Aloris BXA-19 knurling tool

Did you overdo the “depth of cut”? That is, I wonder how it would work out if you just started out with a very light pass.

When I do knurling, I never do a deep “form depth”. It is amazing that the knurling lines always align up with themselves on subsequent passes.
Yeah. I put a good amount of pressure on it. When I get new knurls I will try a light pass first.
 
Why not use this ??????
I was for the longest time waiting for a used Eagle Rock scissor knurling tool. I gave up and went this route assuming it was just as good. I’m not yet convinced it isn’t good. Probably just my lack of knurling knowledge.

However… I wish I would had just gone the Eagle Rock knurling tool route. Heck, maybe my Chinese made Amazon scissor tool would work on my Clausing 13”. I just didn’t like it because you have to remove micro C clips to change knurls.
 
I just didn’t like it because you have to remove micro C clips to change knurls.
There are easy ways around having to do this .

As far as the Eagle Rocks , yes , they are great . Any scissor knurl is better than a push type knurl or a fixed position as the Aloris you have .
 
Drill, and tap for a set screw on your scissor knurler, and Eagle Rock has carbide shafts for the knurl tool. I could not find it, but if you call them you can find out. The ace knurler darkzero turned me on to that.
 
Drill, and tap for a set screw on your scissor knurler, and Eagle Rock has carbide shafts for the knurl tool. I could not find it, but if you call them you can find out. The ace knurler Darkzero turned me on to that.
Yep , plenty of ways to improve things . A simple shoulder bolt in place of these C clip shafts is what I do in at work . ;)
 
I use a Dorian push knurler. Not quite the same, but I can't imagine what I'd do differently with a BXA-19.

I just let my knurler 'float' - that is, I don't tighten the toolpost. I have the height adjustment set a bit low and I just lift it a little and let the workpiece hold it to center. Works great for me.

I also like to hit the work at a slight angle. Since I start cutting toward the headstock, I tip it just a little in that direction, but it really doesn't matter (I've done it both ways when the tailstock ram was too close) - just so it's tipped a little one way or another. The only disadvantage to doing so is that you will have partial knurls at the beginning and end. I just leave allowance to cut it off or turn it down and it's never been an issue for me.

Good luck!

GsT
 
What’s my most likely problem here?
Earl.... would be my guess.
Sloppy, gloppy oil.
Every picture is blow-dry clean and I have never moved metal, nor seen it effectively moved, without plenty of oil. Knurling is no exception. Like dipped in oil.
New carbide tooling, sure, can be run dry or aqueous mist. But for metal on metal, something's gonna get oily, or it's not gonna work for long.
 
Whenever I knurl, it's a messy stinky affair. Mostly from the copious quantities of sulfur based cutting oil which gets all over everything. All the photos show rather dry looking metal. Can't tell if you cleaned things up for the pics, or things were run dry. To me, the pin looks like it ran out of lubrication and maybe stalled or seized. I found that I needed to lube the pins in use, so there was a lot going on while knurling. As I said earlier, the sound of knurling changed ever so slightly as the pin lube depleted. A drop of machine oil on both sides of each pin (four spots) quieted that sound.

My pins are made from HSS and lubed every time it is used. Once used, the wheels and pins are removed, cleaned, oiled, and reassembled. My pins show a faintest of marking of wear optically, but nothing that could be detected by a fingernail or otherwise.

I made a scissors type knurler from plans on HM. Was a fun project, because I had no idea what I was doing, but persevered in making the tool. Came out far better than expected and I learned quite a bit about making precise parts to make a tool.
 
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