Becoming hobby machinist in the near future.

davidpbest said:
Here is a link to your shaft keys.

Roll pins.

Stub-length 4mm carbide drill bit for hardened steel.

McMaster has quick and reasonably priced shipping. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Because I was trying to get this part finshed before the lathe arrives I caved in and ordered a kit of keys from Amazon, will need to grind the 16mm ones down to 15mm (actually the 16mm might fit too), the key required in this case is a 3x15.

I also got a #21 bit too, the it was not a cheap one and has specs that look, if it cannot handle the job I will get the McMasters one, it only needs to drill 2 holes. As a bonus I got a 6mm bit for free (because they shipped the wrong size bit and are not making me return it). The plan is to use plenty of cutting fluid and to not over stress the bit.

Luckily I have the roll pins that came in the kit.


The one question I am wondering it if I should drill all the way through the extendeder. The outer sleeve currently has a single hole (in two places). If I ever need to remove the pin it would be better to drill the hole all the way through the outer sleeve (and the extension shaft). That also makes it so I can verify that the hole it concentric (although a little late to fix it if I mess up) by rotating the shaft by 180 degrees and seeing if the holes line up. I am currently set up to drill the hole in the mill, Sleeve is in the vise with a v block. I used an edge finder and dro to get mill to the center of the sleeve. Inserted a bit in the open hole and aligned the mill to the bit. Installed the bit in the chuck and verified that the bit goes smoothly into the hole in the sleeve. Once the first hole it drilled I can place a rolepin in (or a drillbit while I position the next hole which is approximately 90 degrees from the first (the instructions make a big deal about NOT assuming that it is 90 and drill the shaft with an index tool. I think my way will be sufficient. Realistically speaking this is really just holding the two parts of the extended shaft together and not expected to take much force. As long as the part is not allowing uncontrolled rotation I should be good.
 
Rodneyk said:
... This is the heaviest thing I have ever had to move...
Click to expand...
Our garage has a slight slope (as most do) to prevent rain water intrusion. When I moving my newly-received 1500-lb mill around on rollers, at one point it was pointed at the door. I remember thinking, "okay, stop now... stop... STOP!" Something really heavy with little friction can be pretty intimidated.
 
Rodneyk said:
Thanks. Because I was trying to get this part finshed before the lathe arrives I caved in and ordered a kit of keys from Amazon, will need to grind the 16mm ones down to 15mm (actually the 16mm might fit too), the key required in this case is a 3x15.

I also got a #21 bit too, the it was not a cheap one and has specs that look, if it cannot handle the job I will get the McMasters one, it only needs to drill 2 holes. As a bonus I got a 6mm bit for free (because they shipped the wrong size bit and are not making me return it). The plan is to use plenty of cutting fluid and to not over stress the bit.

Luckily I have the roll pins that came in the kit.


The one question I am wondering it if I should drill all the way through the extendeder. The outer sleeve currently has a single hole (in two places). If I ever need to remove the pin it would be better to drill the hole all the way through the outer sleeve (and the extension shaft). That also makes it so I can verify that the hole it concentric (although a little late to fix it if I mess up) by rotating the shaft by 180 degrees and seeing if the holes line up. I am currently set up to drill the hole in the mill, Sleeve is in the vise with a v block. I used an edge finder and dro to get mill to the center of the sleeve. Inserted a bit in the open hole and aligned the mill to the bit. Installed the bit in the chuck and verified that the bit goes smoothly into the hole in the sleeve. Once the first hole it drilled I can place a rolepin in (or a drillbit while I position the next hole which is approximately 90 degrees from the first (the instructions make a big deal about NOT assuming that it is 90 and drill the shaft with an index tool. I think my way will be sufficient. Realistically speaking this is really just holding the two parts of the extended shaft together and not expected to take much force. As long as the part is not allowing uncontrolled rotation I should be good.
Click to expand...
Some photos might help. If the shaft you’re trying to drill is round and hardened, you will probably need to spot-drill first, otherwise your 4mm carbide drill bit will wander and probably snap in two. Do you have a carbide center drill? Something like this?
 
davidpbest said:
Some photos might help. If the shaft you’re trying to drill is round and hardened, you will probably need to spot-drill first, otherwise your 4mm carbide drill bit will wander and probably snap in two. Do you have a carbide center drill? Something like this?
Click to expand...
I have a cobalt center drill. Since there is one hole in the sleeve that is 4mm I am thinking that it should act to keep the drill in line, but I will hit it with the center drill too. If the cobalt does not scratch it I will order the carbide. I know that it handle mild steel like a hot knife through butter, but never tried it on anything harder yet.

