A Couple Of 1911s

That does look good, Bill. I have gone from Duracoat to Cerakote and there is a world of difference. Cerakote is harder, thinner, sprays better from my Badger airbrush, and the air-cure formula cures in less than 1/3 of the time compared to Duracoat. I'm liking the look of that 1911! Thanks for sharing. :D
 
I'd have you work your magic and hard work on my range guns any day! Very nice professional looking work!!
 
Thanks guys, appreciate the comments. :)

I will research Cerakote when I have a little time. I was told that you had to heat the parts to cure it, so never really took a look at it. What is the durability like, compared to the Duracoat?

I put a soft bead blast on the Kimber and it's back and ready for duty. I really like the way the mag funnel turned out, if I say so myself. That gap between the beavertail and frame wasn't my doing. Kimber cut that radius, I didn't. :mad: Once I get TIG capability, I will fix that. When I fit them I like a tight fit between the parts with the the top of the beavertail and frame blended at extension, and the underside blended at compression so there are no sharp edges that can cut. I also tighten the underside radius to give a higher hold position for guys like me with huge paws. :)

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I started with Duracoat for the same reason as you...not needing to cure with heat. Upon further research, I found that Cerakote makes another product line that does not require heating to cure. It is sold by Brownells as Air-Cure Cerakote. there are less colors to choose from, but I like it much better than Duracoat. As I said, the Cerakote is thinner, harder, and sprays better. It is also much more durable. When spraying, it is similar to water for thickness, but still covers well and dries to about one thou thick. The prep work is not difficult, but requires abrasive blasting (NOT bead blasting).
 
Heat cure Cerakote only requires 300 degrees so a $20 toaster oven can work for small parts. Plastic parts like AR stocks can be cured under 200. Got something bigger? That's what they make propane BBQs for. Just clean up the BBQ first. I've done Cerakote pre sandblasted and/or acetone. Both work good.
Dave
 
Did I understand you correctly in that you can do sandblasting OR acetone prior to Cerakote?
 
Yes, I've done just acetone on steel and plastic parts. Sandblasting would make those milling marks vanish but you still need to clear the oil film with acetone. I've never used the no heat Cerakote so maybe it behaves different.
 
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