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Another diamond lapper
- Thread starter rabler
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2021
- Messages
- 3,146
Table is mounted on the pivots. VFD mounted.
Still need to make the bracket arms under the table that hold it at various angles. My design calls for spring pins with holes for every 0, 5, 10, 15, 20 degrees, and a slide lock for arbitrary angles.
Then I need to broach the hub. Blind hole so a standard broach won’t work, will have to make a spindle mounted broach.
Decided this will ultimately be free standing, so a stand will get fabbed. Back to the clinic this week so wont be able to make progress for a whike.
Still need to make the bracket arms under the table that hold it at various angles. My design calls for spring pins with holes for every 0, 5, 10, 15, 20 degrees, and a slide lock for arbitrary angles.
Then I need to broach the hub. Blind hole so a standard broach won’t work, will have to make a spindle mounted broach.
Decided this will ultimately be free standing, so a stand will get fabbed. Back to the clinic this week so wont be able to make progress for a whike.
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2021
- Messages
- 3,146
Got back to working on this today. Made the two arms for the table. Interesting rotary table work. Had to use a fixture plate to get the needed radius on the 6" rotary. Inside of these is 6" diameter, outside is 9". I started by cutting the inside and outside curve rotating the table. Then locked it down and made a pass a cross the top which references to the table bottom. I had all the hole positions calculated for the DRO, so I drilled those with the mill table, including end holes for the plunge slot. Then back to turning the rotary table. I used a 1/4" ball nose end mill, which worked well for this. The rotary table has a lot of backlash, so light cuts, and using a hand to pre-load the rotary table was necessary.
The slot is for a clamp bolt to pass through. The row of pins is for indexing on 5 degree increments. The solitary larger hole is for a cross-brace between the two arms.
The surface finish on these two pieces of metal is horrid, cut from a piece on the scrap pile, must of been playing with face mills and getting chatter? But I'm happy I got these done without any real mistakes.
The slot is for a clamp bolt to pass through. The row of pins is for indexing on 5 degree increments. The solitary larger hole is for a cross-brace between the two arms.
The surface finish on these two pieces of metal is horrid, cut from a piece on the scrap pile, must of been playing with face mills and getting chatter? But I'm happy I got these done without any real mistakes.
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- Joined
- Feb 25, 2021
- Messages
- 3,146
The table mechanism is done except for some fine tuning/cleanup.
I got carried away with the design, I have both pins (the small knurled spring pin) at 5 degree increments, and a friction clamp for arbitrary table angles.
Next up is a setscrew to hold the hub to the motor shaft. It is a tight enough fit that I’ve been able to test run without it, but if it starts to slip it’ll wear.
Then a post/base as I would like this to be free standing rather than benchtop.
I got carried away with the design, I have both pins (the small knurled spring pin) at 5 degree increments, and a friction clamp for arbitrary table angles.
Next up is a setscrew to hold the hub to the motor shaft. It is a tight enough fit that I’ve been able to test run without it, but if it starts to slip it’ll wear.
Then a post/base as I would like this to be free standing rather than benchtop.
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2021
- Messages
- 3,146
Getting closer to done. Still needs some final cleanup, and painting.
Stand made from misc stock on hand. Hex base is 1 1/4" x 1/8" A36 flats, cut to 12" sides (which also gives a 12" radius at the corners). Angled them in a bit from straight vertical by about 15 degrees for cosmetic reasons, and maybe a little kinder on stubbing toes. Three of the hex corners have pieces welded to the center tube, threw some 12 ga fence wire in there, and used some leftover masonry from a bathroom tiling project to fill it. Gives a nice heavy base. I put a little body putty on there to fill some pinholes and rough spots.
As you can see the table flips back to make swapping disks trivial. Spring pins secure it in place when in use. It wasn't an issue on the bench, but now on the stand it really needs a stop to match the spring pin locking position. Probably need to add a bolt off one side to hang unused discs on. Also you might notice there is a clamp on the back side holding it on to the base. UPS just delivered my McMaster order with the longer bolts needed to secure the machine to the stand.
Per @Janderso posts, I may want a tray under the wheel to help with dripping.
Stand made from misc stock on hand. Hex base is 1 1/4" x 1/8" A36 flats, cut to 12" sides (which also gives a 12" radius at the corners). Angled them in a bit from straight vertical by about 15 degrees for cosmetic reasons, and maybe a little kinder on stubbing toes. Three of the hex corners have pieces welded to the center tube, threw some 12 ga fence wire in there, and used some leftover masonry from a bathroom tiling project to fill it. Gives a nice heavy base. I put a little body putty on there to fill some pinholes and rough spots.
As you can see the table flips back to make swapping disks trivial. Spring pins secure it in place when in use. It wasn't an issue on the bench, but now on the stand it really needs a stop to match the spring pin locking position. Probably need to add a bolt off one side to hang unused discs on. Also you might notice there is a clamp on the back side holding it on to the base. UPS just delivered my McMaster order with the longer bolts needed to secure the machine to the stand.
Per @Janderso posts, I may want a tray under the wheel to help with dripping.
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