Buying new or used

craigsoutdoorsports

craigsoutdoorsports

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member
Joined
May 1, 2022
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Hey all. What’s the best way to buy a new knee mill?

Been looking at the grizzly Bp clone 9x49 single phase complete with dro

Also been seeing bridge ports same size used for about half price but several states away in 3 phase sometimes with dro.

I drool over the bridge ports but also don’t want a machine that is worn out since I don’t know how to scrape ways to fix any problems with accuracy.

I also don’t have 3phase and would have to buy a converter which several people have told me not to do?

I just need to upgrade from my grizzly round column mill and trying to figure out best way to do that.
 
3 phase shouldn't be a show stopper. You can either use a rotary phase converter or install a VFD. While it is true that a worn out older machine is not desirable, many of the new machines come with a fair amount of challenges from poor construction. Precision Matthews seems to be a fairly well liked source for new machines with less problems and good support. New does have the advantage of ship to your door without digging around, but you pay more. So there really isn't a simple straightforward answer to new vs used.

edited to add: I've been down both roads with both lathes and mills.
 
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As to new or used... I wanted new... and my first mill (G0704) I got new... and quickly learned that when it comes to milling machines, bigger is definitely better... so the search was on for a bigger machine. The folks here kept telling me to not rule out a used machine. So glad I listened to them. For less than a smaller new machine I was able to buy the mammoth of a machine that you will see in the thread...

Very happy with it even if I still need to do a few things to it. Because in my case, I bought out of impulse and did not check squat, lol, so I ended up with a machine that needed a few fixes. But I like projects.

So go and look at used equipment. Learn from the folks here what to look for so that you pick a good specimen... and dive right in. This is a lot of fun.
 
Oh, and trust me on this... either you buy it with it, or you add it immediately after getting it... but you WANT and NEED a Z-axis power feed (power feeder for your knee)... you really do. And a DRO... goodness what a difference that makes for a newbie like me... and mine has no functions, I have to have a calculator next to the machine... but I will upgrade mine at some point.

So, if going new or used, try to find one with DRO and as many power feeds as possible. On all axis if you can, but these can be added later.
 
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You decision for used should be based upon your ability to do a survey for how true a used mill runs. You need to be able to check spindle play and any wobble. If you are not comfortable (or equipped) to look for variations in the tenths of thousandths of an inch, then try to find a hobby-machinist in the area of the machine to check it out for you. This way, you are not driving across three states only to find out the mill is a dud.

But I understand your challenges. There are parts of the country where used mills are plentiful, and other parts where they are quite uncommon.
 
I'll take a used BP or clone over a smaller new China tool anyday . Considering most of these used machines are in prototype or maintenance environments , they are great for anyone other than NASA Jet Propulsion Lab who need .0000002 tolerances . :anyone: Do any of us on here need these tolerances ? I would think and hope not .
 
First step, decide to go three phase. Opens up a whole new world and gives you way better choices for the money.

Bridgeports are great but generally overpriced used and many would argue not superior to Taiwan clones. Alliant, Acer, Sharp, Acra, Kent, Webb, Etc Etc Etc. Lagun and Wells are Spain and US and great choices too. you may even get lucky and find one with feeds and a power draw bar. Budget 1-2K for fixing problems and replacements and watch for opportunity. New has advantages but a good machine guy who takes care of his stuff is worth paying an upcharge to. I've found that people who use their machines are often ( not always ) fair in their assessment and usually have fixed or modified whatever is needed. Dave
 
Good luck on your search. I did a quick Craig's List (www.searchtempest.com) look in your area and didn't see anything that wasn't a big drive.

+1 mmcmdl's comment about a used BP or clone over smaller new China. I bought a gently used BP 4 or 5 years ago and feel I have a much better machine (circa 1981 BP) than what's currently being imported.

My seller walked through everything on the machine; power quill feed and kick-out (often not working), back lash on the table using a dial indicator to a block on the table, quill fully extended/push back & forth with an indicator to check slop, ran the head through the full speed range in open spindle and back gear with a cutter/drill into stock, swept the table Z-surface while cranking on the X, etc. I lucked into a honest seller who had nothing to hide.

I wouldn't worry too much about the 3-phase. I run my BP on a static phase converter, means my 2-hp BP is running at 1.33 HP. I've thought about upgrading to a rotary phase converter, but have yet to have a power issue as is with the static.

Bruce
 
Mere mortals were never meant to possess the means of production. New machines are priced accordingly. The reality is often we must scour the earth over for the perfect used machine. That means either taking a risk, or arming yourself with information going in. It means making a list of acceptable models and searching for candidates. There are traps to be caught in when crossing the lines we've drawn in the sand, so be patient, but keep the real cash on hand and ready for when you do spot that perfect machine. Also check the local auction houses, not just for equipment listings but for those estate sale auction houses that my wife will no doubt be hiring to clear out my shop when I go. No, my Lagun isn't listed yet.
 
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