Bringing home a new to me G0752Z

[WobblyHand]

I would keep the rigging on the floor and use a roller bar or slide bar on the top corner of the step.

What is a slide bar? A roller bar is like a conveyor roller? Does the weight limit need to be greater than 350 lbs (approx load with trolley)?

 

[Flyinfool]

Slide bar is something smooth and slippery, Like the snow sled I mentioned earlier. It is just to keep the rope or cable from abrading on the sharp corner of the step, AND to protect the corner of the step which could save your life after the OWMBO checks things out.
The weight on the slide or roller will be a lot less than your 350lb load. Just how much less depends on the angles and to coefficient of friction of whatever you use.

 

[WobblyHand]

Made a platform (landing) at the end of the stairs. The platform is roughly the same height as the lathe stand. It is 37" long and 32" wide.

This platform is pretty sturdy. Can't move it, at all. Can't say it is pretty though. Not shown are the internal braces and things tying the platform to the steps. Last photo is of the lathe stand and chip pan, showing the height.

Cut up the ramp material. Have to figure out the width of the trolley, which drives the ramp spacing. The trolley has an asymmetric load, so I need to account for it.

Don't like working with wood. Darn sawdust gets everywhere, including on both sides of my glasses. At least today I remembered to wear a face mask, and ear plugs inside, that helped. Wood grading is a joke. Pretty ugly, knotty, warped, stapled stuff and it is called prime. (Prime junk.) Word inflation. Grumble, get off my lawn...

Tomorrow is time to work on the trolley and ramp.

 

[WobblyHand]

Stuff happened... So didn't get to work on this much. Three days ago, I went to the garage to see if I could use my table saw to cut the 44 degree angles for the ramp blocks. As I was turning the angle adjust crank on the saw, it was getting harder and harder to do. Then heard a crack sound. The 30 year old plastic hand crank failed. The D section gave up and the hub cracked. Not going to get another plastic wheel.

Looked around for some hand wheels and saw the cost was pretty high, higher than what I wanted to pay on a saw that I hadn't used in 15 years. Decided to make a handle out of scraps that I could find around the shop.

Design was a crank lever with a rotating handle. Hub was a piece of A36 1x1 stock cut to 1.125" long. Drill 1/2 diameter hole 5/8" deep. Drill through hole for a 10-32 screw, matching the D shaft. Put in a 1/4-20 set screw. Lever was a piece of rusty scrap 1/8" x 1", cut to 3.5" long. After the hub was complete, I welded the lever to the hub. Welds weren't pretty, but they are good enough. You are looking at version 2. Version 1 I did on my mini-lathe and had an unexpected flub up. Somehow the taper in the tailstock was not seated well enough and the drill wallowed around. Had a 0.560" hole. No good. Supposed to be 0.50" Did it over on the mill. Came out as I had expected.

Used a piece of 1/2" rod 3.5" long and single point threaded one end to 3/8-16 for a length of 5/8". At the other end, it was drilled and tapped for 1/4-20. Then made a thick washer that was 3/4" OD, and 1/4" ID.

Finally cut a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe that was just smaller in length than the distance between the lever and the washer. I present to you - scrap box hand crank.

The hand crank fit perfectly on the angle D-shaft. This fixed my saw. So I cut some wood. Cut the 44 degree (or close) pieces for the stairs. Also cut the wood for the trolley. Finally get to put somethings together tomorrow.

Now have the eye-bolts and hopefully all the hardware to proceed. Definitely fall here. Temperature is only in the 50's during the day time. (10C)

 

[WobblyHand]

Made the sled/trolley. 2x4 rails, 2x6 top cross piece, with a 2x10 bottom piece to hold the heavy end. Think I am going to put on wheels. Anything to help maneuver this thing around the doorways. Have some 5" castors I can repurpose. They came from my HF Yukon rolling toolbox. Should be ok for this use.

Cut up a 4x4 to fit across the doorways and some of the short cross pieces. Neither my Skil saw, nor my table saw has a blade big enough for a single cut. Stopped putting things together as my drill battery gave out. I had built the stairway, the 3 stage platform, and the sled all on a single charge. Can't complain about battery life. At least there was some progress!

 

[Flyinfool]

Sure looks like you are on track.

 

[WobblyHand]

Cut up some plywood to cover the tile flooring. Fit it to the basement stairs opening.

There will be a similar set up on the green door, but the bar will be against the exterior of the door. Didn't want to remove the storm door, unless actually moving the lathe. Removal is more complicated than just lifting the door. (I just lifted the exterior door and basement door off the hinge pins to do all the plywood work.)

Set up the chain. Going to be a little touchy going over the edge until the slack is taken up. I have been thinking of putting a sling around both the tailstock and the headstock. Both slings will be controlled by the come along. Intend for the light end (tailstock)to go over the edge first. The forward sling will stop the lathe before the headstock end gets on the ramp. The main sling will go around the headstock. It will also connect to the come along. Have to think of a way that the slings don't jump out of the come along hook before getting under load.

 

[WobblyHand]

Lathe has been moved from the pallet to the trolley. It wasn't that hard. Jacked up the pallet to take it off the furniture dolly. Put in miscellaneous pieces of lumber to hold up the pallet. By the time I had gotten it high enough, I had pretty much run out of scraps. Fortunately it was good enough and was able to remove the dolley. Then removed the bolts. Walked the lathe off the pallet onto the trolley. Tailstock end was easy to move. The headstock end required some grunt.

Pulled the wooden storm door in anticipation of the move. For the life of me, I thought I had removed it when I pulled the pallet onto the porch. Couldn't remember how I removed the door. Found a picture that shows I hadn't removed the door. (That's why I couldn't remember it!) After checking all the alternatives, I found that 2 of the hinge pins would move. Cut a piece of 3/32" TIG welding rod and used it as a punch to tap out the 3 pins. One of the pins had a damaged end, I'll try to massage it to shape before putting it back.

Unfortunately my buddy is out of town. Fortunately, my wife met one of our neighbors at a local grocery and she mentioned me working on moving the lathe. He claimed he'd help me out. Going to find out soon if that is true. Problem with new "help" is you don't know their level of aptitude or safety consciousness. If they are good it is great. If not, it is better going it alone.

 

[WobblyHand]

Attempted a rigging dry run. Learned that there's a difference between hooks. I had grabbing hooks. They are very useful for attaching a chain to itself. Not so useful for hooking onto another hook. Also learned that 3/8" grabbing hooks don't reliably hold to 5/16 chain. I wouldn't trust it. Guess I need to take a ride out to our local Tractor Supply to get some non-grabbing hooks. Also found I need a 3' piece of 3/8" chain, as a backup. (Not going to cut my 16' 3/8 chain for that!) The idea is to have one chain to lower, and one as a safety backup. Lower until the backup is nearly taught, then let out some more of the backup, and lower again.

I contacted my neighbor and he said he'd help. That's promising.

 

[jwmelvin]

Good work figuring out the weak points before the move. This will be so smooth and rewarding when you do it. Cheers.