Band saw blade welding ?

[pontiac428]

I see no need to anneal after soldering. It's a totally different application of heat compared to welding. When you use a torch, the anneal is sort of built in to the process. Welding is more like focusing sunlight with a magnifying glass, it affects a narrow part of the metal and cools quickly, leaving hardened zones. The torch puts more heat into a large, diffuse area and the work cools slowly in the air so it is more uniform and soft.

 

[MrWhoopee]

I see no need to anneal after soldering. It's a totally different application of heat compared to welding. When you use a torch, the anneal is sort of built in to the process. Welding is more like focusing sunlight with a magnifying glass, it affects a narrow part of the metal and cools quickly, leaving hardened zones. The torch puts more heat into a large, diffuse area and the work cools slowly in the air so it is more uniform and soft.

In my brief career at a saw shop, I got to weld quite a few bands. After welding and grinding, you put the band back into the welding jaws and push the anneal button until it just starts to turn red. If you heat a silver soldered joint hot enough to anneal it's going to come apart.

 

[GeneT45]

A friend of mine brazes his blades with brass filler. No annealing and they seem to work well. I've personally never had the need - I can't remember anything where I've ever wanted to break a blade to thread through the work piece and I go through them so slowly that buying a roll has never made sense in my situation.

GsT

 

[pontiac428]

Well, shoot. The buying stuff thread makes me buy stuff, and now I think I need to do some bandsaw blade joins this weekend. I have a heavy blade that came in with a crooked-azzed weld and two that came in an inch over nominal and won't fit. They have been gathering dust on my to do list.

 

[mmcmdl]

Please take pics !

 

[pontiac428]

I will now that I've obligated myself by saying it!

 

[ChazzC]

I just came across a full roll that the vertical will take . Small blade 4 pitch for wood or thick aluminum maybe . I have a jig made up and can silver solder here also . Of course I just bought new blades for it last month . .

Can silver solder, need to scarf the ends and everything needs to be CLEAN before fluxing.

Surprised in all your stuff you don’t have a scrap bandsaw with a bolted-on welder.

 

[mmcmdl]

Surprised in all your stuff you don’t have a scrap bandsaw with a bolted-on welder.

There might be one out there but I'm taking the easy way out .

 

[projectnut]

The only blade welding I’ve ever done is on a DoAll saw with the built in welder/grinder. It took less than 5 minutes to weld, grind, and anneal a blade.

I’ve tried to find a stand alone blade welder for years. I have come across a few, but the asking prices were so high I could buy a lifetime supply of blades for less.

I have found dozens of rolls of blade stock at used equipment dealers. They are usually asking about $25.00 for a full roll. Even at that price it isn’t cost effective given the asking prices for the welders.

A friend of mine regularly silver solders blades for his Ellis saws. After they cool he just does a quick grind on the joints. He also built a jig to speed up the job.

Personally I don’t have any silver solder or a torch that gets hot enough to use it. As part of a deal with the wife I don’t do any welding in the shop. I sold the welders and torches when we built the house.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

You can fix them in a jig to hold the ends together, then silver solder or braze them and clean them up on a grinder.

I haven't tried, but I'm certain they could also be fusion welded with tig and annealed with a torch afterward.

I'd really like to have a resistance welder for blades myself. Have looked plenty, but haven't been in the right place at the right time yet. The prices are all over the map. New old stock blade coils can be a bargain compared to made to order blades...

I lucked into a no name chicom unit for cheap, $60 and it was brand new in a swap shop.

I asked for a demonstration before putting up the $200 asking price and the weld button broke and was stuck on disintegrating the blade section.

Bought it for scrap on the spot and installed a new .50c button. Works great.

I try to find NOS blade stock on FBMP as you can usually find full rolls for pennies on the dollar.