Acetone vs Isopropyl Alcohol

Gasoline, while cheap and effective also contains quite a few known carcinogens, like benzene, xylene and toluene. While we have all gotten some on us during our lives, it is good to minimize unnecessary exposure. I would not use it indoors at all and only sparingly outdoors.

IPA is flammable, but less toxic. It doesn't eat paint, nor attack most plastics, like acetone can. I only use IPA sparingly indoors simply because I'm aware of flammability, and because I don't really care for the odor. I don't use acetone much any more, simply because it evaporates so fast - even when inside plastic dispensers. The only good way to hold acetone is in a closed metal can, in my opinion.
 
I use gasoline for a degreaser outside where vapors don't get a chance to build up to an explosive concentration. It is my solvent of choice due to its lower cost and effectiveness. If you're going to pour a quart of it to soak parts, cost is an issue. Gasoline is currently $2.50 a gallon while acetone is $20/gal. and IPA is $30/gal. Diesel fuel is nearly as effective as gasoline, has a higher flash point, and is $4/gal. I just can't stand the smell of it.

In the shop, I will use lacquer thinner, acetone, or 99% IPA. I also have denatured alcohol on hand. WD40 is also an effective degreaser. It doesn't evaporate very quickly and thins the oil or grease down so it can be removed mechanically. Then I follow with acetone to wipe dry.

WD40 is also great for removing rubber based adhesives as used for labels. Spray a small amount on and wipe with a paper towel to remove. Acetone and lacquer thinner will attack paint and some plastics. IPA and denatured alcohol are more gentle. When compatibility is unknown, I will start out with the more gentle solvents and work up to the harsher ones.
 
WD40 makes me gag. Which is fine- I never buy it
"Joe Gags just went out the window"- Thief
 
Much better and safer to use non flamable solvents/cleaners like Oil Eater, I use acetone or MEK for prepping plastics for glue, such as laminated engraving stock to pin backs or magnetic backs for name tags for our voulenteers at Sturgeon's sawmill and our friends at SVHM meets (Sacramento Valley Hobby Machinists). I tried just gluing with vinyl cement, and some fell apart, I think due to handling with oily fingers or the oil used in the engraving machine spindle.
 
RJSakowski said:
I use gasoline for a degreaser outside where vapors don't get a chance to build up to an explosive concentration. It is my solvent of choice due to its lower cost and effectiveness. If you're going to pour a quart of it to soak parts, cost is an issue. Gasoline is currently $2.50 a gallon while acetone is $20/gal. and IPA is $30/gal. Diesel fuel is nearly as effective as gasoline, has a higher flash point, and is $4/gal. I just can't stand the smell of it.

In the shop, I will use lacquer thinner, acetone, or 99% IPA. I also have denatured alcohol on hand. WD40 is also an effective degreaser. It doesn't evaporate very quickly and thins the oil or grease down so it can be removed mechanically. Then I follow with acetone to wipe dry.

WD40 is also great for removing rubber based adhesives as used for labels. Spray a small amount on and wipe with a paper towel to remove. Acetone and lacquer thinner will attack paint and some plastics. IPA and denatured alcohol are more gentle. When compatibility is unknown, I will start out with the more gentle solvents and work up to the harsher ones.
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Two dollar and 50 cent per gallon gasoline???? here we pay $5,19 the last time I looked!
 
benmychree said:
Two dollar and 50 cent per gallon gasoline???? here we pay $5,19 the last time I looked!
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Yep, it came down around $.20 this past week. This is for 87 octane Regular, E85 is about $.10 less. Premium gas is around $.80 more. Diesel is around $3.65.
 
So, it looks like kerosene is a good fit for general degreasing, it's quite cheap in the UK, relatively safe and as a bonus can be used in place of WD40 as cutting fluid for aluminium.

Acetone and IPA seem to be, paint sensitivity notwithstanding, a matter of preference (or aversion).

And I learned a new abbreviation too. :grin:
 
I use Super Clean as much as possible for degreasing. Since it is water-based, a follow-up with an anti-rust is usually necessary on bare metal. No harsh chemicals or fumes, although I do continue to use gloves with it because it will take every spec of oil out of your skin if you use it long enough. The wife seems not to like that. ;)
 
I use 90% IPA for washing resin 3D prints, so I just use it for other cleaning. I found out this past week it's not so expedient for removing layout blueing, I'll probably get a bottle of acetone for that, and for glue dissolving (gluing thin brass to sacrificial aluminum for milling).

I'd be hesitant to use water-based degreasers on steel, unless I absolutely knew the material's provenance. If an assembly, my experience it's not possible to completely dry it and get all the water out of places you can't see; later, find surface rust.
 
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