A level for the hobby shop

Remember, the goal is to install the lathe with no twist in the bed. It does not need to be perfectly level. You need the same reading at each end of the lathe. For that reason, I would not use two levels, if either is out of cal you will put twist in not take it out. For the same reason, make sure you DO NOT flip the level end for end during your leveling process.
 
What you say makes sense, but I could use one for front to back and the other for side to side without problems I suppose. Thanks for pointing that out.
 
This is just the way I do it, so take this with a grain of salt. :)

I put my Starrett level (8"), on my machined cross slide and simply run the carriage from one end of the bed to the other when leveling my lathe. This way I don't have to have four matched 1-2-3 blocks, or screw up and flip my level around moving it back and forth. Which for me, is entirely possible. :D
 
Now you are adding in tolerances on the carriage and any wear underneath the carriage and on the ways. Its easier and does not require 123 blocks and you are not as certain to do a good job. Pays your money, takes your chances. Do you feel lucky? Well, do you?
 
Where I used to work 5 years ago we had 4 high-end machines installed my the manufacturer. Not one of them used a machinist level. They all used a 4" level and the machines cut true.
 
Now you are adding in tolerances on the carriage and any wear underneath the carriage and on the ways. Its easier and does not require 123 blocks and you are not as certain to do a good job. Pays your money, takes your chances. Do you feel lucky? Well, do you?

What?

It is a comparative measurement, not an absolute one. And I'm afraid you will have to quantify your "you are not as certain to do a good job" comment. What actually constitutes a 'good job'? My machine cuts true enough for me doing all manner of things including barrel and chamber work. So what else do I need?
 
The Starrett 98 is good enough for simply leveling the lathe. It is NOT good enough for doing reconditioning of the machine, not accurate enough.
 
Where I used to work 5 years ago we had 4 high-end machines installed my the manufacturer. Not one of them used a machinist level. They all used a 4" level and the machines cut true.

As I've said many times before, the person using the tool controls the outcome more than the tool itself. Those guys installing those machines apparently knew what they were doing. ;)
 
The navy has lathes aboard ships. How do they level them?

My point is, a two collar test to determine twist is best. You can decide how accurate you need to be.
 
The two collar test can be detrimental to a lathe which has uneven wear on the bed ways. You can easily induce a "twist" in the bed of a worn lathe trying to get it to cut straight. You also have to be sure the tailstock is in alignment before doing the two collar test, too. Think about this before doing the two collar test. Results could be disastrous.
 
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