the spindle and on the third test the chuck stayed on the spindle. Sometime back when I first started aligning the 4 Jaw I was advised to quit making adjustments when the chuck would require a light tap to get it loose to change. I have the same condition now with the 3 jaw. The TIR is 4" away from the chuck face is 0.014", somewhat better than the 0.019"or more when I started.
I think I can live with this for now. I plan to go back to the lipstick when I get a couple of milling projects completed.
Have a good day
Ray
 
I'm not sure if I missed it, but did you check the runout on the face of the backplate when it is mounted on the spindle? It's got to be due to either backplate mounting or if that's good, needing a skim cut to get the chuck to run true. No way a 3 jaw should be running out that much.
 
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