Another lathe painting and parts question

[kvt]

Ok, have my lathe all in pieces and most of the old paint and rust removed. It all started with needing to remove the spindle to replace old leaking seals, then I found some loose paint with rust pockets under it.
so the whole lathe is in pieces and getting full clean new bearings, seals etc. But have a few questions.
first I have found that it almost seems like they had coated the thing with some kind of filler to smooth it out to look nicer cannot tell if it was original or not but with what seems like at least about 7 diff coats of paint it may be just paint. Now question, should I just paint is and leave the rough text of the casting, grind marks etc, or is there something that I cold coat it with to smooth it out first. Figure if I leave it rough it will catch and hold more debris and oil etc which do not want. But what should be used to smooth it out.
second is that the Paper seals on the spindle bearing covers are shot, but have not found any to replace them. looking at them the thickness will not affect the bearings but could affect where the seal sits on shafts and such, but that could be good as it would move the seal off the old wear spots on the shaft and collars. So can I use a good gasket sealer to replace them or do I need to find some gasket material and make some close to the original thickness.

 

[Bob Korves]

You can use automotive body filler putty to fill the pores and imperfections on your lathe. It takes quite of bit of work to get it smooth and fill all the pinholes and low spots, and to keep the surfaces from becoming wavy. If you have auto body experience, it can be done fairly quickly and efficiently. I assume you do not have that experience, or you would not be asking. Anyway, for a beginner it takes lots of time to get it looking nicer than just putting multiple coats of paint over the raw metal.

Sealers like "gasket eliminator" will work well for replacing the paper gaskets. Use the anaerobic type, not the silicone type.

 

[TakeDeadAim]

In an effort to maintain the same position for the covers and perhaps the pre-load on the bearings I would suggest replacing the paper gaskets with new material, oil them before installing and use no sealant on them. Your local auto parts store or McMaster Carr will have the material.

 

[dave9]

Ok, have my lathe all in pieces and most of the old paint and rust removed. It all started with needing to remove the spindle to replace old leaking seals, then I found some loose paint with rust pockets under it.
so the whole lathe is in pieces and getting full clean new bearings, seals etc. But have a few questions.
first I have found that it almost seems like they had coated the thing with some kind of filler to smooth it out to look nicer cannot tell if it was original or not but with what seems like at least about 7 diff coats of paint it may be just paint. Now question, should I just paint is and leave the rough text of the casting, grind marks etc, or is there something that I cold coat it with to smooth it out first. Figure if I leave it rough it will catch and hold more debris and oil etc which do not want. But what should be used to smooth it out.
.

HI Ken,

I'm new to the forum, and thought I might be able to offer some advice to someone else for a change. I've restored several old cast iron woodworking and machine tools, and I believe they used to use asphalt mixed with something else, and probably a little lead, to fill the casting craters and blemishes.

When painting cast iron, surface prep is your friend. Sand blasting is best for surface prep, but obviously not the ways or other precision surfaces. Chemical cleaners and strippers are fine to remove the paint, but apparently, and I just learned this, thinners and even acetone will leave a "mono-layer" on the surface that will interfere with adhesion. If you can't sand blast before painting, scrub the hell out of it with a wire brush. You want to paint it right after wire brushing. If you wait a day, you should wire brush it again.

Then gob some paint on. No primer, just paint. Rustoleum metal paint is pretty good. I mean gob. As much as you can get on there without it running. The point here is to fill the larger craters. Not the deep ones, just the large ones. I don't use primer because at some point, I'm going to drop something on the machine. A wrench, cutting tool, something, and the paint will chip off exposing the primer. If you just use paint, it'll just dent the surface. I've done it both ways, and I don't use primer anymore.

After the first coat is cured, I hit it with some 220 or 400 grit sandpaper to see the low spots better. Then you'll have to make a judgement call. If the surface is really bad, then I'll use some Spotting and Glazing Putty. You can get this in a tube at Napa or another auto parts store. It's a little softer than Bondo, so it's easier to sand. Then again, I've only used Bondo a few times, and I might not have mixed it right. But you can get the spotting putty in a tube for like 7 or 8 bucks. Use a spatula to spread that on the larger holes, then after it cures, you can sand it and then gob some more paint on.

