8x16 lathes with 210V in their model number. Usually MX-210v or MX210v

Also Grizzly has the manuals for their machines available for download. If you go to the page for the individual machines and look at the tab for documents they have more detailed spec sheets, parts lists and manuals.
 
Model Numbers include: WBL210V, TS-210 8, WM210V, WM 210v, you get it. 210 is the common model number indication and the lathes are generally 150 to 180# and 8x14 or 8x16.

I see a lot of these Chinese lathes on eBay and even on Amazon. they typically weigh 150# or more and currently price between $850 for a basic machine with a 38mm spindle bore and a 3 jaw chuck to $1,200 for a more impressive but still possibly no-name brand with a second (4 jaw) chuck, a steady rest, and a small basic tooling kit.

I want to hear from people who have used one of these lathes or at a minimum have a personal acquaintance who has shared actual experience regarding the series of lathes.

Please in this particular thread only stories of first hand knowledge and only the 8x14 or 8x16 described above. Let us know the spindle bore is > or < 1" and your informed impressions.

Someone has to own these. Don't be shy. Share.
i have just got mx-21v. it has a 1.5"spindle bore which is nice for larger jobs.my main complaint is that the lead screw is metric. i am a 50 plus years machinist and really do not like the metric system. you have no thread dial for threading. to leave the lathe engaged all the time is a real pain. as for the machine it self it seems to be fairly stout . you wouldn't happen to know makes this lathe would you? one more thing, the feed rate is just a little heavy for some jobs.
 
i have just got mx-21v. it has a 1.5"spindle bore which is nice for larger jobs.my main complaint is that the lead screw is metric. i am a 50 plus years machinist and really do not like the metric system. you have no thread dial for threading. to leave the lathe engaged all the time is a real pain. as for the machine it self it seems to be fairly stout . you wouldn't happen to know makes this lathe would you? one more thing, the feed rate is just a little heavy for some jobs.
if you have a 3d printer you can make one fairly easily

 
I just found this thread with a search for "MX-210V" so thought I'd pipe in with a "me too".

I bought one with the 1.5" spindle bore, 2mm lead screw, and metal gears from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B099MZ64QS ) about six months ago. Mine came with 3- and 4-jaw (scroll, not independent) chucks, steady and follow rests, some carbide tooling, a cheapo QCTP, and some other cheap extras. I've added a 3-axis DRO, Clough42 ELS, better QCTP, better carbide tooling, an independent 4-jaw chuck, an ER32 collet chuck and an ER32 MT2 tailstock mount. Now that I've got it all "tuned up", I'm having some fun with it and making some good-locking parts.

I just joined Hobby Machinist and finding my way around. I'll likely buy a lifetime membership soon.
 
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I just found this thread with a search for "MX-210V" so thought I'd pipe in with a "me too".

I bought one with the 1.5" spindle more, 2mm lead screw, and metal gears from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B099MZ64QS ) about six months ago. Mine came with 3- and 4-jaw (scroll, not independent) chucks, steady and follow rests, some carbide tooling, a cheapo QCTP, and some other cheap extras. I've added a 3-axis DRO, Clough42 ELS, better QCTP, better carbide tooling, an independent 4-jaw chuck, an ER32 collet chuck and an ER32 MT2 tailstock mount. Now that I've got it all "tuned up", I'm having some fun with it and making some good-locking parts.

I just joined Hobby Machinist and finding my way around. I'll likely buy a lifetime membership soon.
If possible, share photos!! That list of modifications sounds great.

And welcome to the forum!!!

:welcome:
 
Sorry for the delay responding. I live in Daytona Beach, FL, and we got whalloped by Hurricane Ian last Thursday. We're fine and no major property damage, but my internet connection went out early Thursday and we only JUST got it back late yesterday, so I have lots of catching up to do.

I bought a cheap DRO kit from eBay for my MX-210V: https://www.ebay.com/itm/384487676170 I had to shorten one of the scales (for the Z-axis), which is quite easy to do. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing you how. If I were to buy again today, I'd go instead for one of the LCD displays. For example, I recently purchased this display (plus appropriate scales) for my PM-30MV mill that will be arriving soon: https://www.ebay.com/itm/185535141971 Having both side-by-side, the LCD just looks so much better, and it's not much more money. It also has spiffy visuals for hole circle patterns and etc, but those advantages would be wasted on a lathe.

Of course once your DRO display and scales arrive, there's a considerable amount of work to find suitable mounting points and to construct brackets so that they'll work properly, be as out-of-the-way as possible, and stay debris-free as much as possible. I'll take some pics of my setup when I get a chance and post them here. It's not perfect but a pretty good compromise, I think.

As for the Clough42 ELS setup, that was a real adventure, and I learned a lot in the process. I used my 3D printer to make a suitable bracket for the encoder to squeeze into the small hollow in the frame behind the control panel. And I printed some gears to make use of the existing change-gear arm to connect the spindle drive to the encoder, which again just barely fit but worked out well. (Once my mill arrives, I plan to use it to make steel gears as my first milling project, although the PLA printed plastic gears have been working just fine.) I can upload plans for those 3D prints too if anyone's interested.

