Building/modifying An Atlas Th42

Re using the drawer..& the underside of the cabinet tops :- Some of my ideas ... I'm right handed so if your left handed thing might need altering. ...

I found that I was better off storing my change gears as a tower on a long threaded bolt that passes through a base plate , keeping the tower in a large round cut open plastic washed out bleach container that still retains the handle part . It it sits on the lowest shelf of the lathe stand with ease & protects the delicate gear teeth . The bleach bottle is tough and makes it easy to pick the lot up in one hand . Plus I know that all the gears are there when the tube is full ..it also has a standard 1 " dia washer & finger tight nut on the top end of the long bolt to keep them all together.

I use a shelf I made for under the lathe stand top about six inches down to store all my QCT holders , both chucks and hung a paid of side by side index card steel drawers in the cabinet to hold things like a small tin of good centre points, the change gear bolts in a small tin box , extra chuck key , the three drill chucks for the lathe , Morse sleeves , fixed whole & half point center and a live centre point plus a few extras like a thin stainless steel wire to poke any crud out of the spindle/chuck threads if needed . To the right of these drawers I have a shallow tray that holds the common frequently used lathe tools such as the best lathe chuck key , the bed lock key/ spanner , a small high density rubber hammer on a steel shaft , the saddle locking nut hex socket device and a 1/2 " good condition paint brush & finally a simple 1/4 " x 4 inch long finely turned pointed bar that I can slip in a saddle chuck and point to a centre pop mark on a piece I want to set up in the four jaw chuck & finally a ring & open jaw spanner that fits the QCT holder top nut & a "T" Allen key for the Allen cap screws that hold the tool sin place in the QC tool holder .
I soon found that this was a better set up than what I'd had before ,where I was moving about and stretching all over the place to get hold of the frequently used tools .

You could add pairs of 45 Kg fully extending ball bearing runners drawer slides at numerous positions in the to make a decent set of tool drawers inside the cabinet when you can afford it .
Taking the power distribution bar out the cabinet & put a sturdy aluminium angle strip either side to protect it from accidental knocks etc.
Putting it on the side of the cabinet would be a doddle to do and give you a lot of easy access to the power to use other tools when the lathe is not in use instead of having to have the door stay open .
 
I've settled on a paint scheme.

The lathe will be hammer tone gloss black. The atlas metal labels will get a cleaning up and the red refinished. The tags and silver handles should stand out nicely against the black.

The cabinet will be hammer tone silver and the door will stay smoked black. The reversal of colours should play off nicely against the lathe itself.

I'll be getting the baldor dc motor up and running with the cycle troll first though.

:)
 
Re using the drawer..& the underside of the cabinet tops :- Some of my ideas ... I'm right handed so if your left handed thing might need altering. ...

I found that I was better off storing my change gears as a tower on a long threaded bolt that passes through a base plate , keeping the tower in a large round cut open plastic washed out bleach container that still retains the handle part . It it sits on the lowest shelf of the lathe stand with ease & protects the delicate gear teeth . The bleach bottle is tough and makes it easy to pick the lot up in one hand . Plus I know that all the gears are there when the tube is full ..it also has a standard 1 " dia washer & finger tight nut on the top end of the long bolt to keep them all together.

I use a shelf I made for under the lathe stand top about six inches down to store all my QCT holders , both chucks and hung a paid of side by side index card steel drawers in the cabinet to hold things like a small tin of good centre points, the change gear bolts in a small tin box , extra chuck key , the three drill chucks for the lathe , Morse sleeves , fixed whole & half point center and a live centre point plus a few extras like a thin stainless steel wire to poke any crud out of the spindle/chuck threads if needed . To the right of these drawers I have a shallow tray that holds the common frequently used lathe tools such as the best lathe chuck key , the bed lock key/ spanner , a small high density rubber hammer on a steel shaft , the saddle locking nut hex socket device and a 1/2 " good condition paint brush & finally a simple 1/4 " x 4 inch long finely turned pointed bar that I can slip in a saddle chuck and point to a centre pop mark on a piece I want to set up in the four jaw chuck & finally a ring & open jaw spanner that fits the QCT holder top nut & a "T" Allen key for the Allen cap screws that hold the tool sin place in the QC tool holder .
I soon found that this was a better set up than what I'd had before ,where I was moving about and stretching all over the place to get hold of the frequently used tools .

