I just came across a full roll that the vertical will take . Small blade 4 pitch for wood or thick aluminum maybe . I have a jig made up and can silver solder here also . Of course I just bought new blades for it last month . .New old stock blade coils can be a bargain compared to made to order blades...
Interesting, been going to TRY big welding a blade. Have been silver soldering them for some time. They usually work, occasionally they break. Interestingly from another forum, I was told you HAVE to anneal after soldering. Tried it, they broke every time, guessing the anneal weakened the silver solder joint?
Greg
It's a relief that I was able to uncoil the spiteful bastards without injury to myself or others!
I resemble this !The only problem being that you actually have to have some open floor space in the shop for this to work.......
I have some welding gauntlet-type gloves (ironic, given my above post ) that I put on, plus safety glasses, and I hold the coil away from my body and go slowly.I know what you mean, they can be like handling a basket of snakes.
One trick I learned, and I forget where, was to gentle toss the coiled blade onto the floor (tooth side up) and it usually springs open without injury or damage.
The only problem being that you actually have to have some open floor space in the shop for this to work.......
Brian
I thought it was anneal after weld. I have silver soldered my blades, and not annealed (for wood).Interesting, been going to TRY big welding a blade. Have been silver soldering them for some time. They usually work, occasionally they break. Interestingly from another forum, I was told you HAVE to anneal after soldering. Tried it, they broke every time, guessing the anneal weakened the silver solder joint?
Greg