There's no place available inside the lathe's change-gear cover to mount the servo motor, and mounting at the rear would cause significant "clearance" issues with the drive, so I mounted it in front -- similar to what James did in his prototyping of the ELS on his lathe. I used a 60T-to-10T reduction, but in hindsight, I'd change that to 4-to-1 reduction. I find that my servo has plenty of excess power available, and it'd be nice to have it run a little slower (though I've had no problem with the 6-to-1 reduction).

I was able to find a place inside the power supply area of the lathe to mount (on some standoffs) the TI microcontroller board, and added a small fan on the side and cut some exit vents in the cover panel for cooling. I mounted the power supply separately on the wall behind the lathe, with a cover to protect it from chips. Again, I'll take some pictures and upload them when I get a chance.
 
Sorry for the delay responding. I live in Daytona Beach, FL, and we got whalloped by Hurricane Ian last Thursday. We're fine and no major property damage, but my internet connection went out early Thursday and we only JUST got it back late yesterday, so I have lots of catching up to do.

Glad to know that every is ok, and getting back to normal on your side ! I saw footage in Fort Myers today , intense stuff !

My wife and I and our 3y old daughter are actually planning a trip to Florida for a few weeks in December-January in our campervan (Ocala national forest) to escape your very harsh Montreal winter.

So thanks for taking the time to answer ! I just ordered everything needed for the ELS yesterday. And of course I will be following James for the install but I am also following another guy on Youtube his channel is : Routercnc

I have a Wm210v so his lathe is bigger than mine, so I will have to adjust may things. And like you I can feel this is going to be an adventure !
I'm really interested in your setup to be honest, the MX-210V is pretty much the same lathe I have and any inspiration will be welcome.

If you can provide a download link for your .STL printed gears, I'm in !

As for he DRO I finally decided to pull the trigger on the Igaging that were on sale at Busybee tools up here in Canada.
They where really affordable , and it will have to do for the moment.

I will be following the "Mat's Workshop" youtube channel


I will also get the fancy LCD DRO with the milling machine I will order ..... soon

Thanks again for your reply, can wait to see your pictures !

Please disregard my average written English , French canadian here ....

-L
 
Sorry it took so long, but I finally got around to making some videos of my lathe DRO and ELS (and etc.) setup. Here's a link that should bring you to SIX separate videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wqaXNRgXaXCiFEot7

The first two are for the DRO: it seems that I accidentally hit the STOP button on my iPhone during the first recording as I needed three hands to do the measuring while holding the phone, so the second short video is really an extension of the first. Then the third video describes the ELS setup, extended a bit into an important extra note at the start of the 4th video. The fifth and sixth vids are just "fluff" that you can skip.

Here's a link to a directory on my Google Drive where I've uploaded all of the STLs and related design files for the 3D printed parts I've made for my lathe: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KeFVROIv2zM-9rxMguDKpmQE4eO6Bq92

As you'll see from the subdirectory names, many/most of them came from Thingiverse (I've included the Thingiverse number in the subdir name) or Printables (ditto). I've modified pretty much all of them to suit my MX-210V.

They're not very well organized, I'm afraid. But if you sort by date you should find the STLs that I used as the most recent files. For example you'll find the encoder bracket and the 33 and 56 tooth gears in the Omron rotary encoder mount subdir.

Greg
 
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Sorry it took so long, but I finally got around to making some videos of my lathe DRO and ELS (and etc.) setup. Here's a link that should bring you to SIX separate videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wqaXNRgXaXCiFEot7

The first two are for the DRO: it seems that I accidentally hit the STOP button on my iPhone during the first recording as I needed three hands to do the measuring while holding the phone, so the second short video is really an extension of the first. Then the third video describes the ELS setup, extended a bit into an important extra note at the start of the 4th video. The fifth and sixth vids are just "fluff" that you can skip.

Here's a link to a directory on my Google Drive where I've uploaded all of the STLs and related design files for the 3D printed parts I've made for my lathe: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KeFVROIv2zM-9rxMguDKpmQE4eO6Bq92

As you'll see from the subdirectory names, many/most of them came from Thingiverse (I've included the Thingiverse number in the subdir name) or Printables (ditto). I've modified pretty much all of them to suit my MX-210V.

They're not very well organized, I'm afraid. But if you sort by date you should find the STLs that I used as the most recent files. For example you'll find the encoder bracket and the 33 and 56 tooth gears in the Omron rotary encoder mount subdir.

Greg

Wow Greg, Thank you so much for these links and your impromptu videos ! That is very generous of you and very very helpful !

I love your solution to put the encoder inside the hollow space there ! I seem have the same available space in there but in my case (WM210v) the cast iron frame surrounding the spindle and enclosing the RMP display and the potentiometer is one big piece. There is no way to remove the side like you did. I only have access from the front... I'll have to figure out something else.

Also I was thinking of reusing the banjo bracket like you did. I probably wont be able to do it exactly that way, but you are confirming my initial thought ! Thanks for that !

Ill get back to you on this and i'll keep you posted ...

-L
 
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