You could add pairs of 45 Kg fully extending ball bearing runners drawer slides at numerous positions in the to make a decent set of tool drawers inside the cabinet when you can afford it .
Taking the power distribution bar out the cabinet & put a sturdy aluminium angle strip either side to protect it from accidental knocks etc.
Putting it on the side of the cabinet would be a doddle to do and give you a lot of easy access to the power to use other tools when the lathe is not in use instead of having to have the door stay open .
Some good ideas in there.

My change gears are going in the slide drawer on pins I think.

Power bar stays in the cabinet. The cabinet is nice and clean on the outside and I'd be hooking and bending it on things all the time when I roll the lathe out to work on it, clean behind it, etc.I have plenty of outlets in my shop so it's fine dedicated to the just lathe and its attachments. It's nice and protected where it is and still leaves a perfect storage space for my ultrasonic cleaner.

The power switch behind the door is where I want it. I'm using it as a " master off" for everything when I walk away from the lathe and not much else. I can look across the shop and tell if the power is on or off by the lighted switch behind the smoked plexi door. It's what works for me. The light, cycletrol, etc still have thier own power/kill switches so no hassle there.

Drawers are in the plan, but for the other side of the cabinet and as budget or scrounging allows.

The layout may not be the most effeciet for everyone but i don't do a lot of work on my lathe and its not several operations when I do so things are located good enough for my use.

:)
 
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Started the dro installation:

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I did the big one first as it was going to be the most trouble.

I took a cheap caliper apart and modified the slide to fit a piece of al holding the sensor strip. Drilled and tapped two 1/4 holes in the bed and bolted it up.

The bracket to hold the head turned out to be messier than I wanted. I did one leg and when I found that it allowed the head to cock and stick I had to add the second one. Works smooth as silk now and I at least have a template to make a nicer one in the future.

It's got a 24" travel (limits of the carriage) and a .001 error when I run it from one end back to the other.

I don't use coolant, but a nice little bent al cover will protect it fine. That's why the bracket goes down and under the head and track.

Next up will be building cross slide and tail stock measures but they will be easy as I can just use the cheap calipers "as is" without making a sensor strip.

Yuri's dro and my nexus 7 tablet will pull it all together into a usable readout while I'm working.

:)

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What will you do for the x-axis dro? Here's what I did on my atlas.
 
I was actually looking at your video on you tube yesterday and will likely follow the same idea as yours.

Good thing is it is nice and hidden, I can incorporate the carriage indicator into the cross slide bracket (where you mounted it to the traveling steady rest holes) and all the siring will drop out at the same place where I can put it all in a cable chain guide.

I also like the plate instead of the "chip deflector". I'll probably "borrow" that also.

:)

I also want to put a gauge on the compound, but I'm having a little bit of a thinker on how to mount that one....

:distant:
 
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Built the arduino interface and Bluetooth module for my dro setup.

Hooked it up to a caliper and fired up the Android dro app from yuris toys.

Fired up the arduino and it took the sketch (ie:,program) just fine.

Dro program hooked up to the Bluetooth module but I wasnt getting any data.

Went back to yuris site and discovered I didn't read closely enough. The arduino version doesn't work with Chinese calipers, only Igauging/accurite scales.

So, I'm faced with either buying iguaging/accurite scales at somewhere around 100 bucks a pop (closer to 200 for the z axis after shipping and exchange) or building the launchpad version of the interface and use the Chinese based scale I've already built for my z axis and couple more "cheapies" for the other axis'.

Let's see now: 200-400 for scales or somewhere just shy of 50 bucks to build the interface......hmmmmmm....

Launchpad board is in the mail.

Lol!

:)
 
I was cruising eBay and ran across a 7" android tablet that (fromt eh description) seemed to meet Yuri's specs for running a dro.

23 bucks delivered to my door.

Grabbed it, now I have a dedicated touch tablet for the lathe.

:)
 
Mounted the Cycltrol 150 in the lathe cabinet today, started wiring the control panel for it and painted the Baldor 3/4 hp motor to get ready for mounting.
 
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