A little plumbing rescue project

Reddinr

Reddinr

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So I have a broken street valve, 30 Years old, Watts Regulator Co. Can't find rebuild parts/discontinued valve. It is marked "W" 125, a 1" solder-in brass (or bronze) wedge-type gate valve. Local HW and plumbers don't seem to have compatible parts to sell (or don't care to bother looking).

The stem is broken just inside the housing, maybe 1/8" away from the packing. The stem thread is 0.30" diameter, stem is 0.335" diameter. I would rather avoid replumbing a new valve in a very tight/awkward space on copper pipe. I would need to move a water heater to have enough access (thank you contractors...). Right now, it is re-assembled without the gate in place so I have water, just no shut-off. I am on a well.

I suppose I have a few options:
Do nothing. Just shut off the pump if I have a problem. Have a beer or work on something fun.
Braze or silver solder the stem and machine off the excess solder/braze where it enters the packing.
Turn a new stem. 12 TPI Acme (counting both thread leads), 2 start, left hand, for about 1.5", smooth stem, drill/tap hole for handle. I have an Acme insert I used to turn a RH thread a while back. Maybe that is called 6 TPI?

I think the material is bronze, maybe brass.

What would you do? Braze or solder? Materials to use? I've never turned a left-hand acme thread. Tricks?

Thanks.

20230922_082654.jpg
 
That is close to what I have. No telling if the guts are same. Mine is this model I saw on ebay but one but 1" vs the 1.5" available.

Valve2.JPG
 
Is it possible that you might find another valve with a stem which would fit? I have a 1" gate valve but the threads have a lead of .2" and a pitch of 10 tpi.
 
That's the big question. The "W" valve neck seems longer. Who knows if the other one has same stem or not. Only a $35 gamble I guess.
But, I have time. Maybe I'll just keep my eye out for one for a few weeks.
 
does the stem screw into the gate, or is it all machined from one piece?
I have seen gate valves made both ways. I would think either bronze or brass would work. Especially where it is not critical because you can turn off the pump.

I've never done left hand threads but I think all you do is run the lathe in reverse and set the lead screw to run the saddle away from the chuck. The big thing would be keeping the thread dial numbers correct while doing a 2 start thread. Since you have the original for an example, grab some scrap material of some sort (cheap) and make some chips!

Don't believe the labels that say "No serviceable parts inside". Pssst....it's a lie! :)
 
Reddinr said:
That's the big question. The "W" valve neck seems longer. Who knows if the other one has same stem or not. Only a $35 gamble I guess.
But, I have time. Maybe I'll just keep my eye out for one for a few weeks.
Click to expand...
You might try a resale shop. We have several in the area that recycle old building materials. You could perhaps find one for a few $ and they might even allow you to disassemble it to check for fit.
 
piper184 said:
does the stem screw into the gate, or is it all machined from one piece?
I have seen gate valves made both ways. I would think either bronze or brass would work. Especially where it is not critical because you can turn off the pump.

I've never done left hand threads but I think all you do is run the lathe in reverse and set the lead screw to run the saddle away from the chuck. The big thing would be keeping the thread dial numbers correct while doing a 2 start thread. Since you have the original for an example, grab some scrap material of some sort (cheap) and make some chips!

Don't believe the labels that say "No serviceable parts inside". Pssst....it's a lie! :)
Click to expand...
For left hand threads, you need a reversing tumbler or some other means to insert an idle gear in the gear train. You still run the spindle forward but thread away from the headstock.
 
Duh, yeah. I should have said run the lathe in forward and the lead screw in reverse. Sometimes my fingers get ahead of my brain.
 
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