Ball Bearing Removal

remove the balls and the inner race, now deal with the pressed in outer race with your arc welder, weld the area where the rollers use to ride, with a weld about 3/16" long . maybe do it in two places about 180 degrees apart, when it cools, the bearing race will shrink enough from the weld pulling it that it will fall out by itself. no magic, just physics. . . . . works every time. . . . .
also, it may possibly be just a light press fit with loctite holding it in place, if thats the case, some fairly extreme heat will loosen it. the welder certainly will. . .
 
Got it!

Used a punch on the inner race to tap the bearing outwards. The bearing moved easily with light taps.
Then punched out the other bearing with a socket wrench. This is what it looks like now.

IMG_0069.JPG

Why would there be a circlip THERE?!

The bearings seem to run smooth now that they are out. There are some mean looking grooves in the bore as if the bearings were not installed straight by the manufacturer. Maybe the bearings only felt rough because of poor alignment.
 
The snap ring is there because it is cheaper and easier and faster to machine the bore complete from one side and groove it than to bore to a shoulder and then either back bore it with another tool, or flip it around and align it so that the two bores run together.

Also possible is that the thickness would not allow for a beefy shoulder, so this keeps the OA thickness down.
 
Tozguy said:
Got it!

Used a punch on the inner race to tap the bearing outwards. The bearing moved easily with light taps.
Then punched out the other bearing with a socket wrench. This is what it looks like now.

View attachment 141701

Why would there be a circlip THERE?!

The bearings seem to run smooth now that they are out. There are some mean looking grooves in the bore as if the bearings were not installed straight by the manufacturer. Maybe the bearings only felt rough because of poor alignment.
Click to expand...
The circlip keeps the bearings from walking out of the gear. Two could have been used on the outside but that would take more space. I am surprised that the manufacturer didn't just machine an internal shoulder though. It would have been easier than cutting the groove for the circlip. Maybe they got a deal on pre-bored gears.
 
Also, bore alignment would be critical on such a large gear with two bearings. They may even sell matched bearings for this type of application. Must be more precise to bore straight through than to bore from each side and get them concentric as Tony mentioned. Wouldn't be surprised if the gear blank was bored first then the bore used as the register for the rest of the machining. Snap ring only there to limit bearing movement in service.

Still, I'd think that more care would have gone into installing the bearings.

PS: It just occurred to me that the snap ring is to hold the bearing in place when pressing in the arbor.
 
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Martin W said:
The bread trick works for pilot bearings on a clutch assembly too. Grease works also but messier:D
Cheers
Martin
Click to expand...
I've used grease but never considered bread. I can just imagine the first guy to try it - eating lunch contemplating on how to remove the stubborn pilot bearing. Look at bearing, look at sandwich, look at bearing...!!:p
 
Groundhog said:
I can just imagine the first guy to try it - eating lunch contemplating on how to remove the stubborn pilot bearing. Look at bearing, look at sandwich, look at bearing...!!
Click to expand...

hmmmm......I wonder if peanut butter would work?
-brino
 
The Machinery's Handbook says to use lard. :)

Here is a picture of the marks left in the bore from starting the bearings in crooked. Gotta figure out what to do about that.

IMG_0071.JPG
 
Just bore you a slight counter bore, just enough to remove damage as well as not too deep. Polish a little with emery. And you are ready to go back together. I wouldn't put the old bearings back in, get you two new ones, even if they feel good. Ken
 
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