Base Feet for a Bridgeport

RandyM

Mr. Deliberate
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Ok Gents,
I get a lot of goofy ideas sometimes. I need to know how far out into left field I am this time. I discovered that the holes in the base of my Bridgeport mill are the perfect tap drill size for a 3/4-10 thread. My plan is to tap them out and run threaded rod down to the floor with maybe some kind of foot. Top it all off with a jam nut. Now I can do two things, level the machine and get the base up off the floor (1/2 inch) should a minor flood occur. I am kinda liking the idea. So let me have it.
 
Not a bad idea, but, it's hard to implement- and there is a commercial solution, albeit expensive.

www.zambus.com

I always rave over these Carrymaster casters. I have my SB Heavy 10 and Burke #4 on them. I plan to put the Van Norman on them. They come with stems or a bolt-on base. They are expensive as hell ($65 each), but they work great- they lift the machine easily with a wrench, and then drop it onto pads for leveling.

Best,

Nelson
 
Allthumbz link=topic=1709.msg10347#msg10347 date=1302784824 said:
Not a bad idea, but, it's hard to implement- and there is a commercial solution, albeit expensive.
Not sure what you mean, "hard to implement"?.

Allthumbz link=topic=1709.msg10347#msg10347 date=1302784824 said:
www.zambus.com

I always rave over these Carrymaster casters. I have my SB Heavy 10 and Burke #4 on them. I plan to put the Van Norman on them. They come with stems or a bolt-on base. They are expensive as hell ($65 each), but they work great- they lift the machine easily with a wrench, and then drop it onto pads for leveling.

Best,

Nelson

I have considered all sorts of otions. I really do not want the extra hieght that would be gained by these, though very nice.

Tony Wells link=topic=1709.msg10362#msg10362 date=1302788359 said:
You might have a tough time tapping all the way through the base. The cast material is not too good for that in the base.

The length of the thread is looking to be 1.25 to 1.5 long in the base. Not sure what you mean by "The cast material is not too good for that in the base." I was thinking the base is cast steel?
 
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Well, I say hard to implement because cranking on a nut to raise up a 2000 pound Bridgeport doesn't sound that easy to me. I can see myself on my knees cranking away. The Zambus casters have a larger wheel that can be turned with a wrench, but in my experience, they turn pretty easy. The 650 pound Burke mill I can raise up or down by turning the wheels on the casters with my fingers. The casters only raise the SB Heavy 10 up a couple inches (2 inches or so) max.

In all fairness, I haven't put them on the Van Norman (1800 pound) mill yet. I worry about it being top-heavy because of the heavy ram and motor on top.

Best,

Nelson
 
Randy, the material is cast iron, and typically, the quality or grade of material for machine bases is not that good; it doesn't really need to be. It simply needs to support the machine. Foreign objects have been found in cast iron. That said, don't get me wrong. I'm not slamming BP for inferior materials. In fact, if any machine bases are good castings, it will be BP.

Otherwise, you must elevate the base enough to get the tap through far enough to have a full thread.

I'm not saying not to do it, or that you can't. Just things to watch for.
 
Randy

"Great minds think alike and fools seldom differ, I'm a fool so whom are you?"

Here is how I leveled my 10 x 50 Verticle Knee mill. I ran taps down to chase the threads, inserted long bolts down from the top and pieces of Hardboard under the pads. Within a few minutes I had the mill nice and level.

First picture is of the rear leveler, second picture is the leveling bolt under the splash tray.

Walter

IMG_2348.JPG IMG_2349.JPG
 
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Allthumbz link=topic=1709.msg10469#msg10469 date=1302827831 said:
Well, I say hard to implement because cranking on a nut to raise up a 2000 pound Bridgeport doesn't sound that easy to me. I can see myself on my knees cranking away. The Zambus casters have a larger wheel that can be turned with a wrench, but in my experience, they turn pretty easy. The 650 pound Burke mill I can raise up or down by turning the wheels on the casters with my fingers. The casters only raise the SB Heavy 10 up a couple inches (2 inches or so) max.

In all fairness, I haven't put them on the Van Norman (1800 pound) mill yet. I worry about it being top-heavy because of the heavy ram and motor on top.

Best,

Nelson

Thanks Nelson, that clears it up. Just not sure I would have a need to justify the wheels. I mean I really don't see moving the machine that much or ever. It is nice to know I have good options though.
 
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Tony Wells link=topic=1709.msg10473#msg10473 date=1302830509 said:
Randy, the material is cast iron, and typically, the quality or grade of material for machine bases is not that good; it doesn't really need to be. It simply needs to support the machine. Foreign objects have been found in cast iron. That said, don't get me wrong. I'm not slamming BP for inferior materials. In fact, if any machine bases are good castings, it will be BP.

Otherwise, you must elevate the base enough to get the tap through far enough to have a full thread.

I'm not saying not to do it, or that you can't. Just things to watch for.

Thanks Tony, I hear your concerns. I have the machine tore down right now and thought now would be a good time to do it. And really the way the base is cast I only have to tap about 1-1/2 inches in the top part of the base. The rest is relieved. Thanks for the heads up. Oh, I was thinking the base casting should be of some quality as the knee ways are machined into it. ;)
 
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starlight_tools link=topic=1709.msg10474#msg10474 date=1302830520 said:
Randy

"Great minds think alike and fools seldom differ, I'm a fool so whom are you?"

Here is how I leveled my 10 x 50 Verticle Knee mill. I ran taps down to chase the threads, inserted long bolts down from the top and pieces of Hardboard under the pads. Within a few minutes I had the mill nice and level.

First picture is of the rear leveler, second picture is the leveling bolt under the splash tray.

Walter

Cool Walter, you already did it. Yep, a fool for a long time now. When you say chase the thread, you mean they were already threaded? Thank you very much for the pics. I think I will give it a try. The worst that can happen is I will have to go to a plan B.
 
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