Then you need to decide how smooth you want it. I usually leave the base castings a little rough. No huge craters or holes, but it still looks like cast iron Headstock and tailstocks I like as smooth as I can get them. So I'll keep painting and sanding between coats till I get a nice even surface. When the surface is about as even as it's going to get, I'll wet sand it until its totally smooth, then spray the last coat on with a spray can. The results can be automotive.

Or, you know, just paint it and get it back up and running. Depends on what you're looking for.

I can clarify any of the above if you need me to.

Also, now that I think about it, I went to get some oil based paint for the house this summer and they said they no longer make it. VOC's and whatnot. Probably any Rustoleum metal paint would be fine though.

 

[kvt]

Ok, I have gotten most of the paint off and found that I an even grind down a few spots where there is a big bump in the casting. Like pimple sticking out. That way it is somewhat smoother and not catching my fingers on them. A few spots I may want clean up more but my little grinder quit and since it was still under warranty I took it in, Did not realize DeWalt and PorterCable were now the same company. But they said it would be a week before I get it back, Thus I will have some free time while waiting. Question: ?? does any one have a good way to pull those little brads that hold plates on. All of the things need to come of or I have to tape over them, And clean around them, But that will not let me fix any corrosion or anything under them..
Ken

 

[f350ca]

I concur with Dave, thinners will not remove all the surface oil. A water based cleaner such as Spray 9 or Superclean followed by rinsing with water is far more effective. A drop of water on the clean surface is the test I use, if it beads there is oil and the paint won't adhere, if the water drop flows out to a thin layer your good to go.

Greg

 

[dave9]

...does any one have a good way to pull those little brads that hold plates on. All of the things need to come of or I have to tape over them, And clean around them, But that will not let me fix any corrosion or anything under them..
Ken

Those little brads are probably drive screws. If the plate is on a thin casting, ( thin is sort of relative here ) look on the other side, you may get lucky and there are some thru holes and you can punch them out. If they're in a blind hole, I will get a small screwdriver and gently tap this under the plate at the corner where the drive screw is, and continue until the screwdriver tip is under the drive screw, then try to pry it up a bit. This will probably damage the plate a little, but I've found no other way of getting them out, and if you're careful, the damage will be minimal. Once you pry it up a little, you can use a pair of side-cutting pliers to pry it up the rest of the way. I have some thin plastic sheet that I put under and around the bottom of the drive screw and on top of the plate to protect it while prying it up with the side cutters.

I've had varying results with this depending on how tight the drive screw is, but if you really want the plate off, and there aren't any thru holes, it's the only way I've come up with to get them out. Good Luck!

 

[kvt]

Well I got them all off, They were all blind holes. Found a pair of nice fine German flat cutters that I got after my father-in-law passed. They worked to grab and work under the edge of the drive screws, to the point I could get under them good and pull them out without much damage to the plates. Problem is the plates are so faded that they are hard to read, Any one know of a way to redo plates, These look almost like they were printed on a laser printer with the toner running out. The main two are the for the quick change gear box /speed and which hole is which. Have three others, but they are small to designate threading etc , then the name plate for the company (which is actually the one in best shape). Would take a picture of them but nor sure if it will come out. May try when I get in tonight.

 

[sanddan]

Best product to prep bare steel is "wax and grease remover". Wipe on wet and use clean lint free paper towel to wipe dry.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/kle...tM6YsCuv8iuIXv9rm_4KGVeebPJpl_xwLxxoCH-nw_wcB

I use this filler.



http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/evercoat-rage-premium-lightweight-filler-106-p-10284.aspx

I get the quart cans

Another option, and for a lathe or mill might be the best, is to spray several coats of a high build primer. It's like spraying lightweight filler with a paint gun. You need to have at least a 2.0 nozzle in the gun, you can get these at HF for not a lot of money. It will fill a lot of small imperfections and evens up a less than perfect filler job. Also easy to sand too.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/eve...n_5z4nvkp9FY1cYDNw21YRRpSDgLAYnOiNRoC1d_w_wcB

I've gotten an off brand version in quart sizes at my local auto paint supplier for less.

 

[tq60]

If there is texture to plate then real thin paint then wipe paint off of high spots.

The old way was acid etch to remove material like making circuit boards then filling low spot with paint.

Re did out L&S and came out okay but a royal pain.

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