Shown here is the disassembled shaft and sleeve. the circled part needs the hole to match the sleeve (pointed to by the arrow)
The second pic shows the assembled shaft (before drilling) Ignore the bit in the photo I was just using that to test the hole alignment while I waited for the real bit to arrive.


ahsft001.jpg
Shaft002.jpg
 
kb58 said:
Our garage has a slight slope (as most do) to prevent rain water intrusion. When I moving my newly-received 1500-lb mill around on rollers, at one point it was pointed at the door. I remember thinking, "okay, stop now... stop... STOP!" Something really heavy with little friction can be pretty intimidated.
Click to expand...
I am pretty lucky that my slab was re-poured after a plane hit my home a few year back. From what I can tell it is fairly level in the garage, there is a very slight slope in the driveway away from the house though, and the driveway slope towards the house until about 6 feet to the house, so the delivery guy has mostly a downward hill to get to the house.

Moving the mill was intimidating, and the lathe is bigger and more awkwardly shaped, I plan to take my time and call a friend or two to help.
 
This is probabaly not interesting to most people but being a new person at this I am sharing what I did. It is over kill and most experiences machinist will probabaly get a chuckle out of it.

So today I drilled the holes as follows:
Set sleeve (side of shaft without the gear) in the vice with a v block.
Used a center finder on the shaft to zero out the DRO on one side.
Used Center finder on the other side of the shaft then used the 1/2 DRO function.
Moved to 0 on the y axis. verified it was Zero visually (point of a center drill was at highest spot).
First sleeve hole (it is only on one side of sleeve) to under center point with #21 bit in the chuck.
Loosened the vise to allow me to rotate sleeve until the bit would easily go thru sleeve to un drilled other side using quill
locked everything down and made sure the drill could move without binding, then moved drill out of the way (up).
Aligned the shaft (half with the gear) so that the keyway is located in the same orientation on the shaft as the sleeve.
I don't believe this is necessary at all since the keyway on the shaft is not used and the orientation does not look important.
Clamped the shaft to the sleeve (end to end) lightly to reduce any chance of shifting, and to make sure the shaft was completely seated.
Put a 3mm Cobalt Center drill in the chuck (the next size I have was 4.5mm and the hole needs to be 4mm in the end)
Verified it would be drilling in the middle of the existing hole. Crossed my fingers that I could drill the shaft steel.
Applied 2 drops of cutting fluid in the hole.
Lowered the head to just above the hole, then made contact using slight pressure with the quill, immediately saw chips with barely any pressure. Used the Z axis to control depth with slight pressure on the quill to reduce any potential bounce.
Once the hole was clearly started I switched out for the #21 carbide bit using the same Z axis for depth and pressure on the quill to reduce bounce.
As I got close to the full depth I slowed down and gently pushed through to the other side of the sleeve.
Verified that I could rotate the shaft 180 and still get the drill bit through (woot it is symmetric).
Inserted roll pin,
Repeated required steps for the perpendicular hole.
made roll pins as flush as I could and sanded the tiny burrs out of existence.

The next step in the build require me to disassemble the Z axis handle, glad I was able to do this on the mill before doing that (in the instuctions they tell you to disassemble the Z before this, and say to to this on a drill press) because my drill press is not nearly as nice or accurate as the mill.


Shaft003.jpg
 
Opps Should NOT have put the roll pins in first, the shaft needed to go through the collar before inserting, Sigh so I had the fun of removing them and following the step correctlyh.

The next issue, the screws for step 12 of the process are not long enough (it says to reuse the original screws), but the replacement collar is much thicker and the counter syncs are not deep enough. Since the mill is now in pieces, and once you install the shaft in the collar you cannot revert (without a large effort and more parts) I will need to get longer screws :( Personally that is a better option than trying to machine an already machined part. I sent a message to PM to see what they say, but for now I am stuck until new screws arrive in a day.
 
This is a great thread... if it can be kept on-topic... please.